Biggu

iTrader: (12)

its not the diff that needs machined, the top spacer that goes over front subframe needs the inner ring removed.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Wow, my car hates me. LOL. Not only did I install these things not knowing this, I broke a stud on one of my motor mounts. I decided to check the tightness. LOL. This was on one of my BRAND NEW Megan mounts. Good thing I didn't throw out the stock mounts.

Why the heck would they make them like that?

I had a hell of a clunking on my way home. Decided to jack up the rear and make sure I didn't leave anything loose. I then thought I should check your first post to see what the heck you were talking about, now that I have taken the spacers back out I can definately see how that inner ring would cause a problem. Very likely why I was clunking. LOL.

How did you remove the ring? I'm going to drive the wife's van to work tomorrow and bring the spacers with me, don't have anything here at the house to do the job. I'll need to figure someting out.

Thanks for sharing that info. Sucks I found out a little too late.

KC

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

KC, Send those cups to me and I will throw them on my lathe and take it off, No charge, its a 5 minute deal, maybe just find a local guy with a lathe.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Scott,

Thanks a million for the offer but I'm sure I can find away. Worst comes to worst I can probably get some aggresive grinding disks, cookies I call them, and use my angle die grinder. The inner ring looks to be about the same size as one of the small disks. Some of the ones they sell at Lowes are actually pretty impressive, I've used them before to smooth the welds on my exhaust. These collars are made out of aluminum so they should eat right through it.

KC

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

That should work fine, I know the exact sanding disks you are refering to, I use them like candy.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again for the offer.

I will have some sort of solution by tomorrow. This is maybe the 3rd or 4th time my car has been down and I don't like it one bit. LOL.

I would put it back together tonight but I left the stock parts at work in my toolbox. And, I don't think it's a good idea to drive it, even the 10 miles back to work, with these spacers not fitting right. Did I mention the really bad clunk?

KC

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Alright, I'm still lost.

I modified mine to pretty much look like yours. But, they still do not fit over the bushings center sleeve. Seems to me that the center hole needs to be made bigger...? Otherwise it's just acting like a spacer, dropping the front of the subframe down the thickness of the peice itself.

Am I missing something? I do intend to make the hole bigger, I brought the stuff I need home just in case.

KC

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

you dont need it to be bigger, it fits on like a spacer.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

I don't buy that. The way it sits as is, the downward facing part of it doesn't even make much contact with the frame.

Why would you want it that way?

I understand that it is used somewhat like a spacer between the frame and the body but not between the center of the bushing, which sticks up higher than the frame, and the body.



KC

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

KC,
If you make it clamp on the rear end it will be like solid busings, you might as well do solid bushing if you are doing that. Thats why I maching a set from black nylon, they should stiffen it up a bunch but not quite be solid. Maybe i am not understanding, got any pictures. Personally, I dont see what these cups would add over the stock caps.

BattleVer

I dont understand why they call a diff mount a subframe mount. I did things differently, I have the actual subframe mounts made and have a few sets available.

Back to the topic of the traction links. By changing the length of the arms, you change the overall upright angle. That has an effect on the anti squat built into the car. Most people dont know what they are doing so I suggest just installing them to stock length and dont play with it. Everytime you move that link, you will have to redo your alignment. It will throw everything off. I also have traction links in stock and they help.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

They are actually both. 4 of them are for the front diff ear mounts and 4 of them are for the front mounts of the rear subframe. I had no issue installing the diff earmount collars and they work great. There is no flex in the front of the diff and very little on the rear half which is still attatched to the frame via the OEM rubber cushions, I had replaced those not too long ago.

If you can, send me a pic or link to a picture of the frame mounts you have, I might be interested.

On the traction rods. I would like to know what I'm doing thats why I've asked. I have done many alignments and have no problem setting a vehicle to factory specs I just don't know how to modify the specs to better suit my needs. I also don't understand the point of having adjustable traction rods so that I can just set them to stock length. Other than having the better bushing, what's the point of having the adjustment if it is not used. I somewhat understand the concept of "anti-squat" but I don't know how to adjust the rods to get the effect.

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Now, on these rear subframe collars. I've given up. I don't know for 100% if I'm just a whimp or if they just don't fit the car correctly but I don't like them. They don't seems to fit like they should even after altering them a bit. After installing them the front of the frame seems to have no flex but when driving, it sounds as though both rear shock bolts are loose. There's a lound bang just about every time the transmission shifts and a similar lound bang every time I go over much of a bump. Sounds like something is loose. Maybe this is to be expected?

So, I have put the stock parts back on the subframe. Now everything is great with just the diff collars. There is more whine from the diff but it's not at all bad. Hard to explain it but I can feel the positive result of using them. There is actually less shock and less of the feeling that something is moving around in the back that shouldn't be.

I should have the steering rack bushings and the traction rods by Tuesday. Still waiting on the toe control arms, sway bar bushings and the CR bushings. I did install the rear sway bar links today which was a pain because I had to cut one of them off.

KC

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Let me know if you decide to make two sets. LOL.

KC

BattleVer

I really dont think people are installing those parts right. I know people are using them on the front diff but the fact that you need to machine them to fit tells you they are not made for that aplication. From the pictures I've seen, maybe they do fit on the rear mounts and not the diff? Maybe everyone is doing it wrong because the first person to install these with pictures did it wrong and everyone is following the idiots lead.

When I was looking at making the subframe spacers, I though if I did an add on spacer (like the max ones) they would have to have those ribs on it. The pictures people show of the diff mounts have the ribs that the rear sub needs.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

No, the one set is for the front diff mounts. The ear mounts. They fit perfectly without any modification. They are MUCH deeper than the set that is supposed to be for the subframe. The center sleeves of the diff bushings fit into into the collar perfectly. They are basically the exact same thing as the stock parts but solid.

It's just the frame mount I'm not convinced on. Also, the rear frame mounts are completely different, nothing like the front frame mounts or the front diff mounts.

I don't know if something is different about it, but it should be noted that these parts are sold for the Toyota Soarer, not the Lexus SC400. So, maybe something is different? Maybe they are made for a 5-speed frame and something is different about it?

I'll try and take some installed pics on the front diff ear mount collars later but if you go down to the earlier post by Biggu, you'll see that they fit.

So, can you not explain how to adjust the traction rods? If you have info please share it.

KC