ABS + TRAC Finaly removed! *pics*(56K put the gun down)
11-28-10, 09:41 AM
#31
OK so I have my ABS 'assembly' so to speak removed. And I have the lines that went from that assembly to the master cylinder removed. I still need to remove the lines that actually go to the front and rear brakes and I will be ready to fun new lines.
Couple questions.
1) I seem to have another reservoir right next to the master cylinder. Any idea what that is? I see it's not in your pics, did you remove that also?
2) This is a quote from one of your posts:
Its better to go and buy the 3/16" metric lines from Autozone, they are the only stores that carry metric nuts.(already flared)
3/16 and metric used together sounds like an oxymoron to me
But is that what I need to ask for, 3/16 metric brake line? Then when you say metric nuts, are you talking about the fittings that go on the lines? And lastly, when I use a flaring tool to flare the lines, do I just use a 3/16" flaring tool, or do I need to use some kind of metric flaring tool.
3) Do you know what the thread pitch of that tee is? Problem I'm having here is the junkyard I typically go to, now charges just to go back and walk in the yard. So it might be cheaper for me to just buy a fitting in a hardware store.
Thanks again for this thread! I've never dabbled in brakes much so it's a learning experience for me.
Couple questions.
1) I seem to have another reservoir right next to the master cylinder. Any idea what that is? I see it's not in your pics, did you remove that also?
2) This is a quote from one of your posts:
Its better to go and buy the 3/16" metric lines from Autozone, they are the only stores that carry metric nuts.(already flared)
3/16 and metric used together sounds like an oxymoron to me
But is that what I need to ask for, 3/16 metric brake line? Then when you say metric nuts, are you talking about the fittings that go on the lines? And lastly, when I use a flaring tool to flare the lines, do I just use a 3/16" flaring tool, or do I need to use some kind of metric flaring tool.3) Do you know what the thread pitch of that tee is? Problem I'm having here is the junkyard I typically go to, now charges just to go back and walk in the yard. So it might be cheaper for me to just buy a fitting in a hardware store.
Thanks again for this thread! I've never dabbled in brakes much so it's a learning experience for me.
Last edited by Halon; 11-28-10 at 09:48 AM.
11-28-10, 10:25 AM
#32
OK so I have my ABS 'assembly' so to speak removed. And I have the lines that went from that assembly to the master cylinder removed. I still need to remove the lines that actually go to the front and rear brakes and I will be ready to fun new lines.
Couple questions.
1) I seem to have another reservoir right next to the master cylinder. Any idea what that is? I see it's not in your pics, did you remove that also?
2) This is a quote from one of your posts:
Its better to go and buy the 3/16" metric lines from Autozone, they are the only stores that carry metric nuts.(already flared)
3/16 and metric used together sounds like an oxymoron to me But is that what I need to ask for, 3/16 metric brake line? Then when you say metric nuts, are you talking about the fittings that go on the lines? And lastly, when I use a flaring tool to flare the lines, do I just use a 3/16" flaring tool, or do I need to use some kind of metric flaring tool.
3) Do you know what the thread pitch of that tee is? Problem I'm having here is the junkyard I typically go to, now charges just to go back and walk in the yard. So it might be cheaper for me to just buy a fitting in a hardware store.
Thanks again for this thread! I've never dabbled in brakes much so it's a learning experience for me.
Couple questions.
1) I seem to have another reservoir right next to the master cylinder. Any idea what that is? I see it's not in your pics, did you remove that also?
2) This is a quote from one of your posts:
Its better to go and buy the 3/16" metric lines from Autozone, they are the only stores that carry metric nuts.(already flared)
3/16 and metric used together sounds like an oxymoron to me
But is that what I need to ask for, 3/16 metric brake line? Then when you say metric nuts, are you talking about the fittings that go on the lines? And lastly, when I use a flaring tool to flare the lines, do I just use a 3/16" flaring tool, or do I need to use some kind of metric flaring tool.3) Do you know what the thread pitch of that tee is? Problem I'm having here is the junkyard I typically go to, now charges just to go back and walk in the yard. So it might be cheaper for me to just buy a fitting in a hardware store.
Thanks again for this thread! I've never dabbled in brakes much so it's a learning experience for me.
2)The Lines are 3/16 " thick, but they come with the metric nuts at each end. So when you go to Autozone, just tell them you need 3/16" lines with metric thread nuts. They also have the double flaring tool ,you can rent it from them. Its also standard like the 3/16 lines. Only thing that is metric is your nuts.So you use the DOUBLE flaring tool to flare your lines(dont forget to slide the nuts in first ..lol).
3) I've searched for those nuts and Tees everywhere, but they either dont exist or they are too expensive. I'm thinking almost all toyotas have the same pitch, but dont quote me on that. You can buy the line and take it with you to the junk yard ,so you can have more options.
Here's something that might help you with double flaring your lines.http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspensio...etool/ft-1.htm
Oh dont forget the brake line cutter and bender.
05-18-11, 09:38 AM
#34
Man, I'm so glad I found this thread finally.
The ABS and TRAC systems on the 92 SC300 are HORRIBLE. I've rolled through countless stop signs trying to stop from only 10-20 mph BECAUSE of the ABS. It's WAAAAAY too sensitive and overcompensative. Fact is, if you are experienced driving in wet and snow, you are definitely better off modulating brake pressure with your foot (and brain) than you are relying on a TERRIBLE ABS system like what is found in the early SC's. I've never driven some of the newer one's, so I can't comment on them. I will say that the ABS system on my 1998 Camry is just as horrible as the old SC. I've rolled through stop signs coming to a gentle stop just because I hit a bump and left the pavement for a split second. I'll pump my OWN brakes, thank you.
I'll be doing this mod on my swapped 92 SC300 in the near future. The TRAC doesn't work due to the swap (which was a free bonus of doing the swap) and neither does the ABS as a result. I've had no braking issues whatsoever driving on both wet and dry pavement since the swap, and I'm putting ~350whp to the ground. Once the ABS parts are gone, I can put a Deka ETX 18L battery in that spot, and remove the relocated battery from my trunk. The total weight reduction from replacing the 50lb optima with the 15 lb Deka, and the 40+lbs of ABS/TRAC deleted parts will be nice. Plus, my battery, even though it will only weigh 15lbs, will be inside the wheelbase, improving weight distribution. Currently, my heavy Optima yellow top is behind my rear axle, which is not so great for handling, at least in theory (the car handles awesome, but improvement is always good!)
Thanks for the writeup dude!
The ABS and TRAC systems on the 92 SC300 are HORRIBLE. I've rolled through countless stop signs trying to stop from only 10-20 mph BECAUSE of the ABS. It's WAAAAAY too sensitive and overcompensative. Fact is, if you are experienced driving in wet and snow, you are definitely better off modulating brake pressure with your foot (and brain) than you are relying on a TERRIBLE ABS system like what is found in the early SC's. I've never driven some of the newer one's, so I can't comment on them. I will say that the ABS system on my 1998 Camry is just as horrible as the old SC. I've rolled through stop signs coming to a gentle stop just because I hit a bump and left the pavement for a split second. I'll pump my OWN brakes, thank you.
I'll be doing this mod on my swapped 92 SC300 in the near future. The TRAC doesn't work due to the swap (which was a free bonus of doing the swap) and neither does the ABS as a result. I've had no braking issues whatsoever driving on both wet and dry pavement since the swap, and I'm putting ~350whp to the ground. Once the ABS parts are gone, I can put a Deka ETX 18L battery in that spot, and remove the relocated battery from my trunk. The total weight reduction from replacing the 50lb optima with the 15 lb Deka, and the 40+lbs of ABS/TRAC deleted parts will be nice. Plus, my battery, even though it will only weigh 15lbs, will be inside the wheelbase, improving weight distribution. Currently, my heavy Optima yellow top is behind my rear axle, which is not so great for handling, at least in theory (the car handles awesome, but improvement is always good!)
Thanks for the writeup dude!
Last edited by bmsc300; 05-18-11 at 09:45 AM.
05-26-11, 10:58 PM
#35
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bmsc300, Im doing the delete right now on a swapped sc4 and its kinda of a PITA. Im not trying to discourage you at all, but its frustrating. Here is the walk-though thread with pics:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ac-delete.html
However, I must add that there are, to the best of my knowledge, 4 nuts to remove before you can pull the whole contraption from the passenger side of the engine bay. 2 behind the fender liner, 1 on the upper shelf of the engine bay, and one hidden down in the abyss by the exhaust mani on the 2jz. I have yet to ge that one, which is why Im not SURE that is all. I recently snapped the heads off a 3" and a 6" extension trying to break some UCA bolts free. A sinlge 3" wont reach. Ohhhh Now that I think about it Ive still got at least one more 3". SCORE! Ill yank it in the morning and post.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ac-delete.html
However, I must add that there are, to the best of my knowledge, 4 nuts to remove before you can pull the whole contraption from the passenger side of the engine bay. 2 behind the fender liner, 1 on the upper shelf of the engine bay, and one hidden down in the abyss by the exhaust mani on the 2jz. I have yet to ge that one, which is why Im not SURE that is all. I recently snapped the heads off a 3" and a 6" extension trying to break some UCA bolts free. A sinlge 3" wont reach. Ohhhh Now that I think about it Ive still got at least one more 3". SCORE! Ill yank it in the morning and post.
05-27-11, 04:35 AM
#36
Man, I'm so glad I found this thread finally.
The ABS and TRAC systems on the 92 SC300 are HORRIBLE. I've rolled through countless stop signs trying to stop from only 10-20 mph BECAUSE of the ABS. It's WAAAAAY too sensitive and overcompensative. Fact is, if you are experienced driving in wet and snow, you are definitely better off modulating brake pressure with your foot (and brain) than you are relying on a TERRIBLE ABS system like what is found in the early SC's. I've never driven some of the newer one's, so I can't comment on them. I will say that the ABS system on my 1998 Camry is just as horrible as the old SC. I've rolled through stop signs coming to a gentle stop just because I hit a bump and left the pavement for a split second. I'll pump my OWN brakes, thank you.
I'll be doing this mod on my swapped 92 SC300 in the near future. The TRAC doesn't work due to the swap (which was a free bonus of doing the swap) and neither does the ABS as a result. I've had no braking issues whatsoever driving on both wet and dry pavement since the swap, and I'm putting ~350whp to the ground. Once the ABS parts are gone, I can put a Deka ETX 18L battery in that spot, and remove the relocated battery from my trunk. The total weight reduction from replacing the 50lb optima with the 15 lb Deka, and the 40+lbs of ABS/TRAC deleted parts will be nice. Plus, my battery, even though it will only weigh 15lbs, will be inside the wheelbase, improving weight distribution. Currently, my heavy Optima yellow top is behind my rear axle, which is not so great for handling, at least in theory (the car handles awesome, but improvement is always good!)
Thanks for the writeup dude!
The ABS and TRAC systems on the 92 SC300 are HORRIBLE. I've rolled through countless stop signs trying to stop from only 10-20 mph BECAUSE of the ABS. It's WAAAAAY too sensitive and overcompensative. Fact is, if you are experienced driving in wet and snow, you are definitely better off modulating brake pressure with your foot (and brain) than you are relying on a TERRIBLE ABS system like what is found in the early SC's. I've never driven some of the newer one's, so I can't comment on them. I will say that the ABS system on my 1998 Camry is just as horrible as the old SC. I've rolled through stop signs coming to a gentle stop just because I hit a bump and left the pavement for a split second. I'll pump my OWN brakes, thank you.
I'll be doing this mod on my swapped 92 SC300 in the near future. The TRAC doesn't work due to the swap (which was a free bonus of doing the swap) and neither does the ABS as a result. I've had no braking issues whatsoever driving on both wet and dry pavement since the swap, and I'm putting ~350whp to the ground. Once the ABS parts are gone, I can put a Deka ETX 18L battery in that spot, and remove the relocated battery from my trunk. The total weight reduction from replacing the 50lb optima with the 15 lb Deka, and the 40+lbs of ABS/TRAC deleted parts will be nice. Plus, my battery, even though it will only weigh 15lbs, will be inside the wheelbase, improving weight distribution. Currently, my heavy Optima yellow top is behind my rear axle, which is not so great for handling, at least in theory (the car handles awesome, but improvement is always good!)
Thanks for the writeup dude!
05-30-11, 08:06 PM
#38
05-30-11, 08:12 PM
#39
10.5" wide Sumitomo HTR-Z on the Lexus. Again, nope.
Grip was never a problem. The old Toyota ABS systems suck. Period. So did TRAC. TRAC was the worst traction control system I've ever experienced.
TRAC: "What, your tires are slipping?
Here, let me cut the throttle completely and leave you stranded in the intersection for an extra half second so that you might just get plowed by cross traffic.
YOU'RE WELCOME!"
It's 1000% better now without ABS and TRAC, at least with the Lexus. I may remove the ABS from my Camry as well.
05-30-11, 08:16 PM
#40
bmsc300, Im doing the delete right now on a swapped sc4 and its kinda of a PITA. Im not trying to discourage you at all, but its frustrating. Here is the walk-though thread with pics:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ac-delete.html
However, I must add that there are, to the best of my knowledge, 4 nuts to remove before you can pull the whole contraption from the passenger side of the engine bay. 2 behind the fender liner, 1 on the upper shelf of the engine bay, and one hidden down in the abyss by the exhaust mani on the 2jz. I have yet to ge that one, which is why Im not SURE that is all. I recently snapped the heads off a 3" and a 6" extension trying to break some UCA bolts free. A sinlge 3" wont reach. Ohhhh Now that I think about it Ive still got at least one more 3". SCORE! Ill yank it in the morning and post.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ac-delete.html
However, I must add that there are, to the best of my knowledge, 4 nuts to remove before you can pull the whole contraption from the passenger side of the engine bay. 2 behind the fender liner, 1 on the upper shelf of the engine bay, and one hidden down in the abyss by the exhaust mani on the 2jz. I have yet to ge that one, which is why Im not SURE that is all. I recently snapped the heads off a 3" and a 6" extension trying to break some UCA bolts free. A sinlge 3" wont reach. Ohhhh Now that I think about it Ive still got at least one more 3". SCORE! Ill yank it in the morning and post.
05-31-11, 11:21 PM
#41
New tires on the Camry, Uniroyal Tiger Paw with outstanding grip. Nope.
10.5" wide Sumitomo HTR-Z on the Lexus. Again, nope.
Grip was never a problem. The old Toyota ABS systems suck. Period. So did TRAC. TRAC was the worst traction control system I've ever experienced.
TRAC: "What, your tires are slipping?
Here, let me cut the throttle completely and leave you stranded in the intersection for an extra half second so that you might just get plowed by cross traffic.
YOU'RE WELCOME!"
It's 1000% better now without ABS and TRAC, at least with the Lexus. I may remove the ABS from my Camry as well.
10.5" wide Sumitomo HTR-Z on the Lexus. Again, nope.
Grip was never a problem. The old Toyota ABS systems suck. Period. So did TRAC. TRAC was the worst traction control system I've ever experienced.
TRAC: "What, your tires are slipping?
Here, let me cut the throttle completely and leave you stranded in the intersection for an extra half second so that you might just get plowed by cross traffic.
YOU'RE WELCOME!"
It's 1000% better now without ABS and TRAC, at least with the Lexus. I may remove the ABS from my Camry as well.
06-06-11, 10:03 PM
#42
I finished removing the ABS and TRAC hardware today. It wasn't obscenely hard, but it took quite a few hours when removing all the firewall lines carefully was factored in. My wheel well liners were already out because after the swap, I didn't get around to putting them back in. So removing the nuts that were holding the brackets in underneath there wasn't too hard at all. I didn't even remove the wheels to do it. I was too lazy to jack the car up and pull them off.
Tomorrow I'll start getting the parts together to run new lines to the fronts and rear calipers.
06-06-11, 10:05 PM
#43
bmsc300, Im doing the delete right now on a swapped sc4 and its kinda of a PITA. Im not trying to discourage you at all, but its frustrating. Here is the walk-though thread with pics:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ac-delete.html
However, I must add that there are, to the best of my knowledge, 4 nuts to remove before you can pull the whole contraption from the passenger side of the engine bay. 2 behind the fender liner, 1 on the upper shelf of the engine bay, and one hidden down in the abyss by the exhaust mani on the 2jz. I have yet to ge that one, which is why Im not SURE that is all. I recently snapped the heads off a 3" and a 6" extension trying to break some UCA bolts free. A sinlge 3" wont reach. Ohhhh Now that I think about it Ive still got at least one more 3". SCORE! Ill yank it in the morning and post.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ac-delete.html
However, I must add that there are, to the best of my knowledge, 4 nuts to remove before you can pull the whole contraption from the passenger side of the engine bay. 2 behind the fender liner, 1 on the upper shelf of the engine bay, and one hidden down in the abyss by the exhaust mani on the 2jz. I have yet to ge that one, which is why Im not SURE that is all. I recently snapped the heads off a 3" and a 6" extension trying to break some UCA bolts free. A sinlge 3" wont reach. Ohhhh Now that I think about it Ive still got at least one more 3". SCORE! Ill yank it in the morning and post.
06-07-11, 08:20 AM
#44
I guess you're better than a Formula 1 driver !!!
why an average driver removes ABS and traction control is beyond me!!
Did they change ABS on 98+ models??!! Because mine works perfectly fine. People don't like ABS till they experience the first wheel-lock, or worse, when they go straight towards an object at 90 mph. I experienced faster times on the track with the ABS on, then again, I have monstrous tires to stop the car. I'm guessing ABS doesn't function as well when you put crappy Bike tires in the front. I don't have Traction Control, but my friend's IS300 whops my *** in the rain on the track, and he has traction control, which he swears by.
why an average driver removes ABS and traction control is beyond me!!
Did they change ABS on 98+ models??!! Because mine works perfectly fine. People don't like ABS till they experience the first wheel-lock, or worse, when they go straight towards an object at 90 mph. I experienced faster times on the track with the ABS on, then again, I have monstrous tires to stop the car. I'm guessing ABS doesn't function as well when you put crappy Bike tires in the front. I don't have Traction Control, but my friend's IS300 whops my *** in the rain on the track, and he has traction control, which he swears by.
Last edited by madmax98; 06-07-11 at 08:30 AM.
