llhelix

Nice reminder! I'll have to go back and apply a bit of paint too.

sinister2c

So I decided to open the rear LCA mount hole bigger and sliding the arm in to fix the camber. This is exactly what Miami Chassis does.



Use this grinder with stone bits


Hole opened up.




Bolted up and slide in.

ijulmimi

what are the functions of these suspension rods and chamber kit? f i were to do hellaflush on my 2IS will these be a must have?

fknISC808

iTrader: (1)

they will allow you to correct camber, or to obtain more camber, depending on what you do to your car. these are not needed in order to "HellaFlush" your car. If you want it to look a certain way and really call your car HellaFlush" then yes, these are essential pieces to go with your drop.

ijulmimi

^ thanks dude. i dont know how to explain the stance i am aiming but i want something similar to chrIS250 when he had his SSR SP1.
i'll keep that in mind. i read somewhere here that having camber kit reduces the uneven tire wear..but m not sure with the suspension rods. i assume they help on maintaining the correct camber since they are adjustable, yes?

fknISC808

iTrader: (1)

Im not aware of chrIS250's setup but the camber kit does help reduce uneven tire wear when installed properly. It also helps when you correct camber versus applying more negative camber. Daily driven tires do not last long on heavily cambered cars. Just put it this way, if you do not correct camber, you will have to service your tires more often. Oh and make sure you get an alignment.

ijulmimi

^thanks for the info dude. appreciate ur help

B16da9

iTrader: (7)

I'll probably do this to mine, any tips before I decide to tackle this?

mahcah

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for sharing! I will definitely do this for my front and get that camber in green

B16da9

iTrader: (7)

Your front tires will thank you, mine are wearing out evenly which is great.

mahcah

iTrader: (3)

I should have done this long time ago. But I just put on some new T1R's up front so time for camber kit

sinister2c

pretty straight forward, have a few of those grinding bits ready. they wear quick if you dont keep the grinder moving. I opened the hole up until the edge of the bolt head. you can see the mark on when you take the bolt off.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

should be releasing my arms soon as well for those that want to wait. I would also add that camber is less important that proper toe correction. I am running -2.2 on the ISF and still have flat tread wear in the rear. I have new toe links installed that maximize arc length and reduce the amount of toe steer on bumps. Its all about the dynamic system behavior, not just the static alignment.

carchitect

iTrader: (1)

DO NOT perform this. This damages the rear crossmember. The mod is irreversible. Not only that but I'd hate to keep having to readjust the alignment everytime I go over a set of railroad tracks. I'm sure that bolt will not hold that arm in place when I'm at the road coarse driving the hell out of it.

The rear control arms for the IS300 have adjustable camber. If you're looking into making your rear camber adjustable, use the camber bolts and control arms for the IS300. Yeah, the ISx50 uses 5-link rear and the IS300 use wishbone rear but the rear control arms are adjustable.

Also using any sort of spherical rod end will be a harsher ride and will wear out from the dirt and grime getting in. You may use a teflon reinforced inner race equipped rod end (which costs more) but it too will eventually wear out.

carchitect

iTrader: (1)

The front caster is not adjustable but there is a positive 0.5 deg and negative 0.5 deg lower bracket that can be purchased. I've replaced both my front caster brackets with 0.5 deg positive brackets.

I've been eyeing the IS300 SPC adjustable ball joints for a while. Its good to see someone has already used them with success. I'm debating about installing a set on the next set of tires I'll be purchasing.