Anyone ever cut 1 coil off of F sport springs?
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I'm about to pickup F sport springs for the winter before I do KW V3's in the spring. I'm curious to know if anyone has ever cut just 1 coil off in the front? They seem to barely lower the car in the front from the pictures I've seen? What do you guys think, bad idea?
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Attachment 186871i cut the front and rear no diff. in the ride on my fspot springs one full coil with 275 in rear and 10.5 and 1inch spacer due is f rear brakes
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Yikes.
ANYWAY.. to the original poster- either wait until you buy the coilovers and can adjust the height how you like, or buy a set of springs that put the car at the height you want in the first place, rather than trying to Macguyver a set to a different length than it was engineered for.
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Progressive springs are designed to have a variable rate, essentially being soft initially, and getting firmer as the spring compresses.
Here's a picture showing a linear spring and a progressive one-
http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/...ngvseibach.jpg
Notice how the coils change along the progressive spring? Each one is there for a purpose, to give the spring what the engineers who designed it think is the ideal, softer, starting rate and the ideal, firmer, ending rate, and a proper progression along the way.
Now along comes some redneck with a saw (or even worse, a cutting torch) and decides "Aww, hell, it'll be fine if I just whack some of it off! It's not like there's any REASON they made it exactly this length with exactly this many coils, right!"
And speaking of torches... heat the spring too much and you're extra screwed (and possibly walking after a while)... why? the metal in those springs was properly tempered when manufactured... after you heated em way up then randomly left them to cool? Not so much anymore.
Here's a site with a nice explanation of some of the physics of why cut springs are bad in general, and he's only covering a linear spring-
http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/cutting-springs
Things get even wonkier cutting a progressive rate spring, but hopefully that gives you an idea.
Anyway, you guys are driving $30-50 thousand dollar cars...not an 82 CRX... if you want a lower car there's a myriad of choices that accomplish that correctly without being outrageously expensive.
Here's a picture showing a linear spring and a progressive one-
http://www.wildweasel.ca/HowTo/Auto/...ngvseibach.jpg
Notice how the coils change along the progressive spring? Each one is there for a purpose, to give the spring what the engineers who designed it think is the ideal, softer, starting rate and the ideal, firmer, ending rate, and a proper progression along the way.
Now along comes some redneck with a saw (or even worse, a cutting torch) and decides "Aww, hell, it'll be fine if I just whack some of it off! It's not like there's any REASON they made it exactly this length with exactly this many coils, right!"
And speaking of torches... heat the spring too much and you're extra screwed (and possibly walking after a while)... why? the metal in those springs was properly tempered when manufactured... after you heated em way up then randomly left them to cool? Not so much anymore.
Here's a site with a nice explanation of some of the physics of why cut springs are bad in general, and he's only covering a linear spring-
http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/cutting-springs
Things get even wonkier cutting a progressive rate spring, but hopefully that gives you an idea.
Anyway, you guys are driving $30-50 thousand dollar cars...not an 82 CRX... if you want a lower car there's a myriad of choices that accomplish that correctly without being outrageously expensive.
Last edited by Kurtz; 09-23-10 at 09:07 PM.