lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

There's a Service Campaign for the rear brake calipers for this exact problem. Lexus should fix it under warranty. Oddly enough the wife's tC had the same issue - driver's rear caliper frozen on the slider pin. I took off the caliper, cleaned everything up, applied fresh grease and reassembled. Ideally a new caliper and pin are in order.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

I had that TSIB done two years ago. At that time the dealer just checked the calipers and they were fine. Now my car is out of warranty so I guess I'm on my own on this one. I can't figure out how to take apart the caliper. There is only one "sliding" bolt. The other side looks solid.
What would be a good place to buy a replacement caliper?

wakaru8

iTrader: (1)

Yup. Same thing done. This weekend, I unseized the slider pin on the caliper by undoing the bolt on one side, hammering and wiggling until the seized side came off completely. I noticed it was rusted and dried up, no grease at all! I suspect the rubberboot covering the joint undid itself and caused the grease dry up. (Passenger side caliper) Cleaned, re-greased, put it back on and magic! It slides again. Yay.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

I've been going the same thing but I still can't get the pin to come out. It's been soaking in WD-40 for 2 days now.

Why didn't they put a second bolt in there instead of a "slider" pin? Seems like a crappy design.

wakaru8

iTrader: (1)

Take the caliper off. Rest it on something high enough so you don't pull of the brake line but is also hard enough. Remove the screw from the other side, take a 3lb hammer and hammer the sliding pin side. Sometimes u have to pull on the bracket towards you, as in to pivot it towards you and rock it back and forth and keep hammering it. Trust me, it'll come out but not without some serious brute force.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

That's what I was doing but I was a bit gentle with it. I'll use some more force today. Thanks.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

Just to make sure, that "slider" pin is supposed to just slide completely out? No need for turning it a certain way or something like that?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Nothing special. Once the caliper is rotated out of the way, it will come right off the pin, but it may take some twisting and hammering to get it off the pin. Twist first, hammer last. If you can, put a piece of wood between the caliper and the hammer - hit the wood, not the caliper to avoid marring it.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

I pulled the rubber boot to the side, sprayed WD-40, twisted the caliper out of the way to clear the rotor put a small piece of wood on the caliper and hammered away with a big hammer........ NOTHING. I called the dealership and was told that sometimes they use a torch to get those loose (this tells me that this is a common problem). I'll try that later today.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

I heated the calipers and started hammering through a piece of wood..... and the "sliding" pin broke at the threaded portion. The actual "sliding" pin didn't come out of the caliper. GOT TO LOVE IT.

So I bought re manufactured calipers from auto parts warehouse for $50 each. The new ones are $210 but what's the point of getting them when they'll seize up again in a couple of years. I'm very disappointed with Lexus and their rear caliper design.

oblivionis

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE: My re-manufactured calipers arrived and they are exactly the same as OEM except they are painted. All the components look new... I was impressed. That's the good news, the bad news was that the passenger side caliper was missing the slider pin so now I have to wait another week to get a replacement caliper. It took me 30 minutes to install the driver side caliper, pads and put the wheel back on (what a difference it makes when things are not stuck).

JDMis350

iTrader: (1)

had the same problem.new pads and rotors and i couldnt get the driver side caliper to slide completely onto the new rotor with the pads in, so i hammered it on because at that point i was crunched on time at the place i was working on my car,so i had to leave, seemed fine but at the 3rd stop light i was at my car is slghtly smoking from the rear,i get out at the light at my new pads were burning up!!! hahaha not really funny (but it was at the same time), anyways my rotors were somewhat warping <--duno if thats the right term.but in the end SIEZED CALIPER was the problem, nothing i could do to release the slider pin.wayy too rusted and my rubber boot was torn on the bottom.
so went ahead and ordered a new oem caliper and hardware and used a orbital sander to do a slight rotor resurface and now its fine. its weird how its happening to everyones driver side rear.

Lohus

Can somebody measure the spacing between piston and bolt?

ecr527

I had the same problem with the seized pins on the rear calipers and ended up replacing them with new OEM ones that were about $200 each. I kept the old ones and will use them as my core when I have to replace them the next time. I'll probably go with remanufactured ones next time.

One other thing, if you're just replacing your brake pads, there's no need to have to remove the caliper. You can just remove those springs, pull the 2 pins out and the old pads will slide right out.

Wasawat

iTrader: (3)

Thank you...Nice DIY