lets talk serious camber correction
02-24-09, 09:13 AM
#1
lets talk serious camber correction
I know this has been covered before but, I do not see anything on correcting the camber during compression and rebound.
My understanding is that we need aftermarket control arms or bushings to correct camber if we significantly lower our cars.
Great news..we can buy acentric control arm bushings or we can buy aftermarket control arms (uppers only)
My question is, where do we run into camber issues while the suspension is at work? on compression or on rebound?
If we replace the upper arms we would be addressing camber issues on compression, correct?
So, how come our cars dont have adjustable lower arms from the aftermarket? Is this because there is no camber issues on rebound when our cars are lowered?
Would you go with acentric bushings or adjustable arms?
My understanding is that we need aftermarket control arms or bushings to correct camber if we significantly lower our cars.
Great news..we can buy acentric control arm bushings or we can buy aftermarket control arms (uppers only)
My question is, where do we run into camber issues while the suspension is at work? on compression or on rebound?
If we replace the upper arms we would be addressing camber issues on compression, correct?
So, how come our cars dont have adjustable lower arms from the aftermarket? Is this because there is no camber issues on rebound when our cars are lowered?
Would you go with acentric bushings or adjustable arms?
02-24-09, 01:15 PM
#2
what?
the more you lower the car the more camber you will have compared to stock ride height.
eccentric bolts and adjustable control arms allow you to adjust static to your liking beyond stock. if you run -2.5* static camber in the front the car will experience more camber on compression and less camber on rebound. thats because the suspension moves in an arc.
if the have equal length dual wish bone suspension then you will have relatively the same camber on compression and rebound.
most cars dont do that including the SC. we have unequal length dual wish bone suspension setup. the more you lower the car the more camber you will get. when the suspension compresses you will STILL get more camber and vise versa.
aftermarket upper or lower control arms will not change this. they can help though. all aftermarket control arms help you do is give you a greater range of camber adjustment after the car is lowered.
the only real way to restore proper suspension response and geometry is to relocate the pick up points on the car. this requires a new subframe up front and a new k-member in the front. if you lower your car by 2" from stock then theoretically you need to raise the pick-up points up about 2" in order to go back to good
the more you lower the car the more camber you will have compared to stock ride height.
eccentric bolts and adjustable control arms allow you to adjust static to your liking beyond stock. if you run -2.5* static camber in the front the car will experience more camber on compression and less camber on rebound. thats because the suspension moves in an arc.
if the have equal length dual wish bone suspension then you will have relatively the same camber on compression and rebound.
most cars dont do that including the SC. we have unequal length dual wish bone suspension setup. the more you lower the car the more camber you will get. when the suspension compresses you will STILL get more camber and vise versa.
aftermarket upper or lower control arms will not change this. they can help though. all aftermarket control arms help you do is give you a greater range of camber adjustment after the car is lowered.
the only real way to restore proper suspension response and geometry is to relocate the pick up points on the car. this requires a new subframe up front and a new k-member in the front. if you lower your car by 2" from stock then theoretically you need to raise the pick-up points up about 2" in order to go back to good
02-26-09, 02:14 PM
#5
if you dont have "$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$" then:
1. stick with stock
2. make your own
hint: if doing option 2 make sure you have some engineering/fabrication experience.
as i stated earlier, you have to extremely lowered in order for the stock camber bolts to be ineffective. when you are very low you can still get 1* of camber. that is within spec. if you are going with "aftermarket" it is most likely for performance. why would you want to run stock alignment setting anyways.
generally i wouldnt run anything less then 1.5* of camber in the rear anyways.
1. stick with stock
2. make your own
hint: if doing option 2 make sure you have some engineering/fabrication experience.
as i stated earlier, you have to extremely lowered in order for the stock camber bolts to be ineffective. when you are very low you can still get 1* of camber. that is within spec. if you are going with "aftermarket" it is most likely for performance. why would you want to run stock alignment setting anyways.
generally i wouldnt run anything less then 1.5* of camber in the rear anyways.
02-26-09, 02:26 PM
#6
if you dont have "$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$" then:
1. stick with stock
2. make your own
hint: if doing option 2 make sure you have some engineering/fabrication experience.
as i stated earlier, you have to extremely lowered in order for the stock camber bolts to be ineffective. when you are very low you can still get 1* of camber. that is within spec. if you are going with "aftermarket" it is most likely for performance. why would you want to run stock alignment setting anyways.
generally i wouldnt run anything less then 1.5* of camber in the rear anyways.
1. stick with stock
2. make your own
hint: if doing option 2 make sure you have some engineering/fabrication experience.
as i stated earlier, you have to extremely lowered in order for the stock camber bolts to be ineffective. when you are very low you can still get 1* of camber. that is within spec. if you are going with "aftermarket" it is most likely for performance. why would you want to run stock alignment setting anyways.
generally i wouldnt run anything less then 1.5* of camber in the rear anyways.
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02-26-09, 02:51 PM
#9
Of course it will, but because you have unequal upper and lower control arm, they will vary instantly as soon as the suspension compresses. Nothing you can do except get an aftermarket control arm that's adjustable, but even then, you're still going to run into trouble. If you 'correct' the camber when the suspension is compressed, you're going to do the opposite with the rebound. Fix rebound, and you ruin compression. Without equal arms, you're dynamic camber is always going to change, and what's keeping you from getting equal length is that knuckle of yours..it's curved.
Now having equal length sounds like an ideal suspension, but many manufacturers stop using the setup for a reason: it had no gain in negative camber as the suspension compress. You want this setup if you're tracking.
Now having equal length sounds like an ideal suspension, but many manufacturers stop using the setup for a reason: it had no gain in negative camber as the suspension compress. You want this setup if you're tracking.
02-27-09, 09:51 PM
#13
I would be worried about some of those aftermarket arms. I've seen alot of those things that dont fit right or come loose after a little bit of driving. $250 seems cheep but when it falls off, not so cheep anymore for just changing your camber.
02-28-09, 04:25 PM
#15
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I have the daizen front/rear camber kit on my car with new lower control arms and pos megan coilovers... My car also isn't excessively lowered as I actually USE the damn thing... However I'm very happy, no excessive tire wear issues and everything seems to work as it should....
I'm no expert, but I figure this was atleast something to have done when lowering the car.
Does everyone else on here buy new tires every 5000 miles??? That would be costly especially running 18's or larger....plus we have crappy roads here in oregon + rain... so crappy camber isn't exactly smart or safe regardless of how "cool" it may look to have the car on the ground... Just my opinion!
I'm no expert, but I figure this was atleast something to have done when lowering the car.
Does everyone else on here buy new tires every 5000 miles??? That would be costly especially running 18's or larger....plus we have crappy roads here in oregon + rain... so crappy camber isn't exactly smart or safe regardless of how "cool" it may look to have the car on the ground... Just my opinion!