xirforever

good link, especially since next year for my senior design project a group of us are going to build a FSAE car. (we already have a lot of work done)

Considering the fact that these are not for a serious competition like FSAE, i hope they put considerably thicker sized bolts than needed for proper safety and didn't worry about weight.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

you actually think those parts are tested in FE software? thats a joke in itself. they make those parts with components they "think" will work.

if you want to have correct camber then dont slam the ***** out of your car.

actually after giving this a second look they need imporvement but they are not terrible. the upper control arms are 2-point links. they work in tension and compression only. the fact that the joints are not inline with the actual links doesnt help though.

if this was the design of the lower control arm then i would very concerned. since the lower control arm houses the shock mount then it, in essence, acts as 3-point bending beam. then it is critical to have proper bearings. lower control arms should never have rod ends at the knuckle for any type of adjustments.

xirforever

no, i dont.

It would only take a small amount of time to do the dynamics and mechanics of materials to determine a pretty good estimate on required bolt size and material; then add a safety factor of 5, test it, and market.

no idea how big of a company TC is, but this would take minimal effort

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

^^^i know it doesnt take that much time to do it.

FOS=5? doesnt have to be that high. i had a professor in the design of machinery class say all the time "factor of safety is engineer's level of competence"

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

What about arms that mimic the stock design but with urethane bushings and heim joints that were adjustable. It keeps stock geometry.

LAVIsH

TC sport Review

driving condition: i use my car for work i drive at least 150 miles a day and on weekends i travel at least another 150 miles

where to find it: Flea bay listed as Supra Camber kit

install time: 1.5 hrs each side can take up to 3hrs each side if the arms have never been removed

DIY: sure if you have patience

cost: little under $300 jus for part, alignment i paid $100 for front and back

fitment: pretty straight forward i did have to do some light sanding on the chassis mount to fit without forcing it but your choice shave under 16Th of a in to get them in without a rubber hammer

Ride Factor: rides a little stiff i can feel the road but don't get any noise thou feels responsive "take into mind i live in the east bay area in Nor cal where the roads are pretty jacked up" i work 57 miles north and the freeway is pretty nice on those roads it feels stock

Overall: half the price of the Jdm stuff does the job so farr will save me money in the long run no more burning tires every 6months on the front

hope this was helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

you know i just though about it and having those adjustable arms is nice for adjusting camber but it is a total killer for any type of performance handling because it kills your suspension geometry even more then just having a lowered car.

you are fixing camber but you are extending the upper control arm. it is still sitting at an angle instead of being almost parallel with the ground.

basically what you are doing is changing the instantaneous center through which all the arc of both the control arms, upper and lower, and the tie rod travel through.

man im going back to studying and continue this tomorrow.

LAVIsH

that's the trade off, my sc is for work cruising and commuting the whole purpose of this upgrade was to stop the hole in my pocket for front tires not to make my car handle like a Champ i have a 66 fastback mustang for that

but since eveyone on this thread seems to have some engineering back ground will these arms be able to hold up for daily use and abuse ????????????????????????????????????? like i said before i use my car for work it sees mostly freeway 8-10 hrs a day no track no drifting it jus get's me from one hospital clinic or patient to another and on the weekend out and about in the town

xirforever

lol, that is pretty funny


although isn't it required to have a factor of safety when it involves peoples' lives? I'm pretty sure they use at least a 3 for structures and anything carrying a heavy load with the potential to do some serious damage.

sorry to derail thread.....




those arms look pretty stout to me...... i would think they would hold up fine. Just about the only thing you can do is check every now and then to see if it gets bent.

What do you guys think?

xirforever

maybe like a degree in all honesty? i cant see extending the control arm by 0.25" having an extreme effect on the geometry. Plus dont most FSAE cars run an angle in their upper arms? helps with the IC right?

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

it is funny to read the posts back and forth between EE, ME, PE, ect People will learn a lot if they stop and read them for the data you guys kick out. I learned EE on the fly working at a processor company and having debates about the thermal and electrical characteristics to gain a speed bump.

AD_SC3

iTrader: (1)

ME FTMFW

p.s. If they accomplish what you bought them from

saru

How Much -camber would you say you could get outta these. judging from your photos the arm was threaded all the way in. That fixed you negative camber and brought you back or close to spec ? I need to run more negative camber in the front and back and was considering these arms.

LAVIsH

i was a little over 2 degrees negative im now in fatory spec with a tad of positve camber on one side to compensate for me, i would say max these should adjust from +2.5 to -2.5

saru

damn was needing a little more then that. Maybe this upper and adjusting the lower will get me where I want to be. Just have to give them a try I guess.

thanks man