Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

lets talk serious camber correction

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Old 03-13-09, 09:12 PM
  #16  
dallasbean
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Default camber

Originally Posted by 5sp_jzz30
what?

the more you lower the car the more camber you will have compared to stock ride height.

eccentric bolts and adjustable control arms allow you to adjust static to your liking beyond stock. if you run -2.5* static camber in the front the car will experience more camber on compression and less camber on rebound. thats because the suspension moves in an arc.

if the have equal length dual wish bone suspension then you will have relatively the same camber on compression and rebound.

most cars dont do that including the SC. we have unequal length dual wish bone suspension setup. the more you lower the car the more camber you will get. when the suspension compresses you will STILL get more camber and vise versa.

aftermarket upper or lower control arms will not change this. they can help though. all aftermarket control arms help you do is give you a greater range of camber adjustment after the car is lowered.

the only real way to restore proper suspension response and geometry is to relocate the pick up points on the car. this requires a new subframe up front and a new k-member in the front. if you lower your car by 2" from stock then theoretically you need to raise the pick-up points up about 2" in order to go back to good
Correct me if im wrong, im just not able to fallow at this time its been a long day. If i am only lowering my car 1 inch i dont have to replace the oem cambers?
Old 03-16-09, 05:15 PM
  #17  
5sp_jzz30
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Originally Posted by dallasbean
Correct me if im wrong, im just not able to fallow at this time its been a long day. If i am only lowering my car 1 inch i dont have to replace the oem cambers?
you dont replace anything. camber is a reading that is made on the suspension. camber is the angle that the wheel is sitting at. if you look at a car from the front 12 o'clock position would be 0* camber. wheel tilted to the left of the 12 o'clock position is negative camber. wheel tilted to the right of the 12 o'clock position is positive camber. camber is measured in degrees. more camber could be a good thing. it can also be a bad thing for handling. you want some camber for good handling around turns. ideally you dont want any camber when accelerating or braking. the more camber you have the less of the tire patch is contacting the road. so all those "super dope" really slammed cars you see with the wheels that look like this / \ ....thats a bad thing.

1" wont do anything and you will still be able to get your car realigned within factory spec.

if you do any hard driving you might want to consider more agressive setting then stock.

the only time you would need to replace components to correct suspension geometry is if you are ridiculously low or if you have an all out racecar and need complete and total flexibility in adjustibility
Old 03-16-09, 07:37 PM
  #18  
dallasbean
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Yes, when i used to race d.s.m i had to replace with after market camber's. But with my 400 i only want to lower it just 1 inch. Obiously you are way more skilled at the topic and about this car's. What would be your recommendation be? Just change springs? And shock's?
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