Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

Anyone ever cut 1 coil off of F sport springs?

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Old 09-23-10, 09:57 PM
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lexusis305
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looks good and ride good ,but know let me see your ride ?
Old 09-23-10, 10:31 PM
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GSteg
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Cutting springs get a bad reputation because most people can't do it right. There is nothing wrong with cutting springs if you've done your homework. You cannot just mark and spot, cut it, and expect great results.

If I had to cut springs, I would not go more than 5% of the total length on a linear spring. More than that, I might as well get new springs. Progressive springs will be a trickier, but doable.

Heating springs is the worst thing you can do so NEVER do that.
Old 09-23-10, 10:41 PM
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Thanks you some body that dont hate
Originally Posted by GSteg
Cutting springs get a bad reputation because most people can't do it right. There is nothing wrong with cutting springs if you've done your homework. You cannot just mark and spot, cut it, and expect great results.

If I had to cut springs, I would not go more than 5% of the total length on a linear spring. More than that, I might as well get new springs. Progressive springs will be a trickier, but doable.

Heating springs is the worst thing you can do so NEVER do that.
Old 09-23-10, 11:25 PM
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Micaiah
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Originally Posted by Kurtz
Progressive springs are designed to have a variable rate, essentially being soft initially, and getting firmer as the spring compresses.

Here's a picture showing a linear spring and a progressive one-
snip
OooooOoooOOooooh!! I get it now!!

Thanks Kurtz. I always learn from you. Thanks for posting that.
Old 09-24-10, 04:19 AM
  #20  
Kurtz
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Originally Posted by GSteg
Cutting springs get a bad reputation because most people can't do it right. There is nothing wrong with cutting springs if you've done your homework. You cannot just mark and spot, cut it, and expect great results.

If I had to cut springs, I would not go more than 5% of the total length on a linear spring. More than that, I might as well get new springs. Progressive springs will be a trickier, but doable.

Heating springs is the worst thing you can do so NEVER do that.


Thing is, even if you do "do it right" it's still not as good as buying a spring actually designed for that height.

The link I posted gives a decent overview of why that's the case.

Will it be "good enough" if done right? If you're not real picky, probably yeah. Will it be as good as if you had just ponied up a few bucks for a properly engineered part? Nope.

The link even explains why it's worse with a progressive spring-

The primary problem with cutting the coil on progressive springs is that in most cases you'll be forced to cut coils from the "hard" end of the spring. This will make the spring as a whole effectively soft, resulting in a jouncy ride, bad handling, a boat-like roll while cornering and bottoming out over imperfections in the road

Now... the "don't be a hater!" guy is rolling on some goofy big rims (20s or 22s depending on which post of his was a typo in another thread) so he's already on uncomfortable really low-profile tires... and probably not taking corners at much speed either... and likely going really slowly over or avoiding any defects in the road since those rubber-bands of tires won't offer much rim protection... so he might well never notice these problems his hack-job introduced... someone on more reasonable sized tires actually putting the car through some paces would be more likely to.

Naah... as your own sig says, buy quality once, or use crap forever. Cut springs are crap compared to buying one actually meant for your application.

Last edited by Kurtz; 09-24-10 at 04:22 AM.
Old 09-24-10, 04:22 AM
  #21  
IXI187IXI
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yea cutting a progressive spring is not idea if the f sport springs are progressive. i could see cutting a linear spring since the spring rate in those never change. once you cut a progressive spring, you completely **** the spring rates.
Old 09-24-10, 05:45 AM
  #22  
ScKcBc
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yea, I'm just going to leave them. I'm going to get a set of KW V3's in the spring anyway so for the winter, I'll just leave the car at regular F-sport height. It's probably better for rubbing and ground clearance issues anyway. I'm already going to be the only idiot driving around on 20" vossens for the winter. I hope we dont get too much snow!!
Old 09-24-10, 07:48 AM
  #23  
GSteg
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Originally Posted by Kurtz
Thing is, even if you do "do it right" it's still not as good as buying a spring actually designed for that height.

The link I posted gives a decent overview of why that's the case.

Will it be "good enough" if done right? If you're not real picky, probably yeah. Will it be as good as if you had just ponied up a few bucks for a properly engineered part? Nope.

The link even explains why it's worse with a progressive spring-

Of course it's never as good as buying a spring that's already designed for the height, but sometimes you cannot get the ride you're looking for, and a set of [high] quality coilover is out of reach. It's a compromise you make, but it's doable job. If you're tracking, by all means get a new set of springs but if you're just driving around the city, most likely you're not going to be too nit picky about performance. The amount of people on stiff 14k/10k springs claiming their ride is 'smooth' is enough for me to confirm that

The primary problem with cutting the coil on progressive springs is that in most cases you'll be forced to cut coils from the "hard" end of the spring. This will make the spring as a whole effectively soft, resulting in a jouncy ride, bad handling, a boat-like roll while cornering and bottoming out over imperfections in the road
I recognize this quote from Richard Howe. One thing he's gotten wrong is that the spring will get even stiffer, not softer. An issue with cutting progressive spring is that in the end, you're going to get an even bigger spread in spring rates. You can cut the 'soft' side and reduce the spread, but most progressive springs are wound so that the diameter becomes smaller to seat onto the shock's perches. At least he got it right when he said you're forced to cut from the 'hard' side.

If you do want to take on the risk with a progressive spring, you HAVE to find your way to a spring dyno. This is why many fail at cutting progressive springs...because they lack proper tooling. You can do without the dyno with linear springs and get close enough results.

I don't advocate cutting springs in general because most people seems to cut well beyond the limit, but those who do it safely can get pretty good results
Old 09-24-10, 07:51 AM
  #24  
GSteg
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Originally Posted by IXI187IXI
yea cutting a progressive spring is not idea if the f sport springs are progressive. i could see cutting a linear spring since the spring rate in those never change. once you cut a progressive spring, you completely **** the spring rates.
Well cutting any spring will increase the rate, even linear springs. They're simply torsional bars wounded differently.
Old 09-24-10, 07:53 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RpmSteve
yea, I'm just going to leave them. I'm going to get a set of KW V3's in the spring anyway so for the winter, I'll just leave the car at regular F-sport height. It's probably better for rubbing and ground clearance issues anyway. I'm already going to be the only idiot driving around on 20" vossens for the winter. I hope we dont get too much snow!!

Good idea. It's probably the best thing to do, especially for resale value. The price drops like a rock with cut springs, even if you have F-Sports.
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