rcJten

Don't forget to remove the ring around the ball joint before removal.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I have a question on the front ball joints. At least on the F I have found that the stud tapers are not the same as the IS300. Your sure there are no issues there?
Fig

jnguyen87

iTrader: (2)

FIGS any updates on that rear camber toe arms?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

MEGA arms are released for the ISX50. Toe links are done as well, just need to put them up on the site.
http://figsengineering.com/suspension.htm#arms

vinsanity2

iTrader: (2)

quick question, when installing the SPC ball joints.. did you guys follow the instructions for the is300 where you have to line up the sliding mechanism to the small punched hole on the arm?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

No body going to address the ball joint taper question?

vinsanity2

iTrader: (2)

the stud is just a little bit smaller than the original one, but it seems to fit in just right.. There was no play that I could tell when put through... I did have to buy a huge 3/8" washer though because the nut was pretty small

I also used these tools shown below to easily remove the ball joint from the arm without having to hammer.. Once it was pressed hard enough there was a loud snap and the ball joint popped right off the arm.

The tools are from autozone.. one is the regular ball joint press and the other is a Honda oem adapters..

rcJten

Align the sliding mechanism to move parallel to the "R" or "L" arrow as these indicate the outward direction towards the wheel.

As mentioned above, there is a slight difference in taper with the is300 ball joint, but once installed (with a large washer) it was secure with no discernible wiggle or movement.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

You must not understand the difference between a taper engagement and a washer when it matters.

If the tapers are not perfect...it will see cyclic stress everytime you accelerate and brake. It will egg out the soft aluminum upright and it will cause the ball joint to fail. This is just unsafe.

I would check again, make sure you are not moments away from a disaster.

B16da9

iTrader: (7)

I'll try to take mine apart this weekend and take a picture for you to see if there is any wear on it.

I can tell you that last time I had my wheels balanced I took a pry bar (I get it done at a friend’s shop) and jammed the bar between the spindle and a-arm to look for any type of ball joint play and I found none.

The reason for me doing that was that a long time ago I had a honda accord that I used aftermarket ball joints on and the ball join poped out of its socket 2 weeks later. Ever since then I check my ball joints regularly and I use (mooge) ball joints ever since then.

rcJten

I understand your concern. This seems like a great opportunity for you to step in and design a set of proper adjustable ball joints for the isX50s. I asked around allot before deciding to install the ball joints, and to this date I have not heard of any failures.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I will have to make a new tapered stud for my upper control arms I am working on, that is already in motion.

I would just hesistate to use a mis adapted ball joint as its a critical item.

HtownImprt

iTrader: (2)

are these A arms for the IS300 and will fit the ISx50s? i'm actually more interested in these since they seem to be less work than the SPC ball joints

Stevoe88

iTrader: (1)

Alright after reading through this thread there are some things I want to clarify.

1. ISX50's come with toe adjustment from factory and is not necessary for non-track use (mainly stance and holding alignment specs)

2. The only arms I will need are Front/Rear Camber Kit, and rear upper arms to make sure alignment specs do not get misaligned for maximum tire life? (So only the only thing affecting tire wear would be camber alone)

3. Figs, is your suspension arm kit for every alignment spec (toe, caster, camber) or is it just one?

Thanks!

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

Well number 1. is not really valid because while you can adjust where the toe link pivots, you cannot adjust howlong it is. Two different things. The lower you go, the more it becomes a bump arc inward. Longer links means more control over bump steer and tire wear.

Also if you are trying to correct camber at the top...you are losing tire clearance.

My rear control arms impact toe and camber. They are a full travel solution, not just an alignment spec solution (which is static at one chosen point.) The also provide more tire clearance and take out camber (which adds toe out) at the correct location in the suspension geometry.

Can I say it again...TOE wears tires, not camber alone.