Brake Bleeding Sequence/Brake Fluid
#2
Lexus Test Driver
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90% of the time you go FURTHEST away from the master cylinder first and you bleed it for the LONGEST time too..do it for extra cycles because it has the longest brake line travel. The furthest from our maser cylinder would be passenger rear, yes. And just go w/ the Factory Toyota Brake fluid..nothing wrong w/ that. But when you install the big brake kit that you're getting I would do a complete flush and put some good stuff in there, this is what you want,
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#5
Tech Info Resource
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If you're really serious, there's only one choice - Castrol SRF. Everything else is wannabe. Best of the cheap fluid is Ford factory brake fluid, ask anyone who tracks a car.
Great brake fluid discussion here including brand names and real world performance.
Great brake fluid discussion here including brand names and real world performance.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 03-02-09 at 02:25 AM.
#7
2IS OG
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I'd run either the Brembo or the Endless fluids. It's interesting reading about the "violent dropoff" in the SRF fluid's boiling point once it starts to absorb water (which all racing fluids do).
You'll need approximately 1500 ml (three of the small Motul bottles pictured above) for a full system flush. Best (and cheapest) place to find this stuff is teh interweb.
Javier
You'll need approximately 1500 ml (three of the small Motul bottles pictured above) for a full system flush. Best (and cheapest) place to find this stuff is teh interweb.
Javier
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#8
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I just bled the the lines in a circle about 3 times each. Wasn't sure which way to start but its quick anyway, just open the valve with a clear line and pump it into the bottom of an empty bottle until new fluid flows with not bubbles.
#12
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How many of these Toyota 12 oz fluid bottles needed for a DIY brake fluid change for a 350?
http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/par...id=95910&nbc=Y
http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/par...id=95910&nbc=Y
#14
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i am trying to bleed my is350 brakes and i installed earl's bleeder. my problem is noticing air in the line. here's what i did: i pumped the brakes a few times while engine is off and turned on ignition. then i unscrewed the one way brake bleeder valve(earl's) less than 1 turn and started pumping the brakes until the fluid changes color. once i'm done, i turned off engine and as i go to tighten the earl valve, i noticed lots of air bubbles coming out of bleeder valve.
1> should the engine be off or on to properly bleed?
i turned engine on as pedal is hard when engine is off and hardly any fluid would come out with each pedal press.
2> Where's all this air coming from? Am i missing something?
the air bubbles is only noticed as engine is off. As i'm pumping the brakes with engine on and fluid gushing out, there was no air in the tubing.
Thanks for all your input.
1> should the engine be off or on to properly bleed?
i turned engine on as pedal is hard when engine is off and hardly any fluid would come out with each pedal press.
2> Where's all this air coming from? Am i missing something?
the air bubbles is only noticed as engine is off. As i'm pumping the brakes with engine on and fluid gushing out, there was no air in the tubing.
Thanks for all your input.
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