lexus250

I have the same issue before my drop and after. Full alignment was done and no help, maybe one day Lexus will have a solution.

steezy

I have tanabe coilovers. full slammed, only for a 6 months and my inner tires are almost bald. thinking about flipping them soon.

G-UNIT182

Hey man I had the same problem as you with the inner tire wear. I had the F sport springs put on 1-2 months before I decided to get the F sport shocks. Once I got the shocks installed about a month later I took my car to get serviced and the service rep. informed me that my tires were worn down really bad on the inside but the middle and outside was still ok. This was happening on the passanger side Front tire. Long story short I had purchased every available warranty offered including wheel and tire warranty when I purchased the car. I even had the Fsport parts installed at the STEALERSHIP. (purchased them from sewell with discount code...thanks sewell) Anyway after about an hour of arguing and the service rep coming in and out from the managers office they finally agreed to give me a new tire. They took an entire WEEK to fix the car. service rep. had told me that they needed to calll lexus corporate to find out about the alignment specs with some of their fsport upgrade parts and sure enough the parts were not properly installed the first time around they ripped me off installation. Car is fine and drives great now.

nsxiboi

iTrader: (2)

Got my car dropped on F-sport Springs last june with NO alignment at all. My tires are still good.

IS-SV

How many miles have you driven the car since June?

TommyT

iTrader: (26)

do you guys think the f-sport shock casuse problem or .... ?

nsxiboi

iTrader: (2)

I've driven about 7000 miles since June when I got the F-sport springs. Now, I have 32500 miles. Front Tires were replaced with Sumitomos HTRZIII at around 24000. Still have the original Potenzas on the back. Rears tires need to be replaced soon, but I see no camber wear at all.

AZ06IS350

I also have 20s which greatly contribute to the problem. I just installed the Megan rear camber kit which should solve the problem for the rear as the camber is now adjustable and the toe has always been within spec. As for the fronts, as long as toe is pretty much at 0, the only problem we still have is the negative camber...no front camber kit YET.

Nope, I don't have F-sport shocks, but I've had this problem since I first bought the car.

love67

iTrader: (6)

summer tire is fun but sad, my new evo's advan tires are gone 50% of it just after 3k miles.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Wheel diameter has nothing to do with the problem. Your Megan rear camber kit won't solve your toe problem. Toe being "in spec" means nothing. Either it's right or it's not. Most often it is not right even after the genius running the magic computerized machine shows you're "in the green zone" because he has no clue about what alignment really means.

You don't have a front camber problem. You could set it to zero with your current toe and you'd STILL wear out the inside edges of your front tires.

I always marvel at how many STRUT guys come here and spout off about things they just don't understand when it comes to alignments.

Pull your alignment guy to the side and tell him he needs to fix your toe so it's at a DYNAMIC zero and watch his head explode because he has NO IDEA what the real problem is.

fasteddy91

iTrader: (5)

I'm about to go back to wheelworks to have my alignment checked again and my steering wheel centered as it's turned a bit to the left as I'm driving straight. Please tell me more about DYNAMIC zero and what to tell them to get a proper alignment. Thanks Lobuxracer

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Dynamic toe is what the wheels experience while going down the road. Rubber bushings deflect based on load. Front wheels tend to push backward as the chassis moves forward (just the opposite of the driving wheels in the rear), and depending on the basic geometry and static setting, will take a toe in or toe out set while in motion.

It is impossible to see this on a computerized alignment rack.

Looking at the specs for front end alignment, you'll see the wheels can be toed in or toed out and still be "in spec" so the alignment monkey will see green on both sides and call it good. It doesn't mean it really is, it just means the settings are within factory specs.

So, from what I've seen and experienced, a slight toe-in at the front will deliver a dynamic zero toe in motion. If tire wear is a problem, I'd set up for 1mm toe-in and call it a day. The handling won't be stellar, but the tire wear will be MUCH better.

fasteddy91

iTrader: (5)

I think I understand now. When you say 1mm toe in, does that mean -0.10?

According to Lexus and the alignment shop, Specified range for the front toe should be:

-0.04 to 0.12

LF after lowering: -0.03 after alignment my left front is at: 0.07
RF after lowering: 0.13 after alignment my right front is at: 0.08

Are you saying I should ask them to set my toe closer or at -0.04?

rear left was 0.26 rear right was -0.12 right after lowering

after alignment:

Left rear: 0.10 Specified range calls for 0.04-0.20
Right rear:0.12 Specified range calls for 0.04-0.20

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The numbers you're quoting are not according to Lexus. Lexus does not specify toe by angle, they specify it by linear measurement in millimeters.

See post 27 for the correct calculated angles.

I'd still have the toe set to 0.0 degrees as a starting point. You're not there yet. If you really want to try to minimize inside edge wear, give it 0.09 on each side for 0.18 or 1mm which is the true Lexus spec.

fasteddy91

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Lobuxracer.

I'll ask the guy to adjust to 0.09 for both left and right.

so if I see a reading of -0.04, that means it's toed out whereas 0.09 means they are toed in, correct?

sorry for sounding confused.

Eddy