Subframe & Diff spacers- Powered by Max
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Subframe & Diff spacers- Powered by Max
JZZ330 Subframe and differential spacers.
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17
Has anyone here ever installed them?
The diff ones went on without a hitch, the problem I'm running into is the actual subframe spacers and the bushings.
This is the bushing that's giving me problems, I'm not sure if I should remove it, or what...
The subframe spacer just kinda sits on top of the bushing, instead of wrapping around it like the other ones did...
And I'm pretty sure it's supposed to sit in that little groove between the edges of the rubber and the metal sleeve.
http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?17
Has anyone here ever installed them?
The diff ones went on without a hitch, the problem I'm running into is the actual subframe spacers and the bushings.
This is the bushing that's giving me problems, I'm not sure if I should remove it, or what...
The subframe spacer just kinda sits on top of the bushing, instead of wrapping around it like the other ones did...
And I'm pretty sure it's supposed to sit in that little groove between the edges of the rubber and the metal sleeve.
Last edited by FaLKoN300; 03-20-10 at 11:46 AM.
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I just reinstalled them to make sure I'm not crazy, and the spacer is indeed too small to accommodate the bushing.
This is when I jack the subframe up, the bushing gets compressed by the chassis and the spacer.
When there's no weight on the subframe, the bushing pushes the subframe down.
So when you're driving around, you can hear the subframe spacer slapping the chassis, it's quite annoying, looks like I have to drop the subframe AGAIN. Back to work...
This is when I jack the subframe up, the bushing gets compressed by the chassis and the spacer.
When there's no weight on the subframe, the bushing pushes the subframe down.
So when you're driving around, you can hear the subframe spacer slapping the chassis, it's quite annoying, looks like I have to drop the subframe AGAIN. Back to work...
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Just moved this thread to the right spot. Also read this thread for more details. its in there.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...entioning.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...entioning.html
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yyup the top subframe spacer needs to be modified to fit over the key/sleeve properly.
bottom subframe spacers should not have an issue. jza80's dont have this issue though. just our sc's
lower your car with like planks or stands under the wheels, or something so you can still be under the car to tighten the subframe bolts.
then lower the car like an inch after it hits the planks. this way you have weight pushing your sub frame against the chassis, and then you can properly torque down the subframe bolts.
bottom subframe spacers should not have an issue. jza80's dont have this issue though. just our sc's
lower your car with like planks or stands under the wheels, or something so you can still be under the car to tighten the subframe bolts.
then lower the car like an inch after it hits the planks. this way you have weight pushing your sub frame against the chassis, and then you can properly torque down the subframe bolts.
Last edited by rwdanthony; 03-21-10 at 12:07 AM.
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yyup the top subframe spacer needs to be modified to fit over the key/sleeve properly.
bottom subframe spacers should not have an issue. jza80's dont have this issue though. just our sc's
lower your car with like planks or stands under the wheels, or something so you can still be under the car to tighten the subframe bolts.
then lower the car like an inch after it hits the planks. this way you have weight pushing your sub frame against the chassis, and then you can properly torque down the subframe bolts.
bottom subframe spacers should not have an issue. jza80's dont have this issue though. just our sc's
lower your car with like planks or stands under the wheels, or something so you can still be under the car to tighten the subframe bolts.
then lower the car like an inch after it hits the planks. this way you have weight pushing your sub frame against the chassis, and then you can properly torque down the subframe bolts.
I just took the damn things out, I don't wanna drop the subframe AGAIN.
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Thank god I used to work at a place with a shop otherwise I'd be ****ED.
Car is up in the air, just waiting for my homie to get here from San Jose.
Gonna install, test drive, then get some JAMBA JUICEEEEEEEEEE nice day.
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Originally Posted by Dan at MAX USA
There is a difference on the USA and Japan Jzz30 vs Jzz31.
these parts are sold in Japan for the Toyota Soarer, not the Lexus SC400
The Japanese car does not have the notch on the subframe post the USA version car has, so this JDM part needs the inner diameter cut out (only on 2 of the eight pieces, the upper subframe ones).
Here is a post from member biggu on club lexus that he (partially) modded his in the following photo:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...entioning.html
top spacer that goes over front subframe needs the inner ring removed
the picture shows the inner ring partially removed but to clarify, it needs to be completely removed so that the inner diameter is larger, moved out to delete the inner ring entirely. so where you see the raw aluminum in the pic, that needs to be all ground out. if you know someone with a lathe its like 5 minutes, if not its more like 30 minutes to an hour with grinders out of the local hardware store.
Alternatively, the ID is being cleared out for a square hump that sticks out of 25% of the diameter of the subframe post, so you could theoretically cut out only a portion of the inner ring but the fact is if there is a lathe its easier to take the whole inner ring out.
these parts are sold in Japan for the Toyota Soarer, not the Lexus SC400
The Japanese car does not have the notch on the subframe post the USA version car has, so this JDM part needs the inner diameter cut out (only on 2 of the eight pieces, the upper subframe ones).
Here is a post from member biggu on club lexus that he (partially) modded his in the following photo:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...entioning.html
top spacer that goes over front subframe needs the inner ring removed
the picture shows the inner ring partially removed but to clarify, it needs to be completely removed so that the inner diameter is larger, moved out to delete the inner ring entirely. so where you see the raw aluminum in the pic, that needs to be all ground out. if you know someone with a lathe its like 5 minutes, if not its more like 30 minutes to an hour with grinders out of the local hardware store.
Alternatively, the ID is being cleared out for a square hump that sticks out of 25% of the diameter of the subframe post, so you could theoretically cut out only a portion of the inner ring but the fact is if there is a lathe its easier to take the whole inner ring out.
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yeah, i spoke to dan with that in person. it can just be earlier models were similar to the soarer aka jzz30 chassis compared to our sc300 aka jzz31 chassis which had a different subframe mount.
biggu's could have been either an early or later model. so its just by chance in a way, if itll fit or not.
biggu's could have been either an early or later model. so its just by chance in a way, if itll fit or not.
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