New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???
#16
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Have you read up on what I recommend to you in my earlier post? These parts cost a little up front but you won't have to replace them as often as the others. The other advantage that DBA 4000 series rotors have over other competitor is their kangaroo paw vents and the temperature paint on the leading edge of the rotor to tell you what temp your rotor has reached max. This helps you choose your pads accordingly to your driving style.
#18
Have you read up on what I recommend to you in my earlier post? These parts cost a little up front but you won't have to replace them as often as the others. The other advantage that DBA 4000 series rotors have over other competitor is their kangaroo paw vents and the temperature paint on the leading edge of the rotor to tell you what temp your rotor has reached max. This helps you choose your pads accordingly to your driving style.
DBA only makes the Street series rotors for the IS350, the 4000 and 5000 series look really nice and would suit my needs well if they were availible for the IS, and the HSV rotors are sick and I emailed them about possibly getting something for the Lexus, but they have not gotten back to me yet.
Carbotech seems to make a great product, but they are more all or nothing kind of pads...either street or track, nothing in between...track pads will be high dust and noisy, and pretty expensive for the hastle of only installing them for a couple track events...
The more I look into the different brands and types of pads and rotors, the more I keep thinking that it would be good to just get a pad/rotor combo that is good (not the absolute best) for the track and also suitable to be driven on the street...maybe something like the EBC redstuff pads with the Powerslot rotors graphX250 just posted...and of course updating the brake fluid and SS brake lines...
#21
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
I did get a chance to look into DBA rotors and Carbotech pads, and here is what I found:
DBA only makes the Street series rotors for the IS350, the 4000 and 5000 series look really nice and would suit my needs well if they were availible for the IS, and the HSV rotors are sick and I emailed them about possibly getting something for the Lexus, but they have not gotten back to me yet.
Carbotech seems to make a great product, but they are more all or nothing kind of pads...either street or track, nothing in between...track pads will be high dust and noisy, and pretty expensive for the hastle of only installing them for a couple track events...
The more I look into the different brands and types of pads and rotors, the more I keep thinking that it would be good to just get a pad/rotor combo that is good (not the absolute best) for the track and also suitable to be driven on the street...maybe something like the EBC redstuff pads with the Powerslot rotors graphX250 just posted...and of course updating the brake fluid and SS brake lines...
DBA only makes the Street series rotors for the IS350, the 4000 and 5000 series look really nice and would suit my needs well if they were availible for the IS, and the HSV rotors are sick and I emailed them about possibly getting something for the Lexus, but they have not gotten back to me yet.
Carbotech seems to make a great product, but they are more all or nothing kind of pads...either street or track, nothing in between...track pads will be high dust and noisy, and pretty expensive for the hastle of only installing them for a couple track events...
The more I look into the different brands and types of pads and rotors, the more I keep thinking that it would be good to just get a pad/rotor combo that is good (not the absolute best) for the track and also suitable to be driven on the street...maybe something like the EBC redstuff pads with the Powerslot rotors graphX250 just posted...and of course updating the brake fluid and SS brake lines...
#22
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I run XP10 front and XP 8 rear on my IS F. It needs them for CMP. They're fine for driving to and from the track, but they're way too grabby when cold for street use. Initial bite is very high.
I would not bother with lines. I've put them on bikes and cars since 1980, and they really make no difference at all.
I would not bother with lines. I've put them on bikes and cars since 1980, and they really make no difference at all.
#23
I run XP10 front and XP 8 rear on my IS F. It needs them for CMP. They're fine for driving to and from the track, but they're way too grabby when cold for street use. Initial bite is very high.
I would not bother with lines. I've put them on bikes and cars since 1980, and they really make no difference at all.
I would not bother with lines. I've put them on bikes and cars since 1980, and they really make no difference at all.
How about noise and dust from the carbotech pads? And were these the pads you were using when your rotors showed the cracking? Just curious...
I am also not convinced that the stainless lines will make too much difference...but if I will be changing out the fluid, pads, and rotors, I might as well change them too...and after reading pulp friction, the rubber lines do pose a slight weakness in the system...couldn't hurt
*funny side note about pulp friction* My 1st car, a 1996 Saturn SC2, was the test mule for SPS (Saturn Performance Systems) and parts made for my engine and suspension were implemented to the SCR racing team cars...the same SCR team the pulp friction author raced with...
#24
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
The Carbotech race pads do squeak pretty loudly until they get up to temperature, then they're very quiet and normal. The cracking is really from CMP's four heavy braking zones in about a 2 minute lap. Not much time to get heat out of the rotors. I found the best thing to do was brake very late and very hard to maximize the amount of time the rotors have to recover.
Rubber lines today are not the rubber lines of even the 90's. Most of the manufacturers are using kevlar braid on their rubber lines, so they're actually stronger than braided stainless and because they have the rubber anti-chafing cover, they're a lot less likely to fail catastrophically. When I worked on aircraft, we had to inspect braided lines at every phase inspection (usually quarterly depending on flight hours), and if we found more than 4 strands broken in an inch of line, it had to be replaced. I'm just not diligent enough to do this with my car. I did put them on my Supra only because they were cheaper than OEM lines...and I do inspect them, but I also hardly drive the Dawg anymore.
Rubber lines today are not the rubber lines of even the 90's. Most of the manufacturers are using kevlar braid on their rubber lines, so they're actually stronger than braided stainless and because they have the rubber anti-chafing cover, they're a lot less likely to fail catastrophically. When I worked on aircraft, we had to inspect braided lines at every phase inspection (usually quarterly depending on flight hours), and if we found more than 4 strands broken in an inch of line, it had to be replaced. I'm just not diligent enough to do this with my car. I did put them on my Supra only because they were cheaper than OEM lines...and I do inspect them, but I also hardly drive the Dawg anymore.
#25
Huh...maybe I won't change out the lines, but I took the info from pulp friction as the rubber lines being a point of weakness to the hydrolic pressure (as in they allow a slight loss in pressure do to the non-rigid rubber), not that they are going to fail...but you do bring experience to the table with braided lines, and I have none...
#26
Lexus Test Driver
yeah I wouldnt change out the lines....it'll be a hassle in the long run and I can PROMISE you wont feel a difference. Those rubber lines burst pressure they have on there today are MILES better than they were when braided lines became popular.
#27
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
one major reason for stainless braid lines on the track is to prevent debris from slicing the lines open while racing. all lines that go from hardline to spindle/caliper are rubber, etc. if i were racing spending ~$100 or so on braided lines is worth the protection.
however, if the race rules allow it, you might take some larger ID rubber fuel line, slice it open lengthwise, cover your oem lines, zip or wire tie it. this would offer some protection at a fraction of the cost.
however, if the race rules allow it, you might take some larger ID rubber fuel line, slice it open lengthwise, cover your oem lines, zip or wire tie it. this would offer some protection at a fraction of the cost.
There are LOTS of things I do differently on a race car or bike than I do on a street and occasional track car or bike. The OP is not racing, only doing track weekends. As I mentioned, I've put stainless braided lines on bikes and cars since 1980, first because I believed the magazines story about the brakes feeling firmer (which I found was complete BS), then because I believed the stainless braid was more durable than rubber lines (not at all true), and now only because they're cheaper than rubber and I can custom build them from bulk lines and compression fittings (which is NOT DOT legal.)
#28
Ok...so I decided on the EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads for the front and rear...and check out this steal I got from AutoPartsDealer.com
Items:
EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads
[Part No: DP31586C - SKU: EBC-DP31586C]
$56.54 - Quantity: 1
EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads
[Part No: DP31589C - SKU: EBC-DP31589C]
$75.59 - Quantity: 1
Subtotal: $132.13
Shipping [FREE UPS Ground]: $0.00
Tax: $0.00
Order Total: $133.08
I am still looking around for some slotted rotors, and I am still waiting to hear back from DBA...will update when I decide on rotors
Items:
EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads
[Part No: DP31586C - SKU: EBC-DP31586C]
$56.54 - Quantity: 1
EBC Redstuff 3000 Series Ceramic Brake Pads
[Part No: DP31589C - SKU: EBC-DP31589C]
$75.59 - Quantity: 1
Subtotal: $132.13
Shipping [FREE UPS Ground]: $0.00
Tax: $0.00
Order Total: $133.08
I am still looking around for some slotted rotors, and I am still waiting to hear back from DBA...will update when I decide on rotors
#29
Got the EBC pads, now just ordered a complete set of Powerslot rotors from Assaultech...Danny Spitery (Sales Manager...danny@assaultech.com) helped me with the order, making sure that not only I got the correct parts ordered, but helped with a promo code to save more $$$ and got me free shipping!