DIY - Daizen Caster Arm Bushing Installation - lots of pics!
10-04-10 | 09:47 AM
#46
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: MS
Hey guys,
I'm going to order the Daizen control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and steering rack bushings from TM Engineering for my 2001 GS430. But, I keep reading threads about caster arm bushings and how those are the main culprit in a lot of the GS430 vibration/shimmy. I asked the guy at TM Engineering about caster arm bushings, and he said, "Those are probably the #2 bushings which are included". However, I also talked to a parts guy at Sewell Lexus, and he said that the caster arm bushings are different. Does anybody know?!!! I'm very confused and want to make sure to get the correct work done.
Thanks for your help.
I'm going to order the Daizen control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and steering rack bushings from TM Engineering for my 2001 GS430. But, I keep reading threads about caster arm bushings and how those are the main culprit in a lot of the GS430 vibration/shimmy. I asked the guy at TM Engineering about caster arm bushings, and he said, "Those are probably the #2 bushings which are included". However, I also talked to a parts guy at Sewell Lexus, and he said that the caster arm bushings are different. Does anybody know?!!! I'm very confused and want to make sure to get the correct work done.
Thanks for your help.
10-04-10 | 01:40 PM
#47
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 546
Likes: 22
From: ca
The caster arm bushings are in fact the #2 control arm bushings, as TM told you.
10-26-10 | 11:25 AM
#49
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: VA
Well, I wanted to wait until I figured things out, and it took almost 2.5 months, but I do have the answer 
. The answer is that the caster arm bushings did [drumroll] not fix my clunking. It seemed to have gotten better at first, but within a few days I had to admit to myself that the clunking (when braking and turning) remained. I ended up replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends, but the clunking still remained. I looked no less than 4 times at all parts of my suspension, both front and rear, but everything seemed real tight.
I was on the verge of capitulating and taking it to a mechanic, knowing full well that their approach would most likely be to throw parts at it until something fixed the problem (not my idea of fun, when I am the one paying for their experiments.) But just before I did that, I took the "desperate" step of what I should have done earlier - I took apart my front brakes, removed the pads, cleaned and lubricated everything, and put all the same parts back in.
The clunk is now gone! I should have known better, because about 2 years ago I was posting here about an almost identical clunk that went away when I replaced my Pep Boys pads with Akebonos; I just never considered that even though I still had the same Akebono's in place, that perhaps the brakes needed a freshening up of grease or whatever it was that solves the clunking. But whatever the gremlin was, cleaning and lubricating the pads fixed the clunk for me. I have been clunk-free now for over two weeks.
Obviously everyone's "clunk" is different, but in my case, the pads were the culprit.
. The answer is that the caster arm bushings did [drumroll] not fix my clunking. It seemed to have gotten better at first, but within a few days I had to admit to myself that the clunking (when braking and turning) remained. I ended up replacing the ball joints and tie rod ends, but the clunking still remained. I looked no less than 4 times at all parts of my suspension, both front and rear, but everything seemed real tight.I was on the verge of capitulating and taking it to a mechanic, knowing full well that their approach would most likely be to throw parts at it until something fixed the problem (not my idea of fun, when I am the one paying for their experiments
.) But just before I did that, I took the "desperate" step of what I should have done earlier - I took apart my front brakes, removed the pads, cleaned and lubricated everything, and put all the same parts back in. The clunk is now gone! I should have known better, because about 2 years ago I was posting here about an almost identical clunk that went away when I replaced my Pep Boys pads with Akebonos; I just never considered that even though I still had the same Akebono's in place, that perhaps the brakes needed a freshening up of grease or whatever it was that solves the clunking. But whatever the gremlin was, cleaning and lubricating the pads fixed the clunk for me. I have been clunk-free now for over two weeks
.Obviously everyone's "clunk" is different, but in my case, the pads were the culprit.
Now, my problem is I HAVE been going to mechanic'S' and they ARE throwing parts at it trying to figure out what the hell it is. Now they're telling me it's brakes. I need to have something definitive to go on before I drop another dime into my car as I'm thinking of selling it anyway!
I've opened a thread on this a few months ago but after I described the noise, every member suggested it was ball joints, its wasn't! Any advice or suggestion would be awesome!
10-26-10 | 01:34 PM
#50
You talk about a clunking noise when braking and turning... let's see if we can help eachother out here (or you can help me). I just dropped about $1500 on my car and replaced shocks/struts, sway bars/bushings, sway bar links, ball joints, tie rods and steering rack bushings after a noise I've had for the longest time that NOBODY can pinpoint what it is. Now that the noise is much worse I put all that money into my car and IT'S STILL THERE! Can you describe the "clunking" noise you had? My noise is not clunking, it's like a prolonged grind/creek/pop-pop noise as Im turning the wheel during or right after a stop then turn (basically every time I'm parking).
Now, my problem is I HAVE been going to mechanic'S' and they ARE throwing parts at it trying to figure out what the hell it is. Now they're telling me it's brakes. I need to have something definitive to go on before I drop another dime into my car as I'm thinking of selling it anyway!
I've opened a thread on this a few months ago but after I described the noise, every member suggested it was ball joints, its wasn't! Any advice or suggestion would be awesome!
Now, my problem is I HAVE been going to mechanic'S' and they ARE throwing parts at it trying to figure out what the hell it is. Now they're telling me it's brakes. I need to have something definitive to go on before I drop another dime into my car as I'm thinking of selling it anyway!
I've opened a thread on this a few months ago but after I described the noise, every member suggested it was ball joints, its wasn't! Any advice or suggestion would be awesome!
10-26-10 | 01:50 PM
#51
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 546
Likes: 22
From: ca
Mine was different, it was a single clunk or thump, which I believe was due to the brake pad slipping and sliding within the caliper. A prolonged grind/creak is something different.. But I agree, it sounds like something in the brake area.
10-26-10 | 07:41 PM
#52
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: VA
Thanks for the updates fellow GS guys...
Actually I'm not totally steaming mad for replacing what I did because my GS now drives like a dream (except for the noise). Many shakes, rattles, the "floaty feeling" and several other small annoyances are now completely absent! I can take turns and corners much faster and smoother than before and the car stays plastered to the ground. Stuff doesn't go flying around the cab like it used to. It's night and day compared to the way it drove a week ago. I can only imagine the way it would drive had I done sway and strut bars, front and back lower member braces, daizen bushings and oh... some serious coilovers! But then again I may have all that planned for the next couple pay checks.. stay tuned!
I know exactly what you're talking about and there was a TSB put out for this issue. I've researched it after having the same issue back four years ago when I bought my 02 GS. Let me verify the scenario and tell me if I'm hitting the right notes.. when you back up, as in out of a parking spot, and come to a stop as you press down the brake, you hear a "clink." Maybe once if you come out directly parallel, maybe twice if at an angle (this is weighted pressure on each section) You then proceed forward and come to your first stop. You again apply braking and hear a loud "pop, clunk" noise. You're right, this is the infamous pad shifting noise for which a fitting kit was made. I haven't actually installed it since I've yet to move on to brakes-my next project, but I hear it's the fix.
I assume that's what you did to fix the issue. My problem sounds like brakes the more I test my car but I could be wasting more money in trial and error. I will keep the community updated with my results..
Sounds like it's your own fault for blowing $1500 on crap that probably didn't need to be replaced. I woulda stopped at ball joints. But you're probably on the right track w/ the brakes. If you're at all mechanically inclined, do em yourself and save some $$$. Take em apart and inspect them, clean, and lubricate. In particular, you'll want to check for a frozen slide pin. Otherwise, good luck replacing more parts
Actually I'm not totally steaming mad for replacing what I did because my GS now drives like a dream (except for the noise). Many shakes, rattles, the "floaty feeling" and several other small annoyances are now completely absent! I can take turns and corners much faster and smoother than before and the car stays plastered to the ground. Stuff doesn't go flying around the cab like it used to. It's night and day compared to the way it drove a week ago. I can only imagine the way it would drive had I done sway and strut bars, front and back lower member braces, daizen bushings and oh... some serious coilovers! But then again I may have all that planned for the next couple pay checks.. stay tuned!
I assume that's what you did to fix the issue. My problem sounds like brakes the more I test my car but I could be wasting more money in trial and error. I will keep the community updated with my results..
10-26-10 | 08:55 PM
#53
10-27-10 | 06:09 AM
#54
Rookie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: VA
^^^Yeah I think you're right Zippy. The more I test it out around parking lots and try different things to make the noise, the more obvious it becomes that it's brakes. It's obvious too when you look at it that I need new rotors/pads, hopefully not calipers cause then Im just gonna upgrade the whole system. Any suggestions on that? I want to go with Brembo but don't want to spend $3k+ on a brake kit.
12-06-10 | 10:37 PM
#56
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
Caster bushings set
Does anybody know if TM Engineering
Is still open? I put an order in last 11/22/10
And they haven't responded back. I sent a couple of email and still no email back from them. I cancled my order. So if anybody can help me can somebody tell me where I can get them somewhere else.
Thanks.
Is still open? I put an order in last 11/22/10
And they haven't responded back. I sent a couple of email and still no email back from them. I cancled my order. So if anybody can help me can somebody tell me where I can get them somewhere else.
Thanks.
02-19-11 | 04:24 PM
#59
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
From: MO
Bushing sets
I ordered all the bushing sets from TM engineering and just got them. I can't wait to put them on but I'm waiting for TM to get the Bilsein HD shocks to me so I can do everything at once. He had the Bilstein sports in stock but had to order the HD's.
I searched all the posts and liked the reasoning of the guys who put the Bilstein HD's on. I want near OEM ride but with lifetime warranty.
The reason for this whole bushing /shocks rig-a-ma-roll is
I had driven my wife's GS300 which has the 60mph shimmy. I first looked into the forum for an answer to this. We drove about 150 miles on a trip- some of it at "spirited" speeds and I did not like the way the car almost felt out of control during or right after going into a dip in the road. Frankly, it kinda freaked my 5hiznit.
I'd also been seeing posts about the lower ball joints going out and since I have about 122k miles on this 98 GS300- I thought I'd just do those too. I don't want my wife having a calamity at highway speeds.
So-I've got lower ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings, and the big bushing set that includes the big LCA bushings.
Hope those Bilsteins come soon- I really want to see how they change the ride and/or eliminate the 60mph shimmy.
Any recommendations of things to do while I'm doing all this?? Any help is greatly appreciated.
TIA,
Rich in St. Louis
I searched all the posts and liked the reasoning of the guys who put the Bilstein HD's on. I want near OEM ride but with lifetime warranty.
The reason for this whole bushing /shocks rig-a-ma-roll is
I had driven my wife's GS300 which has the 60mph shimmy. I first looked into the forum for an answer to this. We drove about 150 miles on a trip- some of it at "spirited" speeds and I did not like the way the car almost felt out of control during or right after going into a dip in the road. Frankly, it kinda freaked my 5hiznit.
I'd also been seeing posts about the lower ball joints going out and since I have about 122k miles on this 98 GS300- I thought I'd just do those too. I don't want my wife having a calamity at highway speeds.
So-I've got lower ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings, and the big bushing set that includes the big LCA bushings.
Hope those Bilsteins come soon- I really want to see how they change the ride and/or eliminate the 60mph shimmy.
Any recommendations of things to do while I'm doing all this?? Any help is greatly appreciated.
TIA,
Rich in St. Louis
