ok i just installed all 4 tt calipers and rotors... bled the system and added brake fluid also. when i stop the brake pedal feels squishy. if im driving and before i brake completely if i pump the brakes once or twice when i stop they stop much much better. whats causing this? does anyone have this problem and if so what did you do? this is on a sc300

 

how long ago was this? when I installed mine, it took me til the second day for it to come alive...it could also result because you're only doing the fronts

 

we just got done installing them around a hour ago but i installed all 4 brakes

 

Mine are the same way right now..but I haven't bled them good enough.

You might also need to bleed the abs brake unit over near the passenger firewall.

That, or is your brake master leaking? I bought the master rebuild kit for $50, just haven't got to it yet.

Another thing if you used the stock rubber lines and reused the washers...it could be sucking some air through one of the rubber lines.

Just ideas...

 

imho, the most likely explanation is that there is still air in the system. You had no squishy pedal before the upgrade.

There is no break-in period that I know of associated with having a firm pedal. When done correctly you will believe that the hand of God has reached down and brought your car to a halt and you have some of the finest brakes ever put in a production vehicle.

 

yea ive bled the system 3 time already and i guessed there was possibly still air in the system. ima do it again tomorrow. its a lil wet here in fresno but not dangerous where i cant drive the car so ima bleed them again tomorrow. possibly just flush out all the fluid and put new fluid again. pain in the a** so far

 

yea I would bleed it again...sounds like air. Make sure you are following correct bleeding pattern.

 

so what exactly is the correct pattern, front to back?

 

Start with the furthest away from the master cylinder and work closer to it, so back to front. I would just take it to a brake shop and have them do it since they have the proper tools to bleed the most air from the system. And if anything happens you can blame them.

 

you want to start with the farthest and work your way to the closest (distance point being the master brake cylinder)

0. Person #2 will begin at rear passenger brakes (USDM)

1. You want to pump the pedal until it is stiff stiff stiff (the pedal).

2. With it still depressed person #2 will open brake line to let the air/fluid out. Your foot will drop with the pedal.

3. Repeat #2 until all that is coming out is constant flow of fluid.

3a. DO NOT LET BRAKE FLUID RES RUN OUT OF FLUID. IF IT DOES GO TO STEP 0.

4. Person # 2 will then move to Rear Drivers brakes and begin at #1 and end at #3a

5. Person # 2 will then move to Front Passenger brakes and begin at #1 and end at #3a

6. Person # 2 will then move to Front Drivers brakes and begin at #1 and end at #3a

7. Keep repeating until stiff stiff stiff (the brakes)

 

see this is what we did but im guessing there is still air so ima flush the whole system right now with my 2 buddys and hopefully it corrects the problem. i believe the master cylinder did go dry and i know thats a nono but it slipped my mine. ill let u guys know. thanks for the input

 

Fill the master and leave the cap on so it builds a ****load of pressure when you pump the brakes...

I've been using a Mityvac handpump whichs work pretty good, but pumping at the pedal creates MUCH more pressure in the system than a Mityvac handpump.

 

Try bleeding them in order. I had the same problem when I installed my LS4 calipers. There is a thread going around that explains how to properly bleed the system on our SCs. It tells you something about starting with the caliper farthest from the booster and so on..

 

Don't forget what I said earlier. It's also in the FSManual

"You might also need to bleed the abs brake unit over near the passenger firewall."

You bleed it the same way as a brake caliper.

 

If the master cylinder was dry in the process, you need to do a bench bleed the master cylinder itself. Disconnect the metal brake line that goes into the master cylinder. Get 2 tubes (front and left) and reroute it back into the reservoir and keep on pumping the pedal until there are no more bubbles coming out from the tube. Connect the brake lines back and bleed as usual.

There are websites out there that will show u how to do this. Trying to bleed air out of the master cylinder using the regular bleeding method will take forever