Drift Suspension set up: Lets Discuss
05-14-10, 08:26 AM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ny
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is some good info in here guys. I know actually setting wise is all driver preference.
I'm thinking my next direct steo will be all the bushings I can get my hands on, sway bars and probably before welding my diff i will pick up a spare emergency diff. We've been welding s-chassis diffs up here forever and i haven't seen one fail yet but also if they do they are only like $100 where even used open diffs for our cars are like $400 and not found easily locally.
I'm building more of a street car here, just some fun drifting so idk if I want to go as crazy as 18/12 springs but I know that right now the obdy roll my car has would see my side skirts and front bumper ripped off with the first serious initiation and that would be on a perfectly glass smooth track which doesnt exist around here.
I'm thinking my next direct steo will be all the bushings I can get my hands on, sway bars and probably before welding my diff i will pick up a spare emergency diff. We've been welding s-chassis diffs up here forever and i haven't seen one fail yet but also if they do they are only like $100 where even used open diffs for our cars are like $400 and not found easily locally.
I'm building more of a street car here, just some fun drifting so idk if I want to go as crazy as 18/12 springs but I know that right now the obdy roll my car has would see my side skirts and front bumper ripped off with the first serious initiation and that would be on a perfectly glass smooth track which doesnt exist around here.
10-24-10, 04:13 AM
#17
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Stockton, CA
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bumping an old thread.
I'm new to SCs and I'm wondering, is caster adjustable (no not rear)? I'm coming from 240s and AE86s macpherson setups so this double wishbone stuff is new to me. Tension rods are magical, but they're non-existent on these cars. But it's pretty great that camber has a lot of adjustment with stock arms.
Is there any way to max out caster? I had an idea of running the control arm bushings with the fat side in the rear, to bring the control arms forward, if that makes sense. But I've already installed them, and that was annoying.
I'm new to SCs and I'm wondering, is caster adjustable (no not rear)? I'm coming from 240s and AE86s macpherson setups so this double wishbone stuff is new to me. Tension rods are magical, but they're non-existent on these cars. But it's pretty great that camber has a lot of adjustment with stock arms.
Is there any way to max out caster? I had an idea of running the control arm bushings with the fat side in the rear, to bring the control arms forward, if that makes sense. But I've already installed them, and that was annoying.
10-24-10, 03:16 PM
#18
chiming in..
my setup.
pbm coilovers, tm engineering poly steering bushings, prothane polybushings front upper, lower control arms, battle version traction bar, battleversion toe bar, pbm subframe spacers, cut steering knuckles.
advice. I would grab the subframe spacers and steering rack bushings from battle version they are the stiffest. also I like my PBM coilovers for the price I don't think you can beat it. you can definitely save money on a welded dif but if you drive it everyday that will get super old. also I attached my dif to the frame solid with the pbm spacers, not sure if thats how it was supposed to go but it didn't do anything really but make a lot of noise so, don't do that! Apparently your drivetrain needs as much flex/room to move as possible.
my setup.
pbm coilovers, tm engineering poly steering bushings, prothane polybushings front upper, lower control arms, battle version traction bar, battleversion toe bar, pbm subframe spacers, cut steering knuckles.
advice. I would grab the subframe spacers and steering rack bushings from battle version they are the stiffest. also I like my PBM coilovers for the price I don't think you can beat it. you can definitely save money on a welded dif but if you drive it everyday that will get super old. also I attached my dif to the frame solid with the pbm spacers, not sure if thats how it was supposed to go but it didn't do anything really but make a lot of noise so, don't do that! Apparently your drivetrain needs as much flex/room to move as possible.
10-25-10, 04:07 AM
#19
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually the diff moving and rattling causes the teeth in the differential to strip. That's why Titan motorsports makes solid diff mounts for the jza80 but i think they will work on the sc. As for me I'm still in the buildup stage.. Poly bushings up front, stance gr+ pro (helper springs in back) swaybar bushings. I have plans for b ver trac rods and a large order from pbm.
10-25-10, 08:59 AM
#20
It really depends on how much power your running. I know the supra guys would solid mount thier diffs cause that diff does move around, but if you solid mount your diff and subframe, you will get a lot of noise coming threw.
Most of you guys still want to daily your car and dont have 800hp, so your better off going with the solid subframe mounts to get the best traction and tight feel, and leave the diff mounts stock so you dont get all that clunking and crappyness.
Ive got about 650hp and left my diff mounts stock. Its not a daily but I hate clunking noises in my cars. If i break the diff mounts, then ill make some.
Let me just make a suggestion as to what I think a good setup is:
A decent set of coil overs or shock and spring setup (depends on the roads you drive)
BVer cut knuckles
BVer rack bushings
BVer rear toe links
BVer rear traction links
BVer rear subframe mounts
Ether weld the diff (cheeper) or get a diff.
If your alignment settings start getting inconsistant, then go for control arm bushings.
Thats the setup ive run on 3 of my sc's and the first 2 had stock motors but still drifted great, just not much power.
Most of you guys still want to daily your car and dont have 800hp, so your better off going with the solid subframe mounts to get the best traction and tight feel, and leave the diff mounts stock so you dont get all that clunking and crappyness.
Ive got about 650hp and left my diff mounts stock. Its not a daily but I hate clunking noises in my cars. If i break the diff mounts, then ill make some.
Let me just make a suggestion as to what I think a good setup is:
A decent set of coil overs or shock and spring setup (depends on the roads you drive)
BVer cut knuckles
BVer rack bushings
BVer rear toe links
BVer rear traction links
BVer rear subframe mounts
Ether weld the diff (cheeper) or get a diff.
If your alignment settings start getting inconsistant, then go for control arm bushings.
Thats the setup ive run on 3 of my sc's and the first 2 had stock motors but still drifted great, just not much power.
10-25-10, 11:13 AM
#21
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You drift at 650 Alex? I'm I'm trying to figure out how much power I want from mine. I was lookin at 500 with 285's out back. Any way guess it depends on preference. Mines mire of a race car that I'll cruz in every so often.. Also Alex, why no rucas?
Last edited by d1trainee; 10-25-10 at 11:16 AM.
10-27-10, 02:01 PM
#25
I'm running 650hp with 285's nitto nto5's. 265's up front. Works good, dont really need 650 to spin 285's but it does make it fun around the irwindale bank.
No rear sway right now. Running 16kg springs front and rear so took the rear sway off. I havent tried it with it on so im not sure how much different it is.
No ruca's cause no one makes a good set. The ebay sets are just plain crappy. Ikeya formula is too expencive for what they are, over priced ebay china crap.
If you have problems with getting the correct rear alignment specs, its best to just cut and weld the stock camber arms shorter then it is to replace the uppers with something that sucks.
No rear sway right now. Running 16kg springs front and rear so took the rear sway off. I havent tried it with it on so im not sure how much different it is.
No ruca's cause no one makes a good set. The ebay sets are just plain crappy. Ikeya formula is too expencive for what they are, over priced ebay china crap.
If you have problems with getting the correct rear alignment specs, its best to just cut and weld the stock camber arms shorter then it is to replace the uppers with something that sucks.
10-27-10, 07:52 PM
#26
Lead Lap
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No ruca's cause no one makes a good set. The ebay sets are just plain crappy. Ikeya formula is too expencive for what they are, over priced ebay china crap.
If you have problems with getting the correct rear alignment specs, its best to just cut and weld the stock camber arms shorter then it is to replace the uppers with something that sucks.
If you have problems with getting the correct rear alignment specs, its best to just cut and weld the stock camber arms shorter then it is to replace the uppers with something that sucks.
10-27-10, 08:00 PM
#27
Pole Position
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running 650hp with 285's nitto nto5's. 265's up front. Works good, dont really need 650 to spin 285's but it does make it fun around the irwindale bank.
No rear sway right now. Running 16kg springs front and rear so took the rear sway off. I havent tried it with it on so im not sure how much different it is.
No ruca's cause no one makes a good set. The ebay sets are just plain crappy. Ikeya formula is too expencive for what they are, over priced ebay china crap.
If you have problems with getting the correct rear alignment specs, its best to just cut and weld the stock camber arms shorter then it is to replace the uppers with something that sucks.
No rear sway right now. Running 16kg springs front and rear so took the rear sway off. I havent tried it with it on so im not sure how much different it is.
No ruca's cause no one makes a good set. The ebay sets are just plain crappy. Ikeya formula is too expencive for what they are, over priced ebay china crap.
If you have problems with getting the correct rear alignment specs, its best to just cut and weld the stock camber arms shorter then it is to replace the uppers with something that sucks.
That didn't come out right. Why no b ver rucas? Are they that hard to make?
10-28-10, 07:39 AM
#28
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ny
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its just a waste of time and resources to make and test something that is going to be to exspensive for the general populous and have maybe 4-5 sales period.
Thats bad business right there
Thats bad business right there
10-29-10, 10:31 AM
#30
To me suspension is the last and most important part of a car. WHen you build a motor, you get on the dyno and tune it. Suspension is the same way, it needs to be tuned to get the car the way you want it. Thats what I do, I make your car feel and work the way you want it to. Suspension is a black art. There is no one way of setting up a car because each driver is different.
Thats also the problem with selling suspension. You can not express the way a car feels over the internet. You have to take a car for a ride to know what it feels like. But just ask anyone who has run bver suspension or brought their car in to get corner ballanced, how much of an improvement it is.