Right Front Caliper Problem
04-24-09, 02:13 PM
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Right Front Caliper Problem
I recently started to have this problem where when I reach 50-60 mph the car starts to vibrate. I took it into firestone to get it diagnosed and they said my Right front "caliber (as the mechanic said it, I think he meant caliper" is starting to lock up and that I need to replace the front brakes. He said that it will get worse over time. Some parts I do believe but I wanted to ask you guys. I do notice from a stopped position, the car does have more resistance to start rolling and I can hear my front brake sort of squeal a bit, maybe a sign of the brake not releasing as fast. Is this something that I can get fixed or do I actually have to replace to brakes? Lemme know what you guys think.
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04-24-09, 02:20 PM
#2
it sounds like he knows what's happening, but did you get the wheels balanced just to be sure? Also did he actually test the caliper?
You can get the caliper fixed for cheap, but it involves rebuilding the caliper. Few mechanics that i know rebuild calipers, instead they just replace it because it's easier. Every time brakes are serviced on one side, it's good karma to do the same to the other side. That means new pads and resurfaced/new rotors. I don't think you need two replace the caliper on the other side unless they are both causing the same problem. Can you supply a list of parts that he suggests replacing?
You can get the caliper fixed for cheap, but it involves rebuilding the caliper. Few mechanics that i know rebuild calipers, instead they just replace it because it's easier. Every time brakes are serviced on one side, it's good karma to do the same to the other side. That means new pads and resurfaced/new rotors. I don't think you need two replace the caliper on the other side unless they are both causing the same problem. Can you supply a list of parts that he suggests replacing?
04-24-09, 02:28 PM
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I have the same problem, but I think mine is the driver side instead. I have noticed it starts shaking about 50 and gradually gets worse the faster you go. It quits about 105 or so. Let us SC owner's know, if you have something there to go on. Also, how can you test the caliper? Using simple tools? Have to take it somewhere?
04-24-09, 06:50 PM
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my friend had the same problem and we swapped both calipers in the front and problem was gone ...
you can get refurbed ones from any auto parts store but if i were you i'd go ahead and upgrade to either LS or TT brakes
you can get refurbed ones from any auto parts store but if i were you i'd go ahead and upgrade to either LS or TT brakes
04-26-09, 05:04 PM
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well i've had the TT and LS and now IS brakes ...
my first SC i did the LS swap and then the TT and i couldn't tell a difference between the two ... well except in the wallet
and on my second SC i just stuck with the LS ... they are the best bang for the buck in my opinion ... they're also easier to get a hold of.
if you want bragging rights get the TT, if you want performance without breaking the bank get the LS
my first SC i did the LS swap and then the TT and i couldn't tell a difference between the two ... well except in the wallet
and on my second SC i just stuck with the LS ... they are the best bang for the buck in my opinion ... they're also easier to get a hold of.
if you want bragging rights get the TT, if you want performance without breaking the bank get the LS
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04-27-09, 06:56 PM
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Well of course they want to replace both calipers and rotors, typical... Is it okay just to replace one caliper? Also, if I do upgrade the calipers, is it okay to buy used ones or should i buy new ones, whether it be tt or ls?
04-28-09, 07:54 PM
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When my caliper was seizing I replaced only 1 caliper. If you feel like spending $ then go ahead and replace both, but it sounds like there is no need. Also, I inspected my rotor and found that it did not need to be replaced. From what you describe it sounds like you only need to replace ONE caliper, possibly one rotor, and your pads (brake bleed too). If they will not replace just one caliper, go somewhere else.
In my opinion, used parts-especially brake components, are not worth the hassle based on prices people typically charge. Why dik around with a set of used brake components that could fail in a month.
On the other hand, if I just lost my job I would probably be looking for a short term cheap solution. It's your call.
In my opinion, used parts-especially brake components, are not worth the hassle based on prices people typically charge. Why dik around with a set of used brake components that could fail in a month.
On the other hand, if I just lost my job I would probably be looking for a short term cheap solution. It's your call.
04-28-09, 08:37 PM
#10
a seized caliper will usually give you crap MPG. take a look at the rotor and see if it's over heating. normally there's a tint of blue on the rotor..that's a good sign that the caliper is frozen.
you're better off getting a reman from a parts store. you will need a new rotor...also since you probably toasted your pads might as well get that too.
make sure the shop bleeds the brakes completely. calipers freezing/seizing up usually means there's water in the brake fluid which is causing the pistons to rust out and not move.
the reason why you feel the vibrations is because the caliper is clamping on to your rotor which is warped causing your vibration.
normally vibrations are from improper wheel balance or tire/rim out of round.
you're better off getting a reman from a parts store. you will need a new rotor...also since you probably toasted your pads might as well get that too.
make sure the shop bleeds the brakes completely. calipers freezing/seizing up usually means there's water in the brake fluid which is causing the pistons to rust out and not move.
the reason why you feel the vibrations is because the caliper is clamping on to your rotor which is warped causing your vibration.
normally vibrations are from improper wheel balance or tire/rim out of round.
04-28-09, 08:59 PM
#11
i bet its one of or both of the slide pins on the caliper is seized. you can actually try to force the pins to turn and get them out by removing the caliper bracket where the slide pins go onto. if i remember correctly its a the end of the slide pin is a 17mm, stick a socket in there with a wrench and start turning.
i had to do this to a friends gs400 because the slide pins on his front right caliper both seized so the car would start to shake when braking over 40mph, and caused the rotors to heat up and warp. What i had to do was use my airgun with a socket to force it to turn and backed it out of the hole. Then i cleaned the slide pin with a wire wheel until all the rust was off and then lubed it with silicone grease as much as possible, and if the rubber boots for the slide pins are broken change them because thats what causes water to get in and rust. hope this helps
i had to do this to a friends gs400 because the slide pins on his front right caliper both seized so the car would start to shake when braking over 40mph, and caused the rotors to heat up and warp. What i had to do was use my airgun with a socket to force it to turn and backed it out of the hole. Then i cleaned the slide pin with a wire wheel until all the rust was off and then lubed it with silicone grease as much as possible, and if the rubber boots for the slide pins are broken change them because thats what causes water to get in and rust. hope this helps
04-28-09, 09:04 PM
#12
i bet its one of or both of the slide pins on the caliper is seized. you can actually try to force the pins to turn and get them out by removing the caliper bracket where the slide pins go onto. if i remember correctly its a the end of the slide pin is a 17mm, stick a socket in there with a wrench and start turning.
i had to do this to a friends gs400 because the slide pins on his front right caliper both seized so the car would start to shake when braking over 40mph, and caused the rotors to heat up and warp. What i had to do was use my airgun with a socket to force it to turn and backed it out of the hole. Then i cleaned the slide pin with a wire wheel until all the rust was off and then lubed it with silicone grease as much as possible, and if the rubber boots for the slide pins are broken change them because thats what causes water to get in and rust. hope this helps
i had to do this to a friends gs400 because the slide pins on his front right caliper both seized so the car would start to shake when braking over 40mph, and caused the rotors to heat up and warp. What i had to do was use my airgun with a socket to force it to turn and backed it out of the hole. Then i cleaned the slide pin with a wire wheel until all the rust was off and then lubed it with silicone grease as much as possible, and if the rubber boots for the slide pins are broken change them because thats what causes water to get in and rust. hope this helps
good call...floating caliper have the sliding pins. if the pins are not sliding then it's all over.
04-28-09, 09:11 PM
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i bet its one of or both of the slide pins on the caliper is seized. you can actually try to force the pins to turn and get them out by removing the caliper bracket where the slide pins go onto. if i remember correctly its a the end of the slide pin is a 17mm, stick a socket in there with a wrench and start turning.
i had to do this to a friends gs400 because the slide pins on his front right caliper both seized so the car would start to shake when braking over 40mph, and caused the rotors to heat up and warp. What i had to do was use my airgun with a socket to force it to turn and backed it out of the hole. Then i cleaned the slide pin with a wire wheel until all the rust was off and then lubed it with silicone grease as much as possible, and if the rubber boots for the slide pins are broken change them because thats what causes water to get in and rust. hope this helps
i had to do this to a friends gs400 because the slide pins on his front right caliper both seized so the car would start to shake when braking over 40mph, and caused the rotors to heat up and warp. What i had to do was use my airgun with a socket to force it to turn and backed it out of the hole. Then i cleaned the slide pin with a wire wheel until all the rust was off and then lubed it with silicone grease as much as possible, and if the rubber boots for the slide pins are broken change them because thats what causes water to get in and rust. hope this helps
04-30-09, 05:18 PM
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I had a problem with my caliper yesterday. Driving then all of a sudden heard a clicking sound. Pulled over and got out and to my surprise the top caliper bolt was gone and the caliper was just hanging there. The LS 430 wheel kept the caliper from coming off. Lucky me I look up and there's a Schucks right across the street. So I did the damn thing and got it up and running. I meant to take pics and post but I was to pissed.
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