Why do fully threaded coilovers allow adjustment by the spring perch, too?
03-27-10, 05:53 PM
#1
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Why do fully threaded coilovers allow adjustment by the spring perch, too?
I'm talking specifically about the Stance ones.
What are the advantages to adjusting the height by the spring perch as well as by the bottom?
This is what stance says about it:
When adjusting the height, do not adjust the height by the spring perch. All height adjustments should be done through the lower mounting bracket.
Adjusting the spring perch will change the spring preload and should only be done when corner weighting and balancing the car.
Explain?
What are the advantages to adjusting the height by the spring perch as well as by the bottom?
This is what stance says about it:
When adjusting the height, do not adjust the height by the spring perch. All height adjustments should be done through the lower mounting bracket.
Adjusting the spring perch will change the spring preload and should only be done when corner weighting and balancing the car.
Explain?
03-27-10, 06:37 PM
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They adjust two completely different things.
Adjusting the lower body makes the shock shorter/taller, while adjusting the upper perch changes preload.
Preload changes how spring a spring is. I tend to screw the upper perch so that the spring is snug, but not actually putting much tension on it; zero preload.
Lowering the spring so that there is free space will change where the piston sits inside the damper. Going too low will result in your car constantly hitting the bumps stops which will dramatically shorten your shocks life.
As well as too much preload will change not only change where weight is distributed across the chassis, but also make the spring more taught and feel bouncy.
To make everything even more complicated, shotening the shock body too much will change handling due to decreased control arm droop. But that is another subject... This pic kind of explains it.
(rear drivers side wheel is in the air.)
Adjusting the lower body makes the shock shorter/taller, while adjusting the upper perch changes preload.
Preload changes how spring a spring is. I tend to screw the upper perch so that the spring is snug, but not actually putting much tension on it; zero preload.
Lowering the spring so that there is free space will change where the piston sits inside the damper. Going too low will result in your car constantly hitting the bumps stops which will dramatically shorten your shocks life.
As well as too much preload will change not only change where weight is distributed across the chassis, but also make the spring more taught and feel bouncy.
To make everything even more complicated, shotening the shock body too much will change handling due to decreased control arm droop. But that is another subject... This pic kind of explains it.
(rear drivers side wheel is in the air.)
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