skperformance

iTrader: (6)

The metal sleeve only goes one way. The first time i did it I put it upside down and was stupid enough to be stumped why it wasn't going in. Remember the bushing goes in the arm , the arm goes on the ball joint then you have to push the wheel up with a jack to align the arm with the stud to push it up .
The smaller hole is on the bottom as the larger one is to fit the stud snugly .

BTW what problems on the list did you have , which are better and worse?
Also did you replace the ball joints as mentioned , otherwise it will not fix anything if it is worn.

GS4K

Thanks for the reply. I did the Daizen Steering Rack Bushing and the Control Arm Bushings, ball joints & tie rods replacement. The positives after the install: Better handling doesn't go to the right and left on uneven roads, tighter steering and turns, the clunking noise is no longer metal on metal sound. The negatives after the install: clunking noise is still there but isn't metal on metal, car shakes starting at 60mph instead of 75 and a lot worse. The main reason I did all this was to get rid of the vibration at highway speeds! This didn't do it! I really think the control arm bushings only changed the tone of the clunking noise.

pizdets17

iTrader: (4)

I just ordered all this **** too, then I took off my front wheel spacers and the vibration is gone lol. Now I have $350 in parts coming to fix a problem I no longer have lol

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

as i said in the other post u mentioned this is

which daizen kit? if its the steering rack bushing just install it anyways...eventually you'll have to change it anyways and if u have never swapped the ball joints go ahead before you become a statistic on the other well known post.

if you ordered the Control Arm Bushing Kit for the 2001+ model i will buy it from you so its not for nothing lol

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

wider widths when using spacers causes a higher thrust angle causing toe out and will multiply any vibrations more in both cases above.
Here is a basic idea of speed related vibrations.
The wheel is either clunking from being out of round (slow speed) or wobbling (highspeed)
You get them balanced and you should be perfect , right? NO !
It only means when the wheels are pointed dead straight they are balanced .To get a better idea think of the way a planet orbits the sun it is not perfectly flat but on a different angle than others. The second you start to move the friction of the road pulls the front of the wheels out (toe out) . It multiplies even worse when parts are worn and allow excess tolerances which means more toe out. So you are now driving with brand new balanced wheels and have a horrific vibration . Why the hell is this ? It is because the wheels are not balanced to be on a rotation that is sticking out and the slightest imperfection in the wheel or tire (bend or flaw) will make the wheel vibrate .
Hope this made sense .
Your really want to be cheap add some toe in to both sides and it will compensate but unless you are good it will not be going straight.
Now what marks the vibration is by the amount of pressure applied at a certain speed. So if it is at 60mph (let's say) then goes away it could be a number of things but if it continues to get worse as you go faster it is because of excess toe and the wheels abnormal orbit or rotation.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

i just saw this, i didn't post a rumor. i said I THINK and not to quote me as im not 100% sure. never did i say this is correct. it does make sense though as the problems with the 1998-2000 balljoints was corrected in the 2001+ model so why when you order the replacement would they give u the same crappy part that didn't work instead of the newer one that fixed the issue. again this is y i said i think not i know. and as henry said the OLD party # now supersedes to the new part # so its not just a hunch. it does make sense but AGAIN im not 100% so dont quote me. you'll all seem to understand/know suspension issues more than me so i was just giving my $0.02

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

If you are "think" or have a hunch, you do not know . So it is unsubstantiated by no facts, thus a rumor .

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

I like your reply's dude you seem pretty knowledgeable in the suspension area.. Thanks again..

Tony

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

Just replaced the tension rod with a 03-05 arm on my 98.


left is new OEM, right is old OEM.
OEM part made from Jan.2003 - present uses the TRD equivalent bushings (source. Arm was about 100/side with a discount. Sure, Daizen bushings are cheaper, but installations a *****. I also bought replacement bolts for them, was like 10 bucks for 4 of them.

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

Nice coco , got a pic of the actual bushing?

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

Coco that is a huge difference in size with these caster arms.. Much stronger metal and durable.. thanks for sharing..

Tony

RUSSOM

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm,

I see that most posts show a different caster arm and lower balljoint (as I understand that they should be used together respectively) for the 98-00 to the 01+, and then there is this post that shows Jan '03-05. So how many versions of caster arm and lower ball joint have there been? I've got a 99 GS4, I need to do this and some other maint. items and if I need to get a new part anyway, I might as well get the best/latest version of them. So do the differences run 98-00, 01-02, 03-05? Or just 98-00 and 01+?

Thanks guys

Och

iTrader: (3)

Tension rod and caster arm is the same thing, right?

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

As for the chassis, in Japan, everyone calls the GS like...
98-00 = zenki
00-03 = chuki
03-05 = kouki
b/c things changed majorly in those years. I didn't research much about ball joints so I can't say anything for sure.

As for the tension rod, I was afraid that since I got information from researching sites from Japan and calling up Netz and TRD in Japan that it might not fit, but 03-05 arm is a direct bolt on to a 98-00 chassis, my GS is a proven fact that it'll even work on USDM GSs.

Beefier arm and bigger bushings from what I can see. From what I researched, these bushings are stiffer than 98-00 OEM and have TRD equivalent bushings. The TRD site even says that 03-05 has TRD equivalent bushing or something like that. Parts number match from the Japanese sites I looked at. HOWEVER, listen up Lexus, you're a ****ing rip off. Lower arm no2 are sold in Japan for 50bucks per side. In the States? 200 per side. What a bunch of horse****, seriously.

No idea about the material and durability. It's hard to compare since most people wear the **** out of these bushings and then change them to a newer arm in Japan.... but, from that torn bushings, I think it gets A LOT of stress, especially if slammed. Converting it to a heim joint may not be a bad idea if you want to super slammed and drive a lot.

yes. lower arm no2 in toyota speak. I think usually referred to as a tension rod.

Hope that helps. I'm here help out but don't expect me to be a black box that'll spit out information that you want (meaning don't send me a PM asking me some stupid *****).