skperformance

iTrader: (6)

There is no research or testing involved.
For R&D it is just fitting it, as long as you don't create a sharp edge for a stress fracture it will be fine. So curve the edges of the aluminum and it will hold up quite well . It is really just a spacer to put it simply. It only holds pressure on one axis with the bolts so no shear pressure is on it.

It really is simple to make but my gs is for my wife so i don't even care about dropping it. Aluminum is soft that using a saw is quick to form teh overall shape. Then use a drill for the bolt holes.

They also have copy machines with arms that move a cutter drill over a peice of metal to form an exact copy of whatever you are using as a template , just move the arm over it and turn . I would not be supreised if ever company making RCA's used this to make a copy and then add a few angels and powder coating to make it look different.

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

Also the ball joints are not weak , the suspension is poorly designed so when the strut rod bushings start to go they allow shear pressure on the bolts of the ball joints allowing them to wear faster from multiple axis of pressure .
If you do not maintain all of the parts then all of them will fail faster starting with the ball joint . I keep seeing people post blaming the ball joints when they are the end result of the issue not the precursor causing it.

macd7919

iTrader: (10)

You wouldn't be able to make this with just a saw and drill. The issue would come with the center area clearing the arm on the car. I'm sure there are ways around it but the problem would be making it clean by hand would be a real PITA. Also making a flat bottom counter sink for the inserts would be a chore by hand, again, there probably are ways to do it by hand but it wont be as clean as a machined part and the amount of time it would take to do by hand would negate any of the savings over just buying a pre-made piece. Using a HAAS would be easy but not everyone owns a $100,000 CNC mill and the shops that do own them charge a pretty penny for their time.

Alexus_300

iTrader: (4)

While I see the purpose and benefits of using the RCA's to bring back the car to factory alignment spec, my biggest fear is for those that track their GS extensively. Has anyone really put these things under extreme conditions to see if they are track worthly. I'm sure that most people here use the RCA's mainly due to slamming their car. But in my case, I push my GS to it limits and know that if I ever need to correct suspension geometry,it's best to fabricate new control arms out of chromoly tubing. After that last incident with the bolt breaking off of one of the RCA kits sold by one of our vendor, it got me to start doubting the quality of these kits under extreme use.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

The bolt breaking was only 1 incident ever known, and it happened to one of the two bolt, so its a torquing issue rather than quality. EXACT recommended a torque spec of 120ftlb which is near/at the limits of the grade 12.9 for that particular size. Couple the car's weight into the equation and you'll have a lot of tension acting on the bolt. The RCAs themselves do not have to be super strong. What needs to be strong are the bolts and the 2 inner metal sleeve that slides into the knuckle arm.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

Regarding this...I thought Rominl said Exact was looking into this over-torqing issue....doing research and such....suppose to report back to CL of their findings....or something like that.

I see Exact removed the torque to 120 ft/lb for front RCA bolts info from their website....and said to follow instructions attached with purchase. Does anyone know if their instructions still require 120 ft/lbs?

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

Here is how to make them as they really are that simple ,remeber aluminumis super soft so it takes seconds to drill through it.

choose thickness required of aluminum block ,cut to specs ($20)
outline ball joint surface area
drill holes for studs (Aluminum drill bit $5)
trace outline on metal block
drill notch for ball joint and arm clearances
drill holes in block for all corners
use a saw and cut straight lines to each drill point (Aluminum saw blade $3)
sand down edges
buy appropriate bolts and washers ($5)
install and plan what to do with the 400 dollars

repeat steps to make the rears.

I am making it sounds overly easy and i do understand the true costs to making this , it is all in the autocad 3d graphing for the cnc mill. The materials is nothing in comparison.

Cutoms copying 1 set would cost about $800 to make 1 pair after that it is gravy as the work is already done and it needs to be left to run the program by itself.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

Geez..you sounding like a car salesman!!

$5??? I guess you gonna rock only a single 12.9 bolt!! Or...buy 4 low grade bolts that will snap when torqued at 25 ft/lbs.!!!

Btw...remind me not to buy anything from you!!!

DASHOCKER

iTrader: (2)

This sounds more like a Home Depot RCA kit from aisle 6. Good luck with it..

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

You can buy High tensile strength bolts for pennies but home depot charge alot for them . When you go to a wholesaler who sells everything for fasteners it is easy to get for $0.35 cents each.

I guess because i have been in the buisness for years and worked with manufactures making products ,what seems like tons of time is totally different to how i see it from the back room.

Its not like i am trying to sell them or even bother making them , i am just telling you like it is . It is harder to make a wheel spacer than it is to make these as it needs a lathe as well as a CNC.
Now how much does a wheel spacer cost?

FinLIFE

iTrader: (8)

too much money for such small items

neurocity

iTrader: (17)

After reading this...I'm sold. Going to get a set before I buy wheels.

Phamboogie

iTrader: (3)

I still have my set of Exact front RCAs and adjustable rear RCAs chilling in my trunk. Ha.