LudeNsoL

iTrader: (14)

hey i am going to lower my gs this weekend. I already read the DIY on to how to do it,but I was wondering if anyone had any other pointers/tips to help me make this job easier. I have never changed out suspension on a RWD, so I dont know if there are any differences from a FWD. I am putting springs with new Kyb struts. I was going to also do the LBJ while i was at it, then after all get a alignment. Thanks for your help

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Once you take out the (2) 17mm bolt that holds the lower balljoint to the knuckle, you'll be able to move the knuckle out of the way to take out the front spring/shock. This allows you to remove the assembly and change the balljoints within one shot. In the DIY, it mentions to disconnect the upper ball joint. That method allows for more error, and eventually you'll have to remove the 17mm bolts anyways.

It's also nice to have something holding the brake assembly while you try to remove/install the new spring/shock otherwise you're going to stress out the upper ball joint. I just held it in one hand and remove the spring/shock with the other.

LudeNsoL

iTrader: (14)

Thanks a lot. I am def going to do that. How long do u think it will tkae? I am also having a friend help me.

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

strut/spring replacements are always a pain since u need a spring compressor from autozone.

having some rope hold the hub and the UCA is nice too like this


also DONT let the caliper hang on its line, rest it on the strut rod or w/e is near there.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I'd expect 4-6 hours, especially if it's your first time. If you're using a spring compression that's rented from the auto parts store, then it'll take even longer just because you have to get the spring/shock/tophat alignment correct. Make a mark on the top-hat so you know the orientation when you put everything back together.

Imagine this with a top hat. Mark the top hat and try to match it with the bottom of the shock.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

I highly recommend that you change the top hats and the bushings on top of the struts. I regret not changing them now they mAke noise noticeable at night

[ant]

i wouldnt undo the top ball joint unless you really want to because you dont have to. You just have to turn the wheel and manouever the shocky out toward the front of the car. i did mine no issue, just watch out for snagging on the brake lines which will be loose once you've d/c them from the brackets on the OEM shock body. Also dont go compressing the springs in any way on the car, you dont need to and if anything it makes them harder to get out. (learnt this the hard way lol)

With the front bottom shock mount bolt, not sure if its mentioned on the DIY but make sure you have sockets on both sides otherwise it just rotates the lot, and i found it easier to undo it from the bolt head side, since the nut is actually serrated slightly (though i think its more of a load indicator type nut) and it seems to grab up a bit whereas the bolt seems to back out of it okay.

the front is easier than the rear in my experience, as the rear bottom bolt is also a camber bolt that goes thru the hub assembly and the whole assembly can sort of 'kink' and bite up a bit on the bolt as you're trying to remove it. Sometimes it comes out easier than other times though so you may be lucky!

Nosferatu2

iTrader: (1)

is this pro kit you putting in ?

PHML

iTrader: (33)

its pretty simple...getting a second set of hands to help is harder. good luck with your install.

pete

BLAZE

iTrader: (2)

Don't stretch your abs sensor wire, It will break inside the cover and throw a code.