Cross-Drilled and Slotted Rotors
07-14-10, 11:58 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Cross-Drilled and Slotted Rotors
I needed new rotors so I decided to go with these. I went with a different set of brake pads as well. So far they are pretty good and the brake dust is no where near what it was. The stopping power is a whole lot better than the oem rotors.
I haven't touched these rims in over 2 weeks and this is how they look with hardly any brake dust on them.
I haven't touched these rims in over 2 weeks and this is how they look with hardly any brake dust on them.
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07-14-10, 01:37 PM
#11
Saying that the quality of tires is the only part of the equation that matters in stopping is like saying that fuel injectors are the only part is horsepower that matters. Important yes, but not everything.
If the brakes are maxing out the tires (IE ABS is coming on at the same time) then he is correct. However, cross drilled and slotted rotors are better at heat disappation and less prone to warping with heavy use than standard. This also makes for less brake fade. Normally to really feel the difference it would require dangerously aggressive driving, steep downhill grade or autocross.
All that aside, if the pads that he is using is producing less dust, no ear wretching noises and a more positive brake feel; I would also be interested in what he's using.
More pictures please, and did you do the fronts and the rears, or just the fronts? About how much did it run you?
If the brakes are maxing out the tires (IE ABS is coming on at the same time) then he is correct. However, cross drilled and slotted rotors are better at heat disappation and less prone to warping with heavy use than standard. This also makes for less brake fade. Normally to really feel the difference it would require dangerously aggressive driving, steep downhill grade or autocross.
All that aside, if the pads that he is using is producing less dust, no ear wretching noises and a more positive brake feel; I would also be interested in what he's using.
More pictures please, and did you do the fronts and the rears, or just the fronts? About how much did it run you?
07-14-10, 01:49 PM
#12
Saying that the quality of tires is the only part of the equation that matters in stopping is like saying that fuel injectors are the only part is horsepower that matters. Important yes, but not everything.
If the brakes are maxing out the tires (IE ABS is coming on at the same time) then he is correct.
If the brakes are maxing out the tires (IE ABS is coming on at the same time) then he is correct.
really.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
"heat dissipation" is irrelevant in street use too, again the stockers are more than sufficient.
So to answer the previous poster... yes, for street driving, BBKs are absolutely, 100%, just for looks.
For track use they might well offer improved fade resistance (though I'd suggest slotted....drilled is the worst of all possible worlds for any application except a show car) but your normal stopping distance (ie how many feet it takes to make a single normal stop) will not be improved at all.
07-14-10, 01:52 PM
#13
You can remove the brake system entirely and it's still the tires that stop the car. (they'll just take longer)
it's called friction.
The only thing that actually stops the car is the friction between the tire and the road.
Once you engage ABS (which even the stock brakes will do) then adding "more" braking force is 100% wasted force since you're at the limit of the road/tire interface.
As always I strongly suggest this article for a good understanding of what each part of the braking system can (and can not) do for you...and why upgrading your brakes will never reduce your stopping distance if your stock ones were good enough to engage ABS or lock the tires up (and any stock brakes on a modern car should be able to do that)
http://www.scirocco.org/faq/brakes/p...n/pfpage1.html
07-14-10, 01:53 PM
#14
"stopping power" is exactly the same as it was before.
The brakes don't stop the car, the tires do.
It probably feels different, but it'll stop in exactly the same distance it did before... just like physics requires.
No.
You can remove the brake system entirely and it's still the tires that stop the car. (they'll just take longer)
it's called friction.
The brakes don't stop the car, the tires do.
It probably feels different, but it'll stop in exactly the same distance it did before... just like physics requires.
No.
You can remove the brake system entirely and it's still the tires that stop the car. (they'll just take longer)
it's called friction.
If you take a car and remove the brake system...well...I'm not sure about you but I don't know many cars driving around with no brake systems.
Saying that the quality of tires is the only part of the equation that matters in stopping is like saying that fuel injectors are the only part is horsepower that matters. Important yes, but not everything.
If the brakes are maxing out the tires (IE ABS is coming on at the same time) then he is correct. However, cross drilled and slotted rotors are better at heat disappation and less prone to warping with heavy use than standard. This also makes for less brake fade. Normally to really feel the difference it would require dangerously aggressive driving, steep downhill grade or autocross.
If the brakes are maxing out the tires (IE ABS is coming on at the same time) then he is correct. However, cross drilled and slotted rotors are better at heat disappation and less prone to warping with heavy use than standard. This also makes for less brake fade. Normally to really feel the difference it would require dangerously aggressive driving, steep downhill grade or autocross.
YesIt's the sum of tires + brake pads + rotors + caliper cylinder force. BBKs with more pots have more stopping power, but it's only useful if the rotors and pads have friction between their contact, and the tires can hold traction and not break friction to change from static friction to kinetic friction, which is less than static. So you have to take into account all those. In this case though, because he is on stock wheels, probably stock tires: therefore although there may be more friction between rotor + pad, it's useless because tires won't be able to slow the car any faster or in less distance.
Just had to say. The new rotors look nice! Are the pads you got better than the low dust pads?
Last edited by JDKane527; 07-14-10 at 02:03 PM.
07-14-10, 02:01 PM
#15
It's the sum of tires + brake pads + rotors + caliper cylinder force. BBKs with more pots have more stopping power, but it's only useful if the rotors and pads have friction between their contact, and the tires can hold traction and not break friction to change from static friction to kinetic friction, which is less than static.
And since the OEM brakes can already engage ABS any additional force is 100% wasted force. You are already at the limit of the tires with stock brakes, so a BBK will do exactly nothing to improve stopping distance... that was the point.
If you are tracking the car there might be other reasons a BBK would be useful... but better stopping distance isn't one of them...and other than looks none of those things would matter in normal street driving.