Cesar1047

Hey little2576,
not sure how to answer your question. The principle is essentially the same. If your rear brake caliper set up similar to the IS250/350's, you'll find a hex head bolt on the upper end of the caliper. If you look for the lower hex head bolt, you won't find it. The reason you won't find it is because the lower caliper attachment is actually a guide pin. When everything works as it should, the caliper will float on the upper removeable bolt and the lower pin. In my instance, like many others on the board, I couldn't install the inner pad because of the lack of clearance. The caliper was bound/frozen in the current position. The only way to remove the caliper would be to remove the upper hex head bolt/pin and rotate the caliper aft in order to clear caliper mounting bracket. I just used a penetrating oil to work free the stuck caliper to rotate aft. When I reassembled everything, I made sure the lower pin was lighly greased to allow the caliper to slide inward/outward in true "floating" fashion. When the caliper binds or freezes that way, the caliper refuses to move inward to accomodate the new pad. Hope this helps, Wuddya think?

Shahryar

I have an '08 IS 350 that's at over 56k miles and have been told by the dealer on a few recent visits I need to replace all the rotors and brakes. I have Centric rotors and pads on the way from partsgeek.

I read through the DIY: IS350 front brakes (w/o removing caliper) thread and was feeling comfortable about doing the pads on my own. Perhaps even the front rotors if I can find a good walkthrough (that was also requested in the thread, but the link to what was shared seems to have died).

But after reading this I'm scared to mess with the rears in any way. Seems almost everybody encountered problems. I'm thinking the safest route to go is do the front pads and (when I find the walkthrough) rotors myself and leave the rear pads and rotors for the dealer?

mandipcarz

I made a quick video of how I changed my brakes on my 08 awd IS using this tutorial hope this helps
Wheel torque:76 Ft/Lbs
Front caliper to bracket: 25 Ft/Lbs
Front caliper assembly to knuckle: 58 Ft/Lbs
Rear caliper to bracket: 18 Ft/Lbs
Front caliper assembly to knuckle: 40 Ft/Lbs
all info on bolt torque specs provided by my local Lexus dealer and Canadian tire

ChickenIS

iTrader: (1)

Replaced the rear pads on the IS250 using this thread. I ended up not replacing the rotors and only exchanged the pads. Nothing was seized and the pistons were able to be pushed in with my hands after taking the cap off of the master cylinder of course. Front is on 2nd set of rotors and 3rd set of pads. Rear is on original rotors and 2nd set of pads. My son works for Oreilys so pads were inexpensive.

scorpionge

iTrader: (19)

niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice great job on the diy thnxx

350in619

Great DIY. Thanks!
I just ordered my Centric premium rotors (F&R) from RockAuto.com and pads from Sewell.com. I've replaced my brakes on previous cars before but this will be my first attempt on my Lexus (approx 65k miles). After reading through the horror stories on the rear, I was a bit hessitant on attempting.
Thanks also to mandipcarz for posting that video. Looks like all the nightmares can be (hopefully) avoided by using a little grease prior to re-assembly.
Once I get my parts in and some grease at the parts store, I'll be tackling my brakes w/hopefully no difficulties.

EDIT: Centric premium rotors were out of stock. Ordered the high carbon as replacements. Supply Manager said they are heavy duty/high performance and won't produce additional dust. Has anyone had any experience with these rotors (Centric high carbon)?

OPTiK

Can someone recommend a good grease for brake applications? I was looking at Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, but I read they will swell caliper pin rubber bushings...so that would ruin the sliding pin bushing.

EDIT: After looking around I'm going to go with silglyde.

takadakeyo

Has anybody actually changed the slide pin? Seems like everyone just ended up getting whole new calipers? I tried to remove the slid pin and snapped the bolt in half. I would prefer to just have to change the bolt, instead of both calipers.

Daleyboy

I ordered rear brake pads from Sewell. I got the pads, took the wheel off and got to work. The pads are completely different than what is on the car. The holes don't line up with the pins, instead of a hole for the spring retainer clip there's a slot, and a different size pad all together. I called Sewell and the said the computer says its the right pads. Of course the were very nice and willing to take them back. The pads the sent me came in a Toyota box with part number 04466-50130.
Any ideas guys? I got a great price from Sewell, but they aren't the right pads.
Thanks

JohnLX300

iTrader: (2)

mandipcarz......great DIY video!! I know of many, many people and so called mechanics that DO NOT grease caliper pins when doing a brake job. I was told many of times that it is done only when necessary. I usually use mobil 1 synthetic grease for the pins for those who have asked.

whitebeast

iTrader: (5)

The only thing in this DIY that i'm not agree with is "use hammer to tap Pad to slide slot. If you have to tap it in place, your caliper is seized or going to. With normal working caliper, all you have to do is push the caliper from the back and slide the pad in place.

pmanliu

iTrader: (4)

When compressing the piston, is it recommended or not to leave the brake fluid reservoir cap open?

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

not that much fluid is displaced when you compress/decompress the brake piston. You'll know this when you bleed brakes. I didnt ever take the cap off when I changed pads, didnt get any overflow at the reservoir

blooch253

Hey guys,

Quick question. Other than the less dust, is there any other benefits to going to with dust over high performance break pads? Just realized that the pads i got from local lexus dealer were not low dust. Didnt know there were a difference.

Also, how important is grease the shim plates? I am getting squeling after the replacement. Is that the cause?

Thanks!

Matap

Personally when I replaced the pads, i got the ceramic ones and they don't really produce that much dust and I feel the braking power is really good.

Can't say for sure if the squealing is from that but I always apply some grease to the shims. It's worth a shot to pull them and grease them. BTW, i haven't heard my squeal, so it could be that you didn't apply it.