good arms
07-15-10, 09:51 PM
#7
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race car... i wanted full adjustability. like my s13 but i guess thats not going to happen... i found some stuff at rhd japan. I dont like megan..... id rather pay the extra and get super now tierod ends from rhd. lookin at cutting knuckles 16.5mm and putting in jun tierods with super now ends... so i can get like 55* angle. super now claims with their cut tierod ends you can get 45* without cutting. so maybe ill get those and cut knuckles aswell. i saw pics of a soarer in Canada they claimed 70* of angle after cutting in their shop.
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07-15-10, 11:17 PM
#8
race car... i wanted full adjustability. like my s13 but i guess thats not going to happen... i found some stuff at rhd japan. I dont like megan..... id rather pay the extra and get super now tierod ends from rhd. lookin at cutting knuckles 16.5mm and putting in jun tierods with super now ends... so i can get like 55* angle. super now claims with their cut tierod ends you can get 45* without cutting. so maybe ill get those and cut knuckles aswell. i saw pics of a soarer in Canada they claimed 70* of angle after cutting in their shop.
you dont want nor do you need to cut knuckles for increased angle for any type of real road racing. in fact cutting the knuckles will give you more angle but make your steering progressive instead of linear how it should be. basically the more you turn the more the wheels will turn. feels kind of weird at first.
for drifting you can do it because it doesnt really matter. you want to get max angle and have your steering wheel a bit away from full lock.
suspension setups on s-chassis and the sc are completely different thus what works there doesnt necessarily will work or even necessary on the SC.
07-16-10, 08:05 AM
#9
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Yea its a drift car. I realize the suspension is different than a 240s. However the pricipal remains the same and thats full adjustability. Slamming the car on stance gr2's is going to change alot about the alignment like camber and maybe toe. also i want a lil bit of toe in the rear since this will be driven primarely on a track drifting so tire wear isnt really a issue either. camber settings in the rear, roll center adjustment, caster up front. it all plays a role in drifting and each one is important.
07-16-10, 08:27 AM
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If i am thinking of the drift car you were speaking of from canada he is currently having issues with over centering (i think) where the tierod actually goes beyond the point it should on the knuckle and you cant turn the wheel back.
07-16-10, 01:26 PM
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Is it the oz designs one? Theres a member here who took 15mm off his knuckles and he gets good angle. So i figure take 15 off And use adjustable ends so i can find that limit and then back em off a bit. Sounds logical right? I mean is the stock suspension that good? Ive seen those daizen camber kits and bushings. What do most people do, battle ver. Toe and traction rods and then putin new poly bushings in? Im for sure getting jic rods and super now rod ends, and stance gr2 coils. Affer that im trying to figure things out. Btw i hate pressing new bushings cuz i suck at it.
Last edited by d1trainee; 07-16-10 at 01:30 PM.
07-16-10, 05:03 PM
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For angle the stock suspension sucks. For angle I'd do knuckles and Tie rods inner/outer. So far I havent run into anything the factory camber adjustment can't fix for me. Stock arms with nice bushings seem to be cool. replace subframe bushings and do toe rods and traction arms in the rear. That can all be done before getting into real serious money
07-16-10, 05:35 PM
#13
For angle the stock suspension sucks. For angle I'd do knuckles and Tie rods inner/outer. So far I havent run into anything the factory camber adjustment can't fix for me. Stock arms with nice bushings seem to be cool. replace subframe bushings and do toe rods and traction arms in the rear. That can all be done before getting into real serious money
07-17-10, 09:38 PM
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I'm pretty new to SC300 and if you searched you'd see what's out there.
I'm currently in the process of just getting my alignment within the specs I want.
I think I'm just going to get the RLCAs cut shorter to dial camber out (more POSITIVE) and then get the BV toe arms for toe adjustment in the rear.
The front surprisingly has adjustable caster stock and can go pretty high if you want it to.
I'm currently in the process of just getting my alignment within the specs I want.
I think I'm just going to get the RLCAs cut shorter to dial camber out (more POSITIVE) and then get the BV toe arms for toe adjustment in the rear.
The front surprisingly has adjustable caster stock and can go pretty high if you want it to.