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New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???

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Old 01-07-11, 06:25 PM
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Alexus_300
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Originally Posted by quick123
Ok...looks like I have pretty much settled on using the EBC Red stuff pads, but now I will need to find a really good (but not too expensive) slotted rotor and some steel braided lines...any suggestions on these 2 items? and maybe where to purchase?
Have you read up on what I recommend to you in my earlier post? These parts cost a little up front but you won't have to replace them as often as the others. The other advantage that DBA 4000 series rotors have over other competitor is their kangaroo paw vents and the temperature paint on the leading edge of the rotor to tell you what temp your rotor has reached max. This helps you choose your pads accordingly to your driving style.
Old 01-08-11, 05:37 PM
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graphX250
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I went with these powerslot rotors and very happy with them!!
Old 01-12-11, 06:57 AM
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quick123
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Originally Posted by Alexus_300
Have you read up on what I recommend to you in my earlier post? These parts cost a little up front but you won't have to replace them as often as the others. The other advantage that DBA 4000 series rotors have over other competitor is their kangaroo paw vents and the temperature paint on the leading edge of the rotor to tell you what temp your rotor has reached max. This helps you choose your pads accordingly to your driving style.
I did get a chance to look into DBA rotors and Carbotech pads, and here is what I found:

DBA only makes the Street series rotors for the IS350, the 4000 and 5000 series look really nice and would suit my needs well if they were availible for the IS, and the HSV rotors are sick and I emailed them about possibly getting something for the Lexus, but they have not gotten back to me yet.

Carbotech seems to make a great product, but they are more all or nothing kind of pads...either street or track, nothing in between...track pads will be high dust and noisy, and pretty expensive for the hastle of only installing them for a couple track events...

The more I look into the different brands and types of pads and rotors, the more I keep thinking that it would be good to just get a pad/rotor combo that is good (not the absolute best) for the track and also suitable to be driven on the street...maybe something like the EBC redstuff pads with the Powerslot rotors graphX250 just posted...and of course updating the brake fluid and SS brake lines...
Old 01-12-11, 07:29 AM
  #19  
juice14
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graphX250: I had tose same pads and they are asweome when hot. The only problem is that they are loud as CRAP!!! when cold. LMK how i like them
Old 01-12-11, 12:14 PM
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quick123
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How about Stop Tech stainless steel brake lines? Are these reputable? Any other brands out there that make SS brake lines for the IS?
Old 01-12-11, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by quick123
I did get a chance to look into DBA rotors and Carbotech pads, and here is what I found:

DBA only makes the Street series rotors for the IS350, the 4000 and 5000 series look really nice and would suit my needs well if they were availible for the IS, and the HSV rotors are sick and I emailed them about possibly getting something for the Lexus, but they have not gotten back to me yet.

Carbotech seems to make a great product, but they are more all or nothing kind of pads...either street or track, nothing in between...track pads will be high dust and noisy, and pretty expensive for the hastle of only installing them for a couple track events...

The more I look into the different brands and types of pads and rotors, the more I keep thinking that it would be good to just get a pad/rotor combo that is good (not the absolute best) for the track and also suitable to be driven on the street...maybe something like the EBC redstuff pads with the Powerslot rotors graphX250 just posted...and of course updating the brake fluid and SS brake lines...
I'm pretty sure they make a 4000 series rotor for the IS350. Have you called carbotech and talked to them in regards to pad selection? They will change the way you think about track/street pads. As far as SS brake line goes, anything from Stoptech or Goodridge is fine.
Old 01-12-11, 04:34 PM
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lobuxracer
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I run XP10 front and XP 8 rear on my IS F. It needs them for CMP. They're fine for driving to and from the track, but they're way too grabby when cold for street use. Initial bite is very high.

I would not bother with lines. I've put them on bikes and cars since 1980, and they really make no difference at all.
Old 01-13-11, 11:09 AM
  #23  
quick123
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
I run XP10 front and XP 8 rear on my IS F. It needs them for CMP. They're fine for driving to and from the track, but they're way too grabby when cold for street use. Initial bite is very high.

I would not bother with lines. I've put them on bikes and cars since 1980, and they really make no difference at all.
That initial bite might be a bit too much, would probably put my wife through the windshield if she drove it...lol

How about noise and dust from the carbotech pads? And were these the pads you were using when your rotors showed the cracking? Just curious...

I am also not convinced that the stainless lines will make too much difference...but if I will be changing out the fluid, pads, and rotors, I might as well change them too...and after reading pulp friction, the rubber lines do pose a slight weakness in the system...couldn't hurt

*funny side note about pulp friction* My 1st car, a 1996 Saturn SC2, was the test mule for SPS (Saturn Performance Systems) and parts made for my engine and suspension were implemented to the SCR racing team cars...the same SCR team the pulp friction author raced with...
Old 01-13-11, 12:01 PM
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The Carbotech race pads do squeak pretty loudly until they get up to temperature, then they're very quiet and normal. The cracking is really from CMP's four heavy braking zones in about a 2 minute lap. Not much time to get heat out of the rotors. I found the best thing to do was brake very late and very hard to maximize the amount of time the rotors have to recover.

Rubber lines today are not the rubber lines of even the 90's. Most of the manufacturers are using kevlar braid on their rubber lines, so they're actually stronger than braided stainless and because they have the rubber anti-chafing cover, they're a lot less likely to fail catastrophically. When I worked on aircraft, we had to inspect braided lines at every phase inspection (usually quarterly depending on flight hours), and if we found more than 4 strands broken in an inch of line, it had to be replaced. I'm just not diligent enough to do this with my car. I did put them on my Supra only because they were cheaper than OEM lines...and I do inspect them, but I also hardly drive the Dawg anymore.
Old 01-13-11, 02:18 PM
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Huh...maybe I won't change out the lines, but I took the info from pulp friction as the rubber lines being a point of weakness to the hydrolic pressure (as in they allow a slight loss in pressure do to the non-rigid rubber), not that they are going to fail...but you do bring experience to the table with braided lines, and I have none...
Old 01-13-11, 03:15 PM
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yeah I wouldnt change out the lines....it'll be a hassle in the long run and I can PROMISE you wont feel a difference. Those rubber lines burst pressure they have on there today are MILES better than they were when braided lines became popular.
Old 01-14-11, 10:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Taco_Kid
one major reason for stainless braid lines on the track is to prevent debris from slicing the lines open while racing. all lines that go from hardline to spindle/caliper are rubber, etc. if i were racing spending ~$100 or so on braided lines is worth the protection.

however, if the race rules allow it, you might take some larger ID rubber fuel line, slice it open lengthwise, cover your oem lines, zip or wire tie it. this would offer some protection at a fraction of the cost.
Kevlar does a fine job of this too without the frequent inspection requirement. Really. Ever try to cut kevlar? Just like SS wire, it kills your blades in short order.

There are LOTS of things I do differently on a race car or bike than I do on a street and occasional track car or bike. The OP is not racing, only doing track weekends. As I mentioned, I've put stainless braided lines on bikes and cars since 1980, first because I believed the magazines story about the brakes feeling firmer (which I found was complete BS), then because I believed the stainless braid was more durable than rubber lines (not at all true), and now only because they're cheaper than rubber and I can custom build them from bulk lines and compression fittings (which is NOT DOT legal.)
Old 01-15-11, 01:18 PM
  #28  
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Ok...so I decided on the EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads for the front and rear...and check out this steal I got from AutoPartsDealer.com

Items:
EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads
[Part No: DP31586C - SKU: EBC-DP31586C]
$56.54 - Quantity: 1

EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads
[Part No: DP31589C - SKU: EBC-DP31589C]
$75.59 - Quantity: 1

Subtotal: $132.13
Shipping [FREE UPS Ground]: $0.00
Tax: $0.00

Order Total: $133.08


I am still looking around for some slotted rotors, and I am still waiting to hear back from DBA...will update when I decide on rotors
Old 01-25-11, 11:32 AM
  #29  
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Got the EBC pads, now just ordered a complete set of Powerslot rotors from Assaultech...Danny Spitery (Sales Manager...danny@assaultech.com) helped me with the order, making sure that not only I got the correct parts ordered, but helped with a promo code to save more $$$ and got me free shipping!
Attached Thumbnails New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???-slotted-rotors.jpg  
Old 02-28-11, 07:36 AM
  #30  
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Here is what it all looks like installed...trying to get good pics of the rotors with the stock wheels sucks, but looks awesome in person...
Attached Thumbnails New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???-picture-050.jpg   New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???-picture-049.jpg   New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???-picture-056.jpg  


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