Stock system- braking harder then normal?
#1
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Stock system- braking harder then normal?
I thought i saw a thread , but when i came to search for it, couldn't find it.
I got my front brakes replaced like 4 weeks or 3 weeks ago.
I'm noticing that I have to brake much harder then normal\all the other cars i drive.
What's happening? Like, i feel like I have to start slow then slowly brake hard and if i dont push it, the car keeps moving?
I got my front brakes replaced like 4 weeks or 3 weeks ago.
I'm noticing that I have to brake much harder then normal\all the other cars i drive.
What's happening? Like, i feel like I have to start slow then slowly brake hard and if i dont push it, the car keeps moving?
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I don't think they did. I'm going back to my mechanic later this week or this weekend. I'll check. anything else that might be wrong? because if he did, i dont wanna stand there like a retard after hearing he did change the brake fluid.
#6
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the stock system just sucks in general...it always seem like I have to press it quite hard just to stop it...I wouldn't be surprised if the pedal operates an anchor that comes out at the back of this boat to slow it down.
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When i was test driving scs i drove a car with really bad breaks. Infact most of the scs i drove had poor brakes. My 5spd has rock hard brakes on the other hand.
Sounds like something is wrong. Dirty break fluid wont make your brakes feel soft. Liquids barely compress. I would be looking more into the area of break pedel alignment and master cylinder.
Sounds like something is wrong. Dirty break fluid wont make your brakes feel soft. Liquids barely compress. I would be looking more into the area of break pedel alignment and master cylinder.
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Thanks guys, i'll be able to check the fluid level in a couple of hours and report back.
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alright, on to the next step. inspect the vacuum line going from the engine to the brake booster itself. if thats got any cracks itll leak and cause a really tough brake pedal feel. although your brake booster may be having issue itself.
the master cylinder/brake booster combo is located on the drivers side under the hood closest to the firewall behind the shock tower. id look for pics and post but its monday and im so damn lazy.
the master cylinder/brake booster combo is located on the drivers side under the hood closest to the firewall behind the shock tower. id look for pics and post but its monday and im so damn lazy.
#14
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The SC300's and 400's can either use dot 3 or dot 4 fluid difference really is the amount of heat it can handle. DOT 5 you NEVER USE in these cars unless you have a different brake system setup that uses silicone brake fluid and is for track use only. BTW you can't compress a liquid. When you have your rotors (replaced,cut) and your pads changed you always get a brake flush. If you don't the brake fluid over time looses its heat resistance and it degrades. It also absorbs water so that adds to the degradation. If its black or brown change asap. It needs to look a amber/light yellow color to be new or newer. I think Autozone,Carquest,Advanced Auto,Napa has test strips to check for quality of you r brake fluid. (worth having in the tool box) Flush the fluid first and if it continues check the vacuum line going to the brake booster for cracks. If you hear a hissing noise the booster is broken and it needs to be replaced. If it is hard after the brake flush the master cylinder is broken and needs to be replaced. Do the flush you should have the brakes back after that if not check the other things mentioned. Good luck man...
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