All this-and still the shake???
09-28-10 | 03:47 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: FL
GS300ToM take the caliper off and press the brakes to see if the piston pushes out.. and then push it back in.. the bolts shud slide back with while the piston is being moved! ( use a c clamp or a caliper brake tool ) ---
Do you mean the slider pins or whatever they are called?
I was telling a coworker about my problems, he said to look at the motor mounts,and then kindly did with me. He said the drivers side has WAY too much movement.
I got word back from my new shop. They said that BOTH motor mounts are shot. They are fixing it with Toyota OEM ones tomorrow. They said the parts were IN STOCK at the dealership which is a usual sign that the sell alot of them (which means maybe many others have this problem too?).
They said the tranny mount looks good and I can't afford to swing that part right now anyway. That is something I can easily change out myself at home at a later date if need be.
I'll keep you posted if this fixes the dreaded shake or not.
He did also say my rear Brembo rotors are shot. Even though the brakes feel great, other than a SLIGHT pulsation in the pedal. Front ones need to be turned he said. I don't want to pour more money in while this thing shakes itself apart. We'll see what the motor mounts do.
$397.00 for both Toyota OEM mounts and labor.
Do you mean the slider pins or whatever they are called?
I was telling a coworker about my problems, he said to look at the motor mounts,and then kindly did with me. He said the drivers side has WAY too much movement.
I got word back from my new shop. They said that BOTH motor mounts are shot. They are fixing it with Toyota OEM ones tomorrow. They said the parts were IN STOCK at the dealership which is a usual sign that the sell alot of them (which means maybe many others have this problem too?).
They said the tranny mount looks good and I can't afford to swing that part right now anyway. That is something I can easily change out myself at home at a later date if need be.
I'll keep you posted if this fixes the dreaded shake or not.
He did also say my rear Brembo rotors are shot. Even though the brakes feel great, other than a SLIGHT pulsation in the pedal. Front ones need to be turned he said. I don't want to pour more money in while this thing shakes itself apart. We'll see what the motor mounts do.
$397.00 for both Toyota OEM mounts and labor.
09-29-10 | 08:46 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: FL
We'll I can't believe it, it is FIXED!
Gentlemen, I can't believe it. I owe my buddy at work big time, that said it's my motor mounts. I did have a Tire Kingdom guy say the mount was bad, but I doubted him since he wasn't a "Lexus" mechanic. The shop said my both were SHOT and almost fell apart! I am eating my original word from the post big time (-I doubt it is a motor mount, car idles smooth as silk in park and in gear.)!!!
What I thought was smooth, and what Lexus says is smooth is two different things. It seemed smooth before (though in the mornings, it had a SLIGHT vibe to the motor, but I thought it was just warming up. You really couldn't feel the motor/shifter once it got warmed up), it in INSANELY SMOOTH NOW. Once you turn the key over, it is immediately apparent (the new motor mounts of course)! The engine is so quiet, I can barely tell it's on! It has fixed my "60" shake completely. I took it on the highway for a 20 min ride to be safe.
On a side note, the car just hit 101K miles, I NEVER thought these could go bad that soon. It's funny because the guy at the shop laughed when he told me the dealer had the motor mounts in stock. He said they NEVER keep parts like that AT THE LOCAL DEALER on a car this old unless it's a common problem. I did some reading online and found out that alot of cars over 60K miles are probably driving on bad motor mounts. I believe it now. My car is a two owner car I got with 62K miles on it three years ago.
He also said I have a bent wheel and he moved that rim to the back(it is bent on the inside of the rim, which neither I or my wife remember doing, but I say yellow paint transfer marks on the lip-heck-I think it was a valet in a parking lot. Would explain the yellow paint). I will replace it in a month or two.
I can not explain how smooth the car is now, It's "LS" smooth now guys.
The one dirt in the face is during my test drive, My engine light just came on (never did that to me on THIS car). I don't think it's from them, but I'll ask them tomorrow if they had to unplug anything to replace the mounts.
Lessons learned:
-If you don't know how much motor movement is normal when testing the mounts, ask several other informed people
-The dealership didn't catch this, nor the inner tie rod ends that were causing my steering to go to **** and having me there for weekly alignments (inner and outer tie rods bad cause this in my opinion), so if you're not happy with their performance, find another little mechanic that is good. These guys were pros.
-Read, read, and read about "THe Shake". NO ONE will care more about this issue than you.
-The car drives like a new lexus with 20's, but I had to spend A LOT of money to do it. I'll never recommend a GS of this generation to ANYONE-too maintenance intensive
-My suggestions to replace to fix "The Shake" and any steering wandering issues are this in this order:
--Motor mounts if your car is over 60K miles
--Inner and outer tie rod ends (very easy to replace in my opinion!)
--Ball Joints
--Daizen steering rack bushing set
--Have a great alignment shop (luckily, after three different shops, I found one-and it's NOT the dealer) and get an alignment after these parts are replaced.
Things I don't think I needed right now:
--Daizen control arm bushing set (even though NOW my car rides so nice, I don't think the shake was really affected by this. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, take my words for what they are worth)
--New Lexus shocks
--Daizen sway bar bushing kit
--Steering pretensioner adjustment
I don't check this site too much, but I did just set up the email alert so I can respond once you post here. I think that way everyone can see our posts and it will help you in your troubleshooting. I wish I had a digital video camera to show you the before and after movement of what motor mount movement is SUPPOSED to look like, but no-gots.
What I thought was smooth, and what Lexus says is smooth is two different things. It seemed smooth before (though in the mornings, it had a SLIGHT vibe to the motor, but I thought it was just warming up. You really couldn't feel the motor/shifter once it got warmed up), it in INSANELY SMOOTH NOW. Once you turn the key over, it is immediately apparent (the new motor mounts of course)! The engine is so quiet, I can barely tell it's on! It has fixed my "60" shake completely. I took it on the highway for a 20 min ride to be safe.
On a side note, the car just hit 101K miles, I NEVER thought these could go bad that soon. It's funny because the guy at the shop laughed when he told me the dealer had the motor mounts in stock. He said they NEVER keep parts like that AT THE LOCAL DEALER on a car this old unless it's a common problem. I did some reading online and found out that alot of cars over 60K miles are probably driving on bad motor mounts. I believe it now. My car is a two owner car I got with 62K miles on it three years ago.
He also said I have a bent wheel and he moved that rim to the back(it is bent on the inside of the rim, which neither I or my wife remember doing, but I say yellow paint transfer marks on the lip-heck-I think it was a valet in a parking lot. Would explain the yellow paint). I will replace it in a month or two.
I can not explain how smooth the car is now, It's "LS" smooth now guys.
The one dirt in the face is during my test drive, My engine light just came on (never did that to me on THIS car). I don't think it's from them, but I'll ask them tomorrow if they had to unplug anything to replace the mounts.
Lessons learned:
-If you don't know how much motor movement is normal when testing the mounts, ask several other informed people
-The dealership didn't catch this, nor the inner tie rod ends that were causing my steering to go to **** and having me there for weekly alignments (inner and outer tie rods bad cause this in my opinion), so if you're not happy with their performance, find another little mechanic that is good. These guys were pros.
-Read, read, and read about "THe Shake". NO ONE will care more about this issue than you.
-The car drives like a new lexus with 20's, but I had to spend A LOT of money to do it. I'll never recommend a GS of this generation to ANYONE-too maintenance intensive
-My suggestions to replace to fix "The Shake" and any steering wandering issues are this in this order:
--Motor mounts if your car is over 60K miles
--Inner and outer tie rod ends (very easy to replace in my opinion!)
--Ball Joints
--Daizen steering rack bushing set
--Have a great alignment shop (luckily, after three different shops, I found one-and it's NOT the dealer) and get an alignment after these parts are replaced.
Things I don't think I needed right now:
--Daizen control arm bushing set (even though NOW my car rides so nice, I don't think the shake was really affected by this. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, take my words for what they are worth)
--New Lexus shocks
--Daizen sway bar bushing kit
--Steering pretensioner adjustment
I don't check this site too much, but I did just set up the email alert so I can respond once you post here. I think that way everyone can see our posts and it will help you in your troubleshooting. I wish I had a digital video camera to show you the before and after movement of what motor mount movement is SUPPOSED to look like, but no-gots.
Last edited by Vincenza V; 10-05-10 at 04:19 PM.
09-30-10 | 09:53 PM
#21
V,
What did this set you back for parts and labor? I am going to give this a shot next week....
I have done everything you have and still get the 'shake' around 62 MPH...
Any idea what the steps are to replace the mounts?
thanks in advance...
What did this set you back for parts and labor? I am going to give this a shot next week....
I have done everything you have and still get the 'shake' around 62 MPH...
Any idea what the steps are to replace the mounts?
thanks in advance...
Gentlemen, I can't believe it. I owe my buddy at work big time, that said it's my motor mounts. I did have a Tire Kingdom guy say the mount was bad, but I doubted him since he wasn't a "Lexus" mechanic. The shop said my both were SHOT and almost fell apart! I am eating my original word from the post big time (-I doubt it is a motor mount, car idles smooth as silk in park and in gear.)!!!
What I thought was smooth, and what Lexus says is smooth is two different things. It seemed smooth before (though in the mornings, it had a SLIGHT vibe to the motor, but I thought it was just warming up. You really couldn't feel the motor/shifter once it got warmed up), it in INSANELY SMOOTH NOW. Once you turn the key over, it is immediately apparent (the new motor mounts of course)! The engine is so quiet, I can barely tell it's on! It has fixed my "60" shake completely. I took it on the highway for a 20 min ride to be safe.
On a side note, the car just hit 101K miles, I NEVER thought these could go bad that soon. It's funny because the guy at the shop laughed when he told me the dealer had the motor mounts in stock. He said they NEVER keep parts like that AT THE LOCAL DEALER on a car this old unless it's a common problem. I did some reading online and found out that alot of cars over 60K miles are probably driving on bad motor mounts. I believe it now. My car is a two owner car I got with 62K miles on it three years ago.
He also said I have a bent wheel and he moved that rim to the back(it is bent on the inside of the rim, which neither I or my wife remember doing, but I say yellow paint transfer marks on the lip-heck-I think it was a valet in a parking lot. Would explain the yellow paint). I will replace it in a month or two.
I can not explain how smooth the car is now, It's "LS" smooth now guys.
The one dirt in the face is during my test drive, My engine light just came on (never did that to me on THIS car). I don't think it's from them, but I'll ask them tomorrow if they had to unplug anything to replace the mounts.
Lessons learned:
-If you don't know how much motor movement is normal when testing the mounts, ask several other informed people
-The dealership didn't catch this, nor the inner tie rod ends that were causing my steering to go to **** and having me there for weekly alignments (inner and outer tie rods bad cause this in my opinion), so if you're not happy with their performance, find another little mechanic that is good. These guys were pros.
-Read, read, and read about "THe Shake". NO ONE will care more about this issue than you.
-The car drives like a new lexus with 20's, but I had to spend A LOT of money to do it. I'll never recommend a GS of this generation to ANYONE-too maintenance intensive
-My suggestions to replace to fix "The Shake" and any steering wandering issues are this in this order:
--Motor mounts if your car is over 60K miles
--Inner and outer tie rod ends (very easy to replace in my opinion!)
--Ball Joints
--Daizen steering rack bushing set
--Have a great alignment shop (luckily, after three different shops, I found one-and it's NOT the dealer) and get an alignment after these parts are replaced.
Things I don't think I needed right now:
--Daizen control arm bushing set (even though NOW my car rides so nice, I don't think the shake was really affected by this. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, take my words for what they are worth)
--New Lexus shocks
--Daizen sway bar bushing kit
--Steering pretensioner adjustment
I don't check this site too much, but if you have any questions, feel free to email me at coshana@hotmail.com. I wish I had a digital video camera to show you the before and after movement of what motor mount movement is SUPPOSED to look like, but no-gots.
What I thought was smooth, and what Lexus says is smooth is two different things. It seemed smooth before (though in the mornings, it had a SLIGHT vibe to the motor, but I thought it was just warming up. You really couldn't feel the motor/shifter once it got warmed up), it in INSANELY SMOOTH NOW. Once you turn the key over, it is immediately apparent (the new motor mounts of course)! The engine is so quiet, I can barely tell it's on! It has fixed my "60" shake completely. I took it on the highway for a 20 min ride to be safe.
On a side note, the car just hit 101K miles, I NEVER thought these could go bad that soon. It's funny because the guy at the shop laughed when he told me the dealer had the motor mounts in stock. He said they NEVER keep parts like that AT THE LOCAL DEALER on a car this old unless it's a common problem. I did some reading online and found out that alot of cars over 60K miles are probably driving on bad motor mounts. I believe it now. My car is a two owner car I got with 62K miles on it three years ago.
He also said I have a bent wheel and he moved that rim to the back(it is bent on the inside of the rim, which neither I or my wife remember doing, but I say yellow paint transfer marks on the lip-heck-I think it was a valet in a parking lot. Would explain the yellow paint). I will replace it in a month or two.
I can not explain how smooth the car is now, It's "LS" smooth now guys.
The one dirt in the face is during my test drive, My engine light just came on (never did that to me on THIS car). I don't think it's from them, but I'll ask them tomorrow if they had to unplug anything to replace the mounts.
Lessons learned:
-If you don't know how much motor movement is normal when testing the mounts, ask several other informed people
-The dealership didn't catch this, nor the inner tie rod ends that were causing my steering to go to **** and having me there for weekly alignments (inner and outer tie rods bad cause this in my opinion), so if you're not happy with their performance, find another little mechanic that is good. These guys were pros.
-Read, read, and read about "THe Shake". NO ONE will care more about this issue than you.
-The car drives like a new lexus with 20's, but I had to spend A LOT of money to do it. I'll never recommend a GS of this generation to ANYONE-too maintenance intensive
-My suggestions to replace to fix "The Shake" and any steering wandering issues are this in this order:
--Motor mounts if your car is over 60K miles
--Inner and outer tie rod ends (very easy to replace in my opinion!)
--Ball Joints
--Daizen steering rack bushing set
--Have a great alignment shop (luckily, after three different shops, I found one-and it's NOT the dealer) and get an alignment after these parts are replaced.
Things I don't think I needed right now:
--Daizen control arm bushing set (even though NOW my car rides so nice, I don't think the shake was really affected by this. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, take my words for what they are worth)
--New Lexus shocks
--Daizen sway bar bushing kit
--Steering pretensioner adjustment
I don't check this site too much, but if you have any questions, feel free to email me at coshana@hotmail.com. I wish I had a digital video camera to show you the before and after movement of what motor mount movement is SUPPOSED to look like, but no-gots.
10-01-10 | 08:49 AM
#22
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: FL
Pizdets17_It was $397.00 for OEM parts from Toyota and Labor. They were $140 each side, and the rest was labor. My buddy actually only charged me $370.00-so it was THE BEST $370.00 I EVER spent on my car. If you've done everything I had up to that point, I think it's your mounts man. What is your mileage on the GS? I felt this shake as soon as 62K miles. It was violent then too. This is THE MOST maintenance intensive car I have ever owned. My 5.0 and Trans Am were way more problem free than this car.
As far as the steps, I say forget it if you don't have a lift. I don't think jackstands raise the car up high enough to get leverage on the motor mount bolts. They are hard to take out from what I hear. I think it's too much of a pain to attempt in your driveway in my opinion.
As far as the steps, I say forget it if you don't have a lift. I don't think jackstands raise the car up high enough to get leverage on the motor mount bolts. They are hard to take out from what I hear. I think it's too much of a pain to attempt in your driveway in my opinion.
Last edited by Vincenza V; 10-05-10 at 04:21 PM.
10-01-10 | 08:52 AM
#23
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: FL
Pizdets17-what rims are those, the new GS 18's? They look sick! I love the look of my 20's but I have the ride. I will definetly get OEM 18's next time. I have to take a pic of my car and have an avatar pic. Been ASHAMED of it and that's why I haven't until now.
10-01-10 | 09:11 AM
#24
they're 3gs rims. My car just hit 68k miles. Just did steering bushings from daizen last night and the sway bushings, handles better, shimmy almost gone but vibration still there. Next week doing the ball joints and the daizen caster arm kit.
10-01-10 | 09:42 AM
#27
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: FL
The castor arm/control arm bushing swap is a royal PITA! I did it and my own timing belts. I'd rather do the whole timing belt service (belts, crankshaft seal, waterpump, tensioner, etc...) any day of the week than the control/castor arm kit. I used an air chisel, press and everything.
Please wear safety glasses and gloves bro. **** goes flying when you are chiseling out the bushing sleeves! Even using the press, the control arms/castor arms don't like to stay still when doing that. You can pinch a finger when they move.
Please wear safety glasses and gloves bro. **** goes flying when you are chiseling out the bushing sleeves! Even using the press, the control arms/castor arms don't like to stay still when doing that. You can pinch a finger when they move.
10-01-10 | 10:08 AM
#28
Im gonna use a press at a shop, never done anything even close to this so Im scared, but the shops around here want $1300 to put the bushings in fckers. Yes 3gen gs wheels
The castor arm/control arm bushing swap is a royal PITA! I did it and my own timing belts. I'd rather do the whole timing belt service (belts, crankshaft seal, waterpump, tensioner, etc...) any day of the week than the control/castor arm kit. I used an air chisel, press and everything.
Please wear safety glasses and gloves bro. **** goes flying when you are chiseling out the bushing sleeves! Even using the press, the control arms/castor arms don't like to stay still when doing that. You can pinch a finger when they move.
Please wear safety glasses and gloves bro. **** goes flying when you are chiseling out the bushing sleeves! Even using the press, the control arms/castor arms don't like to stay still when doing that. You can pinch a finger when they move.
10-01-10 | 11:32 AM
#29
Dude, don't bother. It's so not worth it. I highly recommend doing what I did: do all the work yourself to get the control arms off. Take em to a shop, pay em $50 to press the new bushings in (takes about an hour) and go back home to re-install. That whole removing bushings and pressing em back in is a huge PITA. And for $50 it just ain't worth most people's time to do it at home.
10-01-10 | 11:39 AM
#30
Im going to a place that lets you rent their press and doing the removal/reinstall at home. Press costs $15/hr to use
Dude, don't bother. It's so not worth it. I highly recommend doing what I did: do all the work yourself to get the control arms off. Take em to a shop, pay em $50 to press the new bushings in (takes about an hour) and go back home to re-install. That whole removing bushings and pressing em back in is a huge PITA. And for $50 it just ain't worth most people's time to do it at home.