camber correction kits necessary?
05-04-09, 09:39 AM
#1
camber correction kits necessary?
I want to replace all the bushings in my car, just wondering if I need a camber correction kit (daizen bushing kit) or can the camber be aligned correctly without these?
What bushings come in the camber kit?
I was going to buy generic bushings and save a bunch but if I need the camber correction kit I might just pic of the daizens and pay through my teeth.
Thanks,
What bushings come in the camber kit?
I was going to buy generic bushings and save a bunch but if I need the camber correction kit I might just pic of the daizens and pay through my teeth.
Thanks,
05-04-09, 11:22 AM
#2
first you have to let us know how much you want to lower your car and what suspension you will be getting.
im slammed and my guy aligned everything to my liking except for the camber in the rear. being less then 3" off the ground from the bottom of the frame rail i could still get -2* camber in the front. i could have gone less but no point.
the lowest the rear could go is -2.5* camber. thats not even that bad either. i use to have -5* right after i lowered it. the car ate through rear tires like it was going out of style.
if anything get a correction kit for the rear. the front car go down to about -1.5*. if you want good handling i wouldnt go any lower then that anyways. stock specs ask for 0* camber. EFF that.
im slammed and my guy aligned everything to my liking except for the camber in the rear. being less then 3" off the ground from the bottom of the frame rail i could still get -2* camber in the front. i could have gone less but no point.
the lowest the rear could go is -2.5* camber. thats not even that bad either. i use to have -5* right after i lowered it. the car ate through rear tires like it was going out of style.
if anything get a correction kit for the rear. the front car go down to about -1.5*. if you want good handling i wouldnt go any lower then that anyways. stock specs ask for 0* camber. EFF that.
(tuckage on stock wheels)
05-04-09, 11:32 AM
#4
i say get it aligned as is. the front should be good. the back might wear tires faster so go dumster diving or make friends at a local tire place. throw the guy 20/tire and tell him to look out for good used tires. thats what i do for drift days and suck. i havent paid for a set of drifting tires in almost 3 years
let see how low you are. here a test. roll a can of wd40 under the car. if it stops on the cat or the exhaust they your low....if it goes under then drop it more
let see how low you are. here a test. roll a can of wd40 under the car. if it stops on the cat or the exhaust they your low....if it goes under then drop it more
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05-04-09, 02:49 PM
#8
camber is a good thing. having even 1.5* of camber will help a lot with turning, wont eat your tires, and wont hurt braking.
excessive camber can hurt straightline acceleration and braking, but thats when you go for about 6* or so.
thats what time attack evos in japan run. really insane.
an important thing to look at, that i havent seen anyone on this forum talk about yet in 3 years, are camber curves.
i done with college this weekend. i will actually try to plot amber curves for our car at different ride heights and figure out the ideal height. everyone knows too low handles like ***** but how low can you go before you start hurting handling. ill try to figure this out. its gonna be a pain in the *** experience. when done ill post results.
for all practical purposes 2" drop is fine though.
05-04-09, 03:34 PM
#9
Lexus Test Driver
why would you want 0* camber anyways. the factory gives a range of almost a degree.
camber is a good thing. having even 1.5* of camber will help a lot with turning, wont eat your tires, and wont hurt braking.
excessive camber can hurt straightline acceleration and braking, but thats when you go for about 6* or so.
thats what time attack evos in japan run. really insane.
an important thing to look at, that i havent seen anyone on this forum talk about yet in 3 years, are camber curves.
i done with college this weekend. i will actually try to plot amber curves for our car at different ride heights and figure out the ideal height. everyone knows too low handles like ***** but how low can you go before you start hurting handling. ill try to figure this out. its gonna be a pain in the *** experience. when done ill post results.
for all practical purposes 2" drop is fine though.
camber is a good thing. having even 1.5* of camber will help a lot with turning, wont eat your tires, and wont hurt braking.
excessive camber can hurt straightline acceleration and braking, but thats when you go for about 6* or so.
thats what time attack evos in japan run. really insane.
an important thing to look at, that i havent seen anyone on this forum talk about yet in 3 years, are camber curves.
i done with college this weekend. i will actually try to plot amber curves for our car at different ride heights and figure out the ideal height. everyone knows too low handles like ***** but how low can you go before you start hurting handling. ill try to figure this out. its gonna be a pain in the *** experience. when done ill post results.
for all practical purposes 2" drop is fine though.
05-04-09, 04:56 PM
#10
why would you want 0* camber anyways. the factory gives a range of almost a degree.
camber is a good thing. having even 1.5* of camber will help a lot with turning, wont eat your tires, and wont hurt braking.
excessive camber can hurt straightline acceleration and braking, but thats when you go for about 6* or so.
thats what time attack evos in japan run. really insane.
an important thing to look at, that i havent seen anyone on this forum talk about yet in 3 years, are camber curves.
i done with college this weekend. i will actually try to plot amber curves for our car at different ride heights and figure out the ideal height. everyone knows too low handles like ***** but how low can you go before you start hurting handling. ill try to figure this out. its gonna be a pain in the *** experience. when done ill post results.
for all practical purposes 2" drop is fine though.
camber is a good thing. having even 1.5* of camber will help a lot with turning, wont eat your tires, and wont hurt braking.
excessive camber can hurt straightline acceleration and braking, but thats when you go for about 6* or so.
thats what time attack evos in japan run. really insane.
an important thing to look at, that i havent seen anyone on this forum talk about yet in 3 years, are camber curves.
i done with college this weekend. i will actually try to plot amber curves for our car at different ride heights and figure out the ideal height. everyone knows too low handles like ***** but how low can you go before you start hurting handling. ill try to figure this out. its gonna be a pain in the *** experience. when done ill post results.
for all practical purposes 2" drop is fine though.
Thats why we have ikeya formula arms for our cars...just very very expensive.
I am actually looking at fabbing my own arms, but I need a set of bad arms to design a jig off of, as I drive my car everyday.
05-04-09, 07:47 PM
#11
you are exactly right here...the problem with our cars is the camber curves, when we lower our suspesnion more then 1.5" our handeling is done for because of the camber we get during compression and rebound..our arms are not designed for this.
Thats why we have ikeya formula arms for our cars...just very very expensive.
I am actually looking at fabbing my own arms, but I need a set of bad arms to design a jig off of, as I drive my car everyday.
Thats why we have ikeya formula arms for our cars...just very very expensive.
I am actually looking at fabbing my own arms, but I need a set of bad arms to design a jig off of, as I drive my car everyday.
, and my car is/was a DD.actually i was thinking of making a new front cross-member, tubular at that, and relocate the suspension pick-up points. this will allow the car to be lower then stock and still retain proper suspension geometry.
