Building Suspension for Road Racing?
03-18-10, 07:23 PM
#31
No biggie man, we all had our Bacardi moments LOL
your car looked pretty good in the vid, it looked flat in turns, but it might be the camera. Regardless, i was laughing my *** off when that dude spun off over the wet spot LOL
Imagine your car handling like a go-kart and less like a boat. The more you lower your center of gravity towards your center of roll <in a certain range> the more your car will lose roll. If you take roll out of the equation, then weight can be countered by tires and brakes that can handle it <very simply of course>. The further you place COG from COR, the more magnified the weight problem.. If the COR and COG are on the same level <which i haven't seen on street cars>, then theoretically you'll have no roll. However, when the car is moving, parts start moving in relation to each other and it gets complicated.
I hope that helps
Edit: how heavier were the Daizens compared to stockers?
your car looked pretty good in the vid, it looked flat in turns, but it might be the camera. Regardless, i was laughing my *** off when that dude spun off over the wet spot LOL
Imagine your car handling like a go-kart and less like a boat. The more you lower your center of gravity towards your center of roll <in a certain range> the more your car will lose roll. If you take roll out of the equation, then weight can be countered by tires and brakes that can handle it <very simply of course>. The further you place COG from COR, the more magnified the weight problem.. If the COR and COG are on the same level <which i haven't seen on street cars>, then theoretically you'll have no roll. However, when the car is moving, parts start moving in relation to each other and it gets complicated.
I hope that helps
Edit: how heavier were the Daizens compared to stockers?
oh and yea thats awesome that, that happened right in front of me, & got it on cam. that guy had the targa off his elise, it cost him $100 just to have the car sprayed off & that didnt include the inside that had alot of mud & grass. it looked like a water skier throwin a wake, but mud lol
Last edited by spdrcr771; 03-18-10 at 11:25 PM.
03-18-10, 07:28 PM
#32
thanks that help alot. way heavier, totally worth the $500. & with the rear being adjustable its awesome. ive made changes @ the track & it totally worked. you can totally feel the change in the *** end w/just that small adjustment. w/my new rear strut bar i might have to change it again or run slightly softer in the rear on the struts.
03-18-10, 10:11 PM
#33
the thicker the sway bar in the rear the more oversteer your car will have. if your car oversteers as is you should keep your sway bar where it is now and soften up the shocks.
swy bars have spring rates too and they should be used to complement your cars spring rates. basically if you have soft springs with a stiff sway bar it isnt much better then stiff spring and no sway bar.
my next suspension step is to go with a different/better set of dampers and softer spring rates. also get an adjustable rear sway bar.
some sway bar info, although not for our car, still applies and is very helpful:
http://www.miata.net/garage/soloii.html
swy bars have spring rates too and they should be used to complement your cars spring rates. basically if you have soft springs with a stiff sway bar it isnt much better then stiff spring and no sway bar.
my next suspension step is to go with a different/better set of dampers and softer spring rates. also get an adjustable rear sway bar.
some sway bar info, although not for our car, still applies and is very helpful:
http://www.miata.net/garage/soloii.html
03-18-10, 11:19 PM
#34
the thicker the sway bar in the rear the more oversteer your car will have. if your car oversteers as is you should keep your sway bar where it is now and soften up the shocks.
swy bars have spring rates too and they should be used to complement your cars spring rates. basically if you have soft springs with a stiff sway bar it isnt much better then stiff spring and no sway bar.
my next suspension step is to go with a different/better set of dampers and softer spring rates. also get an adjustable rear sway bar.
some sway bar info, although not for our car, still applies and is very helpful:
http://www.miata.net/garage/soloii.html
swy bars have spring rates too and they should be used to complement your cars spring rates. basically if you have soft springs with a stiff sway bar it isnt much better then stiff spring and no sway bar.
my next suspension step is to go with a different/better set of dampers and softer spring rates. also get an adjustable rear sway bar.
some sway bar info, although not for our car, still applies and is very helpful:
http://www.miata.net/garage/soloii.html
is the titan rear sway bar adjustable?, kinda suck you cant just buy the rear daizen.
03-19-10, 01:07 AM
#35
my car understeers at the limit, but i suspect it's because of my softer spring rates in the back. i figured i should get an adjustable sway bar first before changing the rear rates, since i'm going to get the sway bar anyway.
03-23-10, 10:36 PM
#38
why r u looking for a cross member? sorry if i missed it
EDIT: what's your zip code, i might be able to find a cheap one for you
EDIT: what's your zip code, i might be able to find a cheap one for you
Last edited by madmax98; 03-23-10 at 10:42 PM.
11-10-11, 04:33 PM
#42
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Madmax 98, have you pmd 5SP-jzz30? I would like to see this thread a functional thread and a follow up. I have been doing some of my own research and looking into modifying the pickup points once i lower the car. I spoke with a fab shap that deals with porsche cup cars and they will be the ones doing the pickup point mods for me. From what i understand, the fabricator mentioned if you want the best handling, a custom built subframe and suspension design would be best. Being that im going to be using custom front upper and lower arms, he will be modifying the pickup points AFTER i lower the car. The engineers from lexus are smart in their design, its the consumer that wants a lower ride. Center of gravity is better on a lower vehicle, but center of gravity is not what makes a vehicle handle. it does its part but its not all favorable. Having lowered the center of gravity on any car, the suspension design from the factory has been altered. By setting the ride height for the car, then modifying the pickup points to bring geometry back to factory specs will result in a well handling vehicle, as well as having the benefit of a lower center of gravity. I read from an engineering magazine that the proper way to "lower" a vehicle is by changing pick up points and then adding proper shocks/struts/coilovers for the desired ride height.. It makes sense not to change the geometry the original engineer has designed.
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