too low is not good
#1
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got my powered by max coilovers, put them on and immediatly boom bam slammed! got to admit it looks great slammed. but I couldn't even turn my wheel. so i raise it up an inch. still slammed i turn the wheel great. pull out make my first turn and i hear scraaaaaaappe!! my wheel rubbed big time. up the car goes again. this time I raised it another 1/2 inch.
I left it like this for about a month.
I would say it was over 2 in droppped in the back and 1 3/4 in the front. the measurement from the jackpoints was 6 1/4" front and back, the measure from middle of rim to bottom of wheel well was 13" front and 12" back, and i am on 245/17/45s. I think these cars were designed to have a rake stance.
The set up was a little bouncy but i figured thats cuz the springs are heavy 18kg/12kg.
The problem:
With it being too low in the back I think my springs would fully compress when I took a hard turn. When I applied gas it would bounce. NO good! I think the inside tire was coming off the ground! I raised it up an inch and I don't think I have the problem anymore. I am going to drive it tonight and see what happens.
Does anyone have some baseline ride height settings for road race and auto cross?
I left it like this for about a month.
I would say it was over 2 in droppped in the back and 1 3/4 in the front. the measurement from the jackpoints was 6 1/4" front and back, the measure from middle of rim to bottom of wheel well was 13" front and 12" back, and i am on 245/17/45s. I think these cars were designed to have a rake stance.
The set up was a little bouncy but i figured thats cuz the springs are heavy 18kg/12kg.
The problem:
With it being too low in the back I think my springs would fully compress when I took a hard turn. When I applied gas it would bounce. NO good! I think the inside tire was coming off the ground! I raised it up an inch and I don't think I have the problem anymore. I am going to drive it tonight and see what happens.
Does anyone have some baseline ride height settings for road race and auto cross?
#3
Lexus Champion
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if you wanna be really low and still prevent wheel lift off look into a set of helper springs. i have a set on the rear of my stances. the front dont need them since the shock travel is so short.
being too low is bad for handling since it messes with the suspension geometry. a few road race soarer builds that i have been following on planetsoarer are not that much lower then stock. maybe 2" MAX.
i cant compare to you right now but as a reference my car is low. measuring from the ground to the bottom of the door molding im at 11" all around.
underneath the car i have 2" max. i can stick in a roll of duct tape and maybe a couple of quarters![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
it looks goof but when i will go tracking the ride height is going up.
being too low is bad for handling since it messes with the suspension geometry. a few road race soarer builds that i have been following on planetsoarer are not that much lower then stock. maybe 2" MAX.
i cant compare to you right now but as a reference my car is low. measuring from the ground to the bottom of the door molding im at 11" all around.
underneath the car i have 2" max. i can stick in a roll of duct tape and maybe a couple of quarters
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
it looks goof but when i will go tracking the ride height is going up.
#4
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#5
Lexus Champion
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this is my ride height at the moment:
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/jzz30%20wheel%20time%20line/IMG_1421.jpg)
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/jzz30%20wheel%20time%20line/IMG_1422.jpg)
i do not have a single problem with bottoming out. the chassis harness in the driver side wheel well is rerouted through the engine bay.
suspension:
front: Stance GR+ 18k
rear: Stance GR+Pro 12k(helper springs added)
if i was to go tracking with the car, and it will be happening soon, i will raise it at least an inch from current height.
at this ride height i have only very minor issues with bump steer. i will be solving that with a set of outer tie rod with spacers to level off the tie rod.
since you mentioned 60mm clearance from wheel arc to wheel i measured. i have right at 2".
the car is on 18x10+22 enkei rp03 wheels. tires size is either 245/40/18 or 255/35/18. i have ran both without any issues of rubbing at either hard driving and even a drift event.
if i go lower by 1/2" from current state it start to rub but very rarely.
i do agree that low cars dont handle to save their(or their owners) lives.
to run a car that low requires a custom front cross member with relocated suspension points to restore factory suspension geometry.
ps...i might be doing that this summer for fun
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/jzz30%20wheel%20time%20line/IMG_1421.jpg)
![](http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/4sfed180sx/jzz30%20wheel%20time%20line/IMG_1422.jpg)
i do not have a single problem with bottoming out. the chassis harness in the driver side wheel well is rerouted through the engine bay.
suspension:
front: Stance GR+ 18k
rear: Stance GR+Pro 12k(helper springs added)
if i was to go tracking with the car, and it will be happening soon, i will raise it at least an inch from current height.
at this ride height i have only very minor issues with bump steer. i will be solving that with a set of outer tie rod with spacers to level off the tie rod.
since you mentioned 60mm clearance from wheel arc to wheel i measured. i have right at 2".
the car is on 18x10+22 enkei rp03 wheels. tires size is either 245/40/18 or 255/35/18. i have ran both without any issues of rubbing at either hard driving and even a drift event.
if i go lower by 1/2" from current state it start to rub but very rarely.
i do agree that low cars dont handle to save their(or their owners) lives.
to run a car that low requires a custom front cross member with relocated suspension points to restore factory suspension geometry.
ps...i might be doing that this summer for fun
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#8
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Yeah the 18k springs would help alot in not bottoming out. I re routed my loom too, Within about 1 month I had worn through it and my electrics started to stuff up. Your the only other person I have seen that has run into this problem.
I am running 15kg front spring rate, I am thinking of upping it, but im not sure yet. My bilsteins need another revalve atm, but I dont have heaps of cash to blow, Im just trying to get mine running again so I can start drifting again
I am running 15kg front spring rate, I am thinking of upping it, but im not sure yet. My bilsteins need another revalve atm, but I dont have heaps of cash to blow, Im just trying to get mine running again so I can start drifting again
#9
Lexus Champion
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^^^^ i did not have a problem with the harness rubbing. under normal driving the white plastic covering the harness had some scuff marks on it. i rerouted the harness just to be safe. im good with fixing electrical problems but i would rather not deal with it at all.
you will definitely need a revalve if you go from 15 to 18k springs. usual rule of thumb is about +-1k before needing a revalve if you want it to ride well.
you will definitely need a revalve if you go from 15 to 18k springs. usual rule of thumb is about +-1k before needing a revalve if you want it to ride well.
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