Hawk HPS Brakes
#1
Hawk HPS Brakes
Hello all, I am newbie here, to ask a few brake questions. I have a 99 GS300
I was unhappy with my brakes for a long time So I went and bought
front and rear Hawk HPS brake pads, the rest of the brake setup is stock.
I went to local mechanic/speedshop guy and had them installed. When I
got the car back I noticed that the braking only feels slightly better and
now my foot can literally go down to the floor, I did not have this before.
I went back to the shop and had the mechanic bleed the brakes, that
really did not help at all, the rotors are fairly new lexus rotors.
Thanks for any help
I was unhappy with my brakes for a long time So I went and bought
front and rear Hawk HPS brake pads, the rest of the brake setup is stock.
I went to local mechanic/speedshop guy and had them installed. When I
got the car back I noticed that the braking only feels slightly better and
now my foot can literally go down to the floor, I did not have this before.
I went back to the shop and had the mechanic bleed the brakes, that
really did not help at all, the rotors are fairly new lexus rotors.
Thanks for any help
#6
What other issues? I see the only issue posted is that your brake pedal goes down to the floor. That means that there is air in the lines and they need to be bled. The proper procedure to bleed the brakes on the GS is to have the key in the on position and than do bleeding as usual.
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#8
You turn the key to the on position to cycle the brake booster. It's a way of bleeding it, unless you get your hands on the handheld Toyota Techstream.
Once you're done with the rear, turn on your engine and run it for a min or so. If you try to bleed all 4 corners with the key in the ignition, your battery may die, at least mine did. With the pump running all the time, your battery may be taking a beating.
Once you're done with the rear, turn on your engine and run it for a min or so. If you try to bleed all 4 corners with the key in the ignition, your battery may die, at least mine did. With the pump running all the time, your battery may be taking a beating.
#10
Thanks for the replys, I spoke to the mechanic this afternoon, he said he had done
all of the above correctly. So here is the main problem. Should my brake pedal ever
hit the flood, when I stand on it? Also I am feeling very little difference in brake
(feel) with these Hawks over the stock brakes...
all of the above correctly. So here is the main problem. Should my brake pedal ever
hit the flood, when I stand on it? Also I am feeling very little difference in brake
(feel) with these Hawks over the stock brakes...
#11
My first advice would be to let your ABS pump cycle through the fluid for around 30 sec. Then start the car and bleed the brakes making sure that there is always fluid in the resevior. Check to make sure that none of your brake lines are cracked or damage. If you want to be safe, get Stainless steel lines for around $150 for all four corners. Another thing to look out for is if you notice that the actuator pump is working non stop when bleeding, turn the car off and let it rest after the pump has been running for around 5 mins. for cool down or else you're gonna burn up the pump. Also, hawk hps pads are crap. If you are using a pad that is that aggressive, look into Carbotech or performance friction pads. Those are good pads that can be used on daily street driven car and track as well.
#13
OEM and spirited driving? Never heard those two words go hand in hand before
I'd go with Akebono ProACT ceramics before going back to OEM. I had these when I had my OEM GS calipers and they were great. Brake dust were light gray in color, and they didn't seem to nearly fade as much as OEM. Plus they're $10-20 more only.
I'd go with Akebono ProACT ceramics before going back to OEM. I had these when I had my OEM GS calipers and they were great. Brake dust were light gray in color, and they didn't seem to nearly fade as much as OEM. Plus they're $10-20 more only.
#14
OEM and spirited driving? Never heard those two words go hand in hand before
I'd go with Akebono ProACT ceramics before going back to OEM. I had these when I had my OEM GS calipers and they were great. Brake dust were light gray in color, and they didn't seem to nearly fade as much as OEM. Plus they're $10-20 more only.
I'd go with Akebono ProACT ceramics before going back to OEM. I had these when I had my OEM GS calipers and they were great. Brake dust were light gray in color, and they didn't seem to nearly fade as much as OEM. Plus they're $10-20 more only.
wondering should i go get it? i really need new pads since the indicator is eating the rotor.
#15
I think I rather go OEM than Best Brakes. heh.
Take a look at your pads right now. If they still have material, and the only thing that is rubbing is the wear indicator, just bend, get rid of the indicator tab in the meantime. It should hold you in until you get the pads you want.
Take a look at your pads right now. If they still have material, and the only thing that is rubbing is the wear indicator, just bend, get rid of the indicator tab in the meantime. It should hold you in until you get the pads you want.
Last edited by GSteg; 03-01-09 at 06:03 PM.