SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

1) does anyone know the correct order to bleed the brakes?

2) do you have to leave the ignition on to make the ABS circuitry flow (I think it is needed on certain cars.)

3) I ordered toyota OEM brake fluid from Sewell tune up kits, is that a good fluid to use.

I plan to do it the old fashion way does anyone have success not to get soft spongy breaks. How much do you crack open the bleeder for each pedal stroke?

quick123

iTrader: (2)

1. I don't know of any order to bleed the brakes (spell check)
2. You are not bleeding the ABS actuator, so no you don't need the engine on
3. Toyota fluid is what was in it to begin with, you should be fine

Just have a friend help you...old school to me is going caliper-to-caliper with a old coke bottle and tube, loosening the bleeder just a bit while your friend pumps the brakes...just make sure you don't run the master cylinder empty!

oguitar

Is this the proper way of bleeding the brakes?

The person in the car pushes on the brake while the person doing the bleeding opens the bleeder. Before the person in the car releases the brake pedal the bleeder should be closed.

Thanks for the help.

KI_GSE21

iTrader: (5)

If the brakes have been serviced regularly, you can just let the rear brake lines drip slowly. Pour in new brake fluid from the reservoir for about 2-3 separate times until you have used about 1litre of brake fluid.

There should be no need to pump the brakes while another person open and closes the brake line valves, until there are alot of dirt in the brake system and you have to pump the brakes to push those deposits out of the brake system (prevent them from plugging your master brake cylinder.

I didn't use OEM toyota/lexus fluid because they are charging way too much. Any DOT3 fluid from your local auto parts store would do the job because all DOT 3 brake fluid must comply with the transport authority's minimum wet and dry boiling temperatures. Generally speaking, all DOT3 fluids are the same except each brand varies slightly in that some may have slightly higher boiling temperatures. Again, the slightly difference in the temperatures of different brands of brake fluids is not significantly, as you won't notice the difference anyways.

Good luck!

CleverName

Per Service manual

1. Bleed master cylinder (Removing lines at reservoir..... used to remove old fluid... Personally I use to just use a turkey baster and suck it out and fill fresh before starting)
2. Bleed farthest brake from reservoir. Repeat moving closer
3. There does not seem to be a bleeder on the actuator (ABS module) like previous cars I have owned, instead the manual references the almighty "intelligent tester DLC3" connected to the bus and set to "Air Bleeding" grrrrr

Step three requiring the tester kinda stinks, but as long as you don't suck air in at the reservoir during the process you should get away with it.
(BTW:Use lots of towels around the reservoir. Brake fluid and paint are a bad mix!)

Most people don't know brakes should be regularly.
V

JMcDonald

iTrader: (2)

+1 ^^^^^ This is how I do it all the time.

oguitar

This is what I got from the maintenance manual. If you don't close the bleeder you will ingest air. 73 in. lbs seems a lot. Is this the correct torque? There must be some special torque wrench for this part. Any one have any info on this. Thanks.

3. BLEED BRAKE LINE
(a) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(b) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
(c) At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the
bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal. (d) Repeat (b) and (c) until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
(e) Tighten the bleeder plug certainly.
Torque: 8.3 N⋅m (85 kgf⋅cm, 73 in.⋅lbf)
(f) Repeat the above procedure to bleed the air out of the brake line for each wheel.