KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

I have purchased a set of Megan Racing adjustable traction rods. I have not, however, found a whole lot of useful info on what to do with the adjustment. I assume that the adjustment affects mostly caster and toe. Likely will affect camber a bit as well.

But, my question to all of the suspension guru's, how do I use them to best improve street / strip traction? What are the best specs keeping in mind that my car is also a daily driver.

For straight line performance, I would assume that it would be best to have 0 degrees (or as close as possible to) of toe and camber UNDER LOAD. Keeping in mind the change in angles that happen when the car squats.

For daily driving fun with cornering, I really don't know what's best other than staying within the factory specs.

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I have recently purchased just about everything needed to rebuild my suspension. Prothane front and rear control arm kits. Prothane front and rear sway bar bushings. Front and rear sway bar links. The traction rods already mentioned above. I already have Supra turbo struts with Swift springs. I am very likely going to purchase steering rack bushings too.

Anything I'm missing? I should probably get front and rear strut mounts but I've already spent way too much. LOL.

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I have also purchased solid collars for the differential ear mounts and for the front bushings located in the rear subframe.

Got these here - http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17 - bottom of page. Not sure how these work yet but figured I can't go wrong for 50 bucks + shipping.

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Thanks for any input!

I will update on the solid collars. I'm not sure that many (if any) on this forum know about these units sold by the above company. A buddy of mine (Nissan guy) told me about them.

KC

CLNSC3

iTrader: (4)

Alignment specs can be tricky. Its hard to say for sure what will be the best specs for your car because there are so many variables both with your car/mods and intended use.

A lot of the Supra guys use the Lance W. alignment specs and then adjust from there. I followed the same route and I am very happy with the results, the Lance alignment is a great baseline.

For fine tuning I found an alignment shop with experience aligning race cars, I told them what kind of changes I wanted in my cars handling and they helped to adjust the Lance alignment specs to fit my needs. I do not drag race but I do a lot of AutoX, HPDE events and I will also be starting Time Attack events this spring.

Here is the link to the Lance W specs:

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/lan...ent/index.html


Josh

speed6

iTrader: (1)

i run all that megan stuff, i love it. i even modified the supra tie rods to work

kponti

So does that mean the Supra and SC cars have the same alignment specs? I ask because I really do not think Lance's specs will work very well on our car especially involving toe. I think with his specs the SC series will still experience inner tie wear. Seems the SC prefers more toe in than the Supra IMO

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

I know 6 speed supra TT's have shorter toe rods and possible traction bars, not sure on the autos. funny cause they use the same A-arm.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

It's funny that inner REAR tire wear is mentioned. All of my tires have worn in the center. Even while running low tire pressure.

My front tires wore out bad on the inside edges. Mostly due to the fact that I can't adjust camber properly because the adjuster bolts are seized to the bushings (inner sleeves) on the front control arms. One of the reasons I'm replacing the bushings.

I'll just have to expirement. It would be interesting to install everything / set the alignment then use a ratchet strap to pull down the rear of the car to simulate squat.

If you watch my more recent 1/8 mile video, the rear tires move quite a bit. Massive negative camber.

KC

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Added to the list:

Rack bushings
Megan rear adjustable toe arms
Also bought bolts and nuts for the upper control arms. I fear something breaking or not coming loose.

If I'm not mistaken, the only bushings I won't be replacing (besides the rear subframe bushings) will be the bushing on the spindle that the traction rod connects to.

Does anyone know if this bushing is available?

KC

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

Some rather pricey stuff from over on SF. I like the Diff traction bars. Just more info to digest.









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KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

I like the rear upper arms but they look like hell to adjust.

I had seen the diff support thing but I'm not really convinced on its function. Doesn't seem like it would stop the diff from twisting. Maybe I'm missing something?

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I got the stuff ordered from poweredbymax.net today. To be clear, the four on the left are for the diff ear mounts and the four on the right are for the two front subframe bushings.

I'm not really sure yet how these things install but I think they simply sit over the stock bushings.

Since putting in the Megan poly motor and trans mounts and rebuilding the auto I have some pretty nasty clunks. I think this is in part due to the engine not moving as much and the trans shifting harder, both facts causing more movement in the drive shaft and rear end. I am hoping these will help. I had noticed recently that when my car is on a lift, the rear subframe sags. The two front bushings have about a 1/4 of space between the frame and the body. Not really sure how this is possible but I'm hoping these collars will help. If not, I guess I'll be getting new subframe bushings.

KC

CLNSC3

iTrader: (4)

Like I said, I used those specs as a baseline and had it adjusted from there for my specific car and driving habits! I have been driving and racing it with this alignment for a year and am very happy with the results. No unusual tire wear or handling characteristics.

KC95SC400 - Where did you pick up the Megan tranny and motor mount bushings? Were you able to find any made by a different manufacturer?

RedPhoenix

iTrader: (10)

What is the point of that diff traction arm...? hes using stock rubber mounts... if you replace those should the diff be more sturdy that a pivoting traction arm with small dinky tabs holding it to the chasis...?

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Ya, I don't get it either.

Red, did you ever make solid driveshaft pucks?

CLNSC3 - Google and you shall find. I do know of at least one other company that makes them, I'll have to look when I get home.

KC

ScottURnot

iTrader: (33)

You suppose the diff links let you keep the comfort of rubber bushings but prevent the rearend from twisting down, thus eliminating wheel hop?

I made some Nylon diff bushings for mine, should do great.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

KC95SC400- i have the PBM subframe spacers on my car too, they will fit you just remove the OEM spacers there and put yours in place. now dont forget that you WILL have to machine that lip down like they told you, if you do not they will not work.
Machining needed:

installed:



**i dont have any pics on the front subframe at this time but i can get some if needed.

KC95SC400

iTrader: (3)

Could you explain what is needed? I'm at work and I can't see the pictures here. I was planning on throwing them on before leaving tonight. I have a spare diff laying here and I don't see anything that needs machining?

Scott, I don't see how that device keeps the diff from twisting. If it were locked between that short rear bar and the subframe right there, then I could see it.

KC