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Chilton's is wrong. This is why I use TIS. Chilton's completely jacked me on an engine rebuild in a Datsun B210. Never again.
Looks like TIS has the same guidance in step #10 of F removal instructions. My Chilton's removal procedure is identical to the TIS procedure, right down to diagrams and notes.
These folks hit the nut with an impact gun on both removal (0:23) and installation (1:53). I am not personally comfortable with that.
Just found this post. Looks like this has already been covered on the other forum.
My takeaway = torque and loosen F and R shock bolts from the bolt side while holding the nut to preserve the semi-captive locking features and not carve up the lower control arms.
Any tips for getting to the Front Upper Control arms bolts (2x 14mm)? Access to the bolt heads is difficult, and they appear to be threaded into the shock tower/body directly (?). I should have broke these bolts loose when the shocks were out...only a 36 ft-lb rating means I could have tightened them by hand after shock installation with a 6pt box end wrench. Trying to figure out if I can break them free safely with the shock installed but my breaker bar and socket won't fit.
Any tips for getting to the Front Upper Control arms bolts (2x 14mm)? Access to the bolt heads is difficult, and they appear to be threaded into the shock tower/body directly (?). I should have broke these bolts loose when the shocks were out...only a 36 ft-lb rating means I could have tightened them by hand after shock installation with a 6pt box end wrench. Trying to figure out if I can break them free safely with the shock installed but my breaker bar and socket won't fit.
Raise the side you are working on. Using a 2 wrench method. Get the closed end on the nut. Then put the second wrench on the the first for leverage. I did this for my AWD. Not sure for the RWD drive clearance from spring to body though.
Since I can do this on stock tires size 17". Depending on wheel size. Turn the the wheels full lock. Before lifting will give some access to each bolt. Full lock depending left or right bolt you're trying to remove first. If not remove the wheel all together. Just be careful if full locking wheels while car is lifted on one side. Jack may slip out.
Raise the side you are working on. Using a 2 wrench method. Get the closed end on the nut. Then put the second wrench on the the first for leverage.
My 2-wrench skills are not finely honed, and I am no mechanical genius. But I did find a good tool for this job. Tekton WRN77107 is a 12mm/14mm 6-pt racheting box head wrench with flex heads. It seems rather flimsy, but was robust enough to break loose and tighten the 36ft-lb Front UCA 14mm bolts.
Tekton WRN77107 is just over 12in long.
Access to forward bolt with spring installed.
Access to rearward bolt with spring installed.
I was able to reset all the Front bushings, but not all the Rears. Access to Rear Upper #1 body side is impossible on both Right and Left, or at least it is for me on jack-stands. Also had trouble with Rear Upper #2 body side on the Left (ride height sensor harness and bracket in the way), but got it on the Right.
Proved that the OEM rubber bushing spring effect is real. There was over a 1-inch difference in droop height after resetting, both Front and Rear.
Last edited by ChpEng; 02-21-21 at 11:41 PM.
Reason: fixed typo
My 2-wrench skills are not finely honed, and I am no mechanical genius. But I did find a good tool for this job. Tekton WRN77107 is a 12mm/14mm 6-pt racheting box head wrench with flex heads. It seems rather flimsy, but was robust enough to break loose and tighten the 36ft-lb Front UCA 14mm bolts.
Tekton WRN77107 is just over 12in long.
Access to forward bolt with spring installed.
Access to rearward bolt with spring installed.
I was able to reset all the Front bushings, but not all the Rears. Access to Rear Upper #1 body side is impossible on both Right and Left, or at least it is for me on jack-stands. Also had trouble with Rear Upper #2 body side on the Left (ride height sensor harness and bracket in the way), but got it on the Right.
Proved that the OEM rubber bushing spring effect is real. There was over a 1-inch difference in droop height after resetting, both Front and Rear.
when you guys say you are “resetting” your bushings, what exactly does this do/accomplish?
Also, is it just un-tightening and then re-tightening the bolts holding the bushing in place, when ride height and/or suspension component is replaced?
What about the torque spec for the center nut on the top of the strut shaft - front and rear? I don’t think those are in the diagrams shared previously. Thanks in advance!!
What about the torque spec for the center nut on the top of the strut shaft - front and rear? I don’t think those are in the diagrams shared previously. Thanks in advance!!
21ft-lb for ISF per TIS and Chilton's. See step 2d in new shock installation pdf linked below.
Lock nut should be replaced with a new one. Aftermarket nuts are often Nylock types. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10867808
Hi---did a search and couldnt find anything. Would someone please list suspension torque specs Much appreciated-------------LJ.
Someone was kind enuf to send me specs. So no assistance needed anymore. Thanks
Were you looking for the gs400 torque specs? If so, could you send them to me. Much appreciated.
01-19-21, 11:28 PM
