Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

How much should dealer charge for new brakes?

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Old 08-11-09, 10:47 AM
  #16  
javyLSU
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Originally Posted by vertcobra9
...Does anyone know how hard the DIY is? I don't want to mess it up and have squeeky breaks or have to get it towed someplace.
DIY instructions (with pics):
Front:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/276736-diy-is350-front-brakes-w-o-removing-caliper.html

Rear:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/suspension-and-brakes/439574-is250-rear-brake-replacement-great-diy-with-lots-of-pics.html

Both found in the DIY/FAQ thread for the 2IS. Lots of good stuff in there, check it out.

Javier
Old 08-12-09, 11:12 AM
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vertcobra9
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I have seen the DIY's ... but is it difficult... or is it easy? I don't want to take my breaks apart and find out I can't do it right. or put them back together and have them squeek really bad.
Old 08-12-09, 11:35 AM
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javyLSU
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If you can use hand tools, you can change your brake pads. It really is that easy.

Javier
Old 08-17-09, 07:21 AM
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Lets Drive
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Originally Posted by javyLSU
If you can use hand tools, you can change your brake pads. It really is that easy.

Javier
Agreed. This past weekend, it took me longer to jack my car up and remove the wheels, than changing the pads.
Old 08-17-09, 07:30 AM
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tromly
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Brake jobs at the dealership are pure gravy, better than robbing a bank. The mark-up for labor and parts are 200-300% The poor tech gets $45 for the job, look what the dealer gets for his two hour labor charge!!
Old 08-24-09, 06:39 AM
  #21  
vertcobra9
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what about resurfacting the rotors? Has anyone who replaced their breakpads themselves find that they had squeeky breaks?
Old 08-24-09, 07:58 AM
  #22  
javyLSU
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There's no need to resurface rotors unless they're severely scored or beneath minimum spec for thickness (in which case they need to be replaced). Resurfacing for a pad swap is nothing more than a quick way to get new rotors on the car.

Javier
Old 08-25-09, 11:21 AM
  #23  
Lexasaurus
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Go aftermarket, i'm buying drilled/slotted rotors with Red Stuff for $500 total for front and rear real soon here, and spending a sunday putting them on
Old 08-25-09, 03:50 PM
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Gernby
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Originally Posted by Lexasaurus
Go aftermarket, i'm buying drilled/slotted rotors with Red Stuff for $500 total for front and rear real soon here, and spending a sunday putting them on

Your drilled/slotted rotors will be lower quality, less reliable, and cost you more in pads in the long run.
Old 08-28-09, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Gernby
Your drilled/slotted rotors will be lower quality, less reliable, and cost you more in pads in the long run.
Can you explain this or have a link to prove this because I was also thinking about purchasing slotted/drilled rotors.
Old 08-28-09, 07:00 AM
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Drilling rotors on a car serves no purpose other than to weaken the rotors leading to cracks (bad), likely shorten pad life (bad) and remove mass from what is essentially a heat sink (also bad).

Slotting on the other hand -can- serve a useful purpose for race/track applications, but will shorten pad life on the street without providing any benefit.

Do a search, there's a bunch of previous threads discussing this.
Old 10-19-09, 12:53 PM
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sirCharles
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Damn, must go to the stealer within the next month or so for some new front brakes. Quoted today by Nalley Lexus in Atlanta $280 for the front low dust pads for a IS 350 with greasing and turning rotor service.

I can purchase these pads from Carson Lexus for $89 but all the service charge is an *** rip. Are there any other options?
Old 10-19-09, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by sirCharles
Damn, must go to the stealer within the next month or so for some new front brakes. Quoted today by Nalley Lexus in Atlanta $280 for the front low dust pads for a IS 350 with greasing and turning rotor service.

I can purchase these pads from Carson Lexus for $89 but all the service charge is an *** rip. Are there any other options?
Why are they doing anything to your rotors? Is there something wrong with them?
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