funglenn

iTrader: (10)

need some help, and searching only helped to calm my horror when grease starting oozing out--aparently we are supposed to have grease under the end link boot.

I tried to remove the end links to install the F sport waybar in the rear. The nut started turning, but the bold spins with the nut. When I tried a clamp on the inner part while I turned the nut, I seemed to get the bolt out a bit more, but the end link starting oozing grease.

I got nervous and was able to retorque the end link. But did I damage the end link when the grease came out? The rubber boot seems ok, but I am not sure.

How the heck do I get the end link off to install the new sway bar? The directions i have found don't really explain well. Is there a better way to stop the bolt from turning?

Should I just go to the dealer?
Thanks

kuuqi

It's just a metal bolt. The grease is really just there to prevent it from seizing (which unfortunately for my car, my LCA bolt going through my shocks seized for no reason). Just get some PB blaster, spray where you need it to be, take it off, replace and bolt it back up. If it isn't in a million pieces, it isn't broken

Shahryar

I'm dealing with the same thing OP: http://shahryar.net/2011/03/14/faile...y-2008-is-350/

06isDriver

yeah, I had a little grease squeeze out when I changed my coilovers. It'll be alright if it's all still in one piece.

huch

Same thing happened to me... I decided to ditch the end link all together and get new ones. When Lexus quoted me $120 for each end link, I lol'd in their face and bought these:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/2-REAR-Sway-Bar-L...#ht_1428wt_906

I didn't need to mess with removing the endlinks from the bar at all... just pull out the old bar with end links, put these end links on the new bar, torque em up and re-install. I've been running these for about 4 months now with no problems at all. I check them out every month, and everything was good.

Bigrahizzl

iTrader: (8)

i was in the same problem i had to take the endlinks out. I had some grease come out when i was reinstalling the bar but i think it was fine. But im having serious clunking and knocking going over bumps from the driver side rear. Its driving me nuts. I heard its the bar sliding in between the bushing. I need new bushings, hopefully this fixes the problem

Shahryar

Thanks for sharing this - that price isn't too bad, but a little nervous about using a non-oem part. How would much OEM cost? any links?

although this post makes me think perhaps I shouldn't worry:

huch

I mentioned the price of OEM from my dealership in my last post ($120/each), you can find OEM used ones on ebay for around $35ish + shipping.

Honestly, I was sceptical too until I got them, they're just sturdy as my oem ones. When I was installing them, one side wasn't lining up, so I had to pound them in place with a mallet....they survived.

But hey, if you want the comfort of knowing its an OEM then get some used ones. Otherwise it'll be brand new aftermarket either from these guys or something like Moog.

calvin2376

iTrader: (2)

The grease that came out is just lube to aid the movement (prevent it from seizing up) of the end of the bolt inside the rubber boot. This happened to me as well when I installed my rear sway bar - in trying to clamp down the bolt to keep it from spinning, I inadvertently created a small perforation in the rubber housing which led to grease coming out.

The worst that's going to happen is that you may get some squeaking coming from the endlink/sway bar joint after all the grease has leaked out. If that happens, I'd just recommend replacing the endlinks.

And as far as removing the endlinks, it's very easy. I had to remove my sway bar along with the endlinks because the nut was too rusted on to remove. If you look at the endlink, it's very intuitive - there's only one thing holding it in place. There's a bolt that goes through the control arm and bottom of the endlink. Unscrew that bolt, slide it out and then the endlink will come out the top of the control arm. It will be wedged in there and won't come out terribly easily. I just placed the end of a screwdriver up underneath the head of the endlink and whacked at the other end of a screwdriver with a mallet till the endlink popped out the top. Putting it back in place also requires some muscle, I just tapped on the top of the endlink until it slid back in place in the groove of the control arm.

Bigrahizzl

iTrader: (8)

has anyone tried these endlinks from Ebay???? I need new endlinks but sewell is selling them for $65 each

Bigrahizzl

iTrader: (8)

are there any aftermarket endlinks for our cars?

jadeboy

iTrader: (1)

I had same problem with the clunking sound.. it turns out the bolts was not tighten enough.. I was able to torque the bolt to 62 ft-lb (oem spec) on driver side using a torque wrench.. but was not able to torque the driver side because the bolt keeps turning (but was tighten enough to stop the clunking sound).

Anyone got a solution for this without using plier on the other side because I am afraid of causing with grease leak as posted in this thread..

Shahryar

Last week I called IAG Performance, the place that installed my Sway Bars and did my alignment in late winter, and asked if they could take a look at both again. I have the clunking sound which I'm hearing more frequently now. I also kind of wonder if something's off with my sway bar because I haven't noticed a difference - if anything, it feels like my turns aren't as stiff so I'm wondering if something is wrong with the install. I'm thinking about ordering new endlinks too so that when IAG looks at it again, maybe I can just have them swap out the endlinks (I think the said that it would be 30 minutes of labor, $40). The alignment also feels off again because my car seems to be going to the left kind of hard. Tomorrow a fellow clublexus member is getting together with me to do the oil change, I'm going to see if he can take my car out and push it hard and see if he can feel what I'm talking about. On an (I assume) unrelated issue, my ride doesn't feel smooth at higher speeds. I have had brand new tires put on (Hankook V12) about a month ago.

Bigrahizzl

iTrader: (8)

I finally got it fixed, had a frind of mine impact gun it since the bolt turns. It fixed it, dont have anymore noise.

jadeboy

iTrader: (1)

Update: The solution was to get crowfoot wrench which I attached to my Torque Bar.. was able to torque to spec.. all is good.. no clunking sound..