Static Toe: 0 toe to -.5" total in 1 week!?
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From Feb 2010 to June 2010 (about 5000 miles) the car gradually worked its way from 0 toe to 1/2 total toe out. Monday I went back to the alignment rack to get everything checked out, re-aligned, and to make sure everything was snug before my trip and they set everything back to 0. During my 3 day trip I put about 600 miles on the car and most importantly ran an autocross with it and the car was terrible when I left, nearly undriveable. Steering wheel crooked, visible toe out on both sides. I drove it straight to the alignment shop. Both times the toe was out very evenly on both sides.
Here's what is modified on the car (everything was done in Feb of this year):
-H&R coilovers-locking perches locked
-Exact motorsports RCA (F&R)-tightened to 100 ft/lbs on Monday with red locktite, they were at maybe 50 ft/lbs when I got back
-Daizen control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, stock 05 GS caster arms with stock bushings still in place at that location
-stock swaybars & endlinks
-new inner and outer balljoints
I never had this problem for the years when the car had a standard Eibach/KYB setup on it and otherwise stock.
Any ideas? The car is at the shop right now and we're puzzled.
Thanks
Here's what is modified on the car (everything was done in Feb of this year):
-H&R coilovers-locking perches locked
-Exact motorsports RCA (F&R)-tightened to 100 ft/lbs on Monday with red locktite, they were at maybe 50 ft/lbs when I got back
-Daizen control arm bushings, steering rack bushings, stock 05 GS caster arms with stock bushings still in place at that location
-stock swaybars & endlinks
-new inner and outer balljoints
I never had this problem for the years when the car had a standard Eibach/KYB setup on it and otherwise stock.
Any ideas? The car is at the shop right now and we're puzzled.
Thanks
#4
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How is your caster reading?
If the bolts were loose when you got back, then you're going to introduce play between the RCA and the hub assembly. Most RCAs seems to have some kind of loose tolerance for the removable sleeves. That's why I made mine so that it's somewhat of a tighter fit.
If the bolts were loose when you got back, then you're going to introduce play between the RCA and the hub assembly. Most RCAs seems to have some kind of loose tolerance for the removable sleeves. That's why I made mine so that it's somewhat of a tighter fit.
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GSteg, thanks already for your follow up and your interest in helping me get the car straightened out.
1999 GS400
I will get the specs from last Monday and Friday tomorrow when they open, but here are the specs from Feb. these numbers are all very close or identical to where the were Monday too after they reset everything, but I want to be exact so I will still post those when I get them.
btw, ride height dropped on the right front over the course of the week. I did not measure it from Feb to June, but I did from last Monday to Friday. Do you know if these car "bump out" under compression? If so that could be what it did on that side, or part of the problem, even though that would be A LOT of toe out for that small of a loss in height. I think he said about .25", but I will confirm. Both sides are toeing out pretty evenly.
Here are the specs from 2/17/10
LF:
-1.6
7.5
+.05"
RF:
-1.6
7.7
+.05"
LR:
CAMBER, -.6
TOE, -.00"
RR:
CAMBER, -.6
TOE, +.04"
TOTAL TOE: .03"
THRUST ANGLE: -.04
Thanks again
1999 GS400
I will get the specs from last Monday and Friday tomorrow when they open, but here are the specs from Feb. these numbers are all very close or identical to where the were Monday too after they reset everything, but I want to be exact so I will still post those when I get them.
btw, ride height dropped on the right front over the course of the week. I did not measure it from Feb to June, but I did from last Monday to Friday. Do you know if these car "bump out" under compression? If so that could be what it did on that side, or part of the problem, even though that would be A LOT of toe out for that small of a loss in height. I think he said about .25", but I will confirm. Both sides are toeing out pretty evenly.
Here are the specs from 2/17/10
LF:
-1.6
7.5
+.05"
RF:
-1.6
7.7
+.05"
LR:
CAMBER, -.6
TOE, -.00"
RR:
CAMBER, -.6
TOE, +.04"
TOTAL TOE: .03"
THRUST ANGLE: -.04
Thanks again
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CORRECTION:
This car has been aligned so many times in the past few months. After the autocross it was over 1"!! toe out.
But the latest update is that I ordered 2 longer 12.9 bolts from Fastenal along with some grade 8 washers and everything is going back together this afternoon. A quick check proved that the longer bolts I have to serve as the longer bolt on each side will actually fit in the other end too, so I'm going to get 2 more bolts and washers coming so I have some more thread engagement.
This car has been aligned so many times in the past few months. After the autocross it was over 1"!! toe out.
But the latest update is that I ordered 2 longer 12.9 bolts from Fastenal along with some grade 8 washers and everything is going back together this afternoon. A quick check proved that the longer bolts I have to serve as the longer bolt on each side will actually fit in the other end too, so I'm going to get 2 more bolts and washers coming so I have some more thread engagement.
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#9
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Most cars tend to TOE OUT when the suspension is compressed due to increased angle of the tie rod ends relative to the fixed location of the steering rack. Some cars this difference is linear. Some are progressive depending on the suspension design.
I dropped my GS4 with Tanabe NF210's a couple months ago and got an alignment shortly afterwards after giving the springs sometime to settle. After some more daily driving and a trip to Chicago and back, Im curious if the springs settled some more and if my alignment has changed. The car drives straight as an arrow, but specs can still be off because the wheels will naturally fight each other evenly so there is no pull either way.
I wish I had access to an alignment rack often because Id align it every oil change if I could
I dropped my GS4 with Tanabe NF210's a couple months ago and got an alignment shortly afterwards after giving the springs sometime to settle. After some more daily driving and a trip to Chicago and back, Im curious if the springs settled some more and if my alignment has changed. The car drives straight as an arrow, but specs can still be off because the wheels will naturally fight each other evenly so there is no pull either way.
I wish I had access to an alignment rack often because Id align it every oil change if I could
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Hello guys, thanks for the input. Its at the alignment rack again and my contact told me that he thinks he has found the problem. The Daizen control arm bushing set that was installed earlier this year by another shop may have been packaged wrong, and here's the reason. The lower control arm bushing fits snugly around the inside of the arm, but there is slop between the ID of the bushing and the OD of the sleeve. Has anyone else seen this? I bought them from TM Engineering and I just sent them a note to find out if they have ever seen this issue.
Does anyone know if there are any differences, other than the caster arm bushings, between the earlier GS kit and the later? Part number G2-2002 vs. G2-2002A. Does anyone know or recall if new sleeves are included with their new bushing set?
Thanks again
Does anyone know if there are any differences, other than the caster arm bushings, between the earlier GS kit and the later? Part number G2-2002 vs. G2-2002A. Does anyone know or recall if new sleeves are included with their new bushing set?
Thanks again
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