Opinions on these aftermarket Upper Control Arms...
04-11-09, 05:12 PM
#32
according to my alignment person, yes they are very easy to adjust. all i have to do is adjust the upper which is just 4 screws to be as flush as i want, and he just uses the adjustments on the lower arms at the balljoints. (the stock adjustment at the bolts are pushed out max so i don't have to extend the balljoints out a lot, which is quite a lot if i wanted to)
04-11-09, 05:14 PM
#33
for truth, if you hate noise from poly bushings, you're gonna hate these arms. I'm not sure how loud these will be but the Ikeyas are not horribly loud. The only noise I hear from them are when I'm at idle turning the wheel and that's hardly audible over my radio/music/exhaust (i don't blast my music for reference).
04-14-09, 08:40 PM
#34
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basically, dont buy these, from an engineering point of view, they are a death trap, you can see the ileya style ones, they obviously did some research before just making something that fits.
04-14-09, 08:53 PM
#36
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im confused there is no adjustment on the 2 end points where the arm attaches to the chassis mount the only adjustment is at the joint that connects to the spindle in which you can correct camber by lengthing or shorting the ball joint
????????????? i never seen a camber correction A arm that adjust's at 3 points where did you get that info from hondatech lol hongkong fkunks fake skunk correction arms
????????????? i never seen a camber correction A arm that adjust's at 3 points where did you get that info from hondatech lol hongkong fkunks fake skunk correction arms
04-17-09, 09:10 AM
#37
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bad news everyone TC sports dont fit !!! unless you shave like 16th of a in off either the spacer that comes on the arms or the chassis mount i choosed the chassis mount since its aluminum and the spacer on the tc kit is steel if you do this means you never be able to go back to factory cars at the alignment shop will post tonight ride review
Last edited by LAVIsH; 04-17-09 at 09:23 AM.
04-18-09, 12:26 AM
#38
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So after driving about 150 miles with them on I have no complaints it rides like stock I will post some pics of the finish product, install was a breeze i jus had to shave a little under 16th of a in to fit. This was worth the buy no bushing road noise at All speeds and in turns def worth the upgrade
Last edited by LAVIsH; 04-20-09 at 07:48 AM.
04-19-09, 03:07 AM
#40
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in my soarer hyper rev i think one of the shops was selling arms where all three pints were adjustable. maybe its to adjust castor if you had adj. upper and lower control arms?
04-20-09, 01:21 PM
#42
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not really.....
i don't know why he thinks the force will only be acting in one direction...... because it wont. The only argument i could possibly see is that a torque will be created at the joint extension (where it adjusts) because the joint is itself is separated from the arm. But i don't think anyone will shear off the bolt there unless they hit a curb at 100mph or something extreme. That's just my 2 cents, for anyone to really know we would need to perform a couple analysis of the geometry with its max dynamic load and compare to the strength of the materials used.
i don't know why he thinks the force will only be acting in one direction...... because it wont. The only argument i could possibly see is that a torque will be created at the joint extension (where it adjusts) because the joint is itself is separated from the arm. But i don't think anyone will shear off the bolt there unless they hit a curb at 100mph or something extreme. That's just my 2 cents, for anyone to really know we would need to perform a couple analysis of the geometry with its max dynamic load and compare to the strength of the materials used.
04-20-09, 09:07 PM
#44
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Ah, I shouldve provided a link, sorry.
http://www.formulastudent.de/academy...ds-in-bending/
Search "rod ends in bending"
You never engineer parts like this, not if your liable....
If you made the top arm dual adjustable it would be able to change caster too, but Id rather use the lower arm for that, like in all cars with our suspension.
I wouldnt run those arms in a million years, what happens when the rose joints wear out? I hope they are an American sized joint (inches)
http://www.formulastudent.de/academy...ds-in-bending/
Search "rod ends in bending"
You never engineer parts like this, not if your liable....
If you made the top arm dual adjustable it would be able to change caster too, but Id rather use the lower arm for that, like in all cars with our suspension.
I wouldnt run those arms in a million years, what happens when the rose joints wear out? I hope they are an American sized joint (inches)
04-20-09, 10:07 PM
#45
im with cazman.
i wouldnt use them either. after having experience with FSAE at school, it is not a reliable way to build arms.
if you want to properly retain factory suspension geometry then relocate all the pick-up point upwards by making a new front cross-member. that way you can still reuse all stock components if you like.
i wouldnt use them either. after having experience with FSAE at school, it is not a reliable way to build arms.
if you want to properly retain factory suspension geometry then relocate all the pick-up point upwards by making a new front cross-member. that way you can still reuse all stock components if you like.