New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???
#1
New style EBC slotted rotors...thoughts???
Hey everyone!
I will be looking to upgrade my rotors to a slotted style, as I have a track event coming up this summer. I know EBC is a reputable company, and they make some very good products, but I have never seen this style of slotted rotor...
Does anyone have any experience with these rotors? Or does anyone know about the pros/cons of having this style slotted rotor?
Thanks
I will be looking to upgrade my rotors to a slotted style, as I have a track event coming up this summer. I know EBC is a reputable company, and they make some very good products, but I have never seen this style of slotted rotor...
Does anyone have any experience with these rotors? Or does anyone know about the pros/cons of having this style slotted rotor?
Thanks
#3
Hey brociouz, since nobody responded to this, I went ahead and found out for myself...here is what is off the EBC website:
Ultra quiet sport slotted brake rotors
Manufactured using premium disc blanks mentioned above, the narrower multi slot design of the Ultimax sport rotor and the progressive angle at which the slots are machined creates a quiet running sport rotor that still has benefits of removing gas, dirt, water and debris and MAINTAINING parallel pad wear.
I think they look cool as well, but I think I am looking for a dedicated track rotor for track events...this looks like a daily driver slotted rotor...
Ultra quiet sport slotted brake rotors
Manufactured using premium disc blanks mentioned above, the narrower multi slot design of the Ultimax sport rotor and the progressive angle at which the slots are machined creates a quiet running sport rotor that still has benefits of removing gas, dirt, water and debris and MAINTAINING parallel pad wear.
I think they look cool as well, but I think I am looking for a dedicated track rotor for track events...this looks like a daily driver slotted rotor...
#4
Also i noticed you only have springs. If your gonna do track days & go to different tracks then put on coils that you can adjust. It will help you out way more. The last time i went out i didn't adjust my coils right & spun from body roll the coils were to soft & way stiffer than my drop spring i went to. (Took off the coils cuz I am done doing track days with my IS, want a comfy ride again) If you want i will sell you my buddy club coils. You will however need to have the front re-valved cuz mine are shot but i will hook you up with good deal.
Just sayn' from my experiences...
#5
^^ Thanks for the advise and sharing your track experience with the IS
I am at a weird stage with my IS right now, as my wife drives it every couple of days to work when she doesn't want to drive a stick (I have a couple cars, the IS is the only automatic)...so I don't want to get too aggressive with the setup yet (coils, BBK, wheels, etc...) because I know she will destroy something
As for the pain of swapping parts out for track events, I am a Service Manager at a Toyota dealership, so I have some pretty good access to lifts, tools, techs, you name it! I also have a F-150 with a trailer specifically for autocross or track events, so that always helps as well
The track events I go to are usually held by a dealership, like the last one at Roebling Road was done by Mercedes Benz of Buckhead...went there with my Dad's CLK55 AMG that has been tweaked and tuned...we had 2 days of 8am-5pm racing with only 25 cars, so we only had to stop to get gas...other events are autocross or sometimes track days at Road Atlanta or the up and coming Atlanta Motorsports Park
I will be getting my wife a 4Runner or something soon so I will have the IS to myself, and then things will get pretty crazy, but for now I need to restrain myself a bit and stay conservative...I will need some good tips on what mods do help for the track (next scheduled event is June at Roebling), but that is a whole new thread I should start soon
I am at a weird stage with my IS right now, as my wife drives it every couple of days to work when she doesn't want to drive a stick (I have a couple cars, the IS is the only automatic)...so I don't want to get too aggressive with the setup yet (coils, BBK, wheels, etc...) because I know she will destroy something
As for the pain of swapping parts out for track events, I am a Service Manager at a Toyota dealership, so I have some pretty good access to lifts, tools, techs, you name it! I also have a F-150 with a trailer specifically for autocross or track events, so that always helps as well
The track events I go to are usually held by a dealership, like the last one at Roebling Road was done by Mercedes Benz of Buckhead...went there with my Dad's CLK55 AMG that has been tweaked and tuned...we had 2 days of 8am-5pm racing with only 25 cars, so we only had to stop to get gas...other events are autocross or sometimes track days at Road Atlanta or the up and coming Atlanta Motorsports Park
I will be getting my wife a 4Runner or something soon so I will have the IS to myself, and then things will get pretty crazy, but for now I need to restrain myself a bit and stay conservative...I will need some good tips on what mods do help for the track (next scheduled event is June at Roebling), but that is a whole new thread I should start soon
#6
^^^ Nice to have all that to help with track events. As for getting ready for track days not much you can do for set-up other than coils, sways, brakes & tires. I guess you can get the under brace but really don't think that will help all that much plus your adding weight. If your gonna track more & you can trailer it than GUT THE CRAP OUT OF IT, haha the IS is way to heavy. If your gonna get more involved than just do what i am gonna do buy a track car. Then your wife can drive the IS all she wants.
I'd say camber would help a ton but nothing out yet for the front. With the hoosiers on the IS just doesn't have enough HP.(Which i am sure you know not much there in HP department. I added a full exhaust & it didn't do jack) I can put my foot to the floor out of turn & I am pushing the car in the driver seat Like Come On Go Faster. Again the weight kills it. Need to to take about 1000lbs out of it. Hehe
But good luck enjoy & have fun.
Oh another word of advice move the seat way up almost uncomfortable and use the third pedal (Push hard with your left foot) to keep you in the seat or buy a lap belt. I found the closer i was to the steering wheel the more planted i was in the slippery seats & also more control with the steering wheel.
I'd say camber would help a ton but nothing out yet for the front. With the hoosiers on the IS just doesn't have enough HP.(Which i am sure you know not much there in HP department. I added a full exhaust & it didn't do jack) I can put my foot to the floor out of turn & I am pushing the car in the driver seat Like Come On Go Faster. Again the weight kills it. Need to to take about 1000lbs out of it. Hehe
But good luck enjoy & have fun.
Oh another word of advice move the seat way up almost uncomfortable and use the third pedal (Push hard with your left foot) to keep you in the seat or buy a lap belt. I found the closer i was to the steering wheel the more planted i was in the slippery seats & also more control with the steering wheel.
#7
From my years of tracking different cars such as ITR's, IS300, GS300, and now a MKIV supra. I've found that the best course of action to go with is to upgrade your pads, Brake lines, Rotors, and Fluid. I strongly suggest that you give Disc Brake Australia a shot if you've never used them before. Look into the one piece DBA 4000 series if you're on a budget or the 5000 series for the weight saving due to the 2 piece design with the aluminum hub. I would pair this all up with a set of carbotech Xp8's pads, SS brake lines, and ATE Blue fluid. With this setup, I've never had any problems with track days until now in my supra but that's a different story all together. This setup will be very good for both track and daily driving.
Hey brociouz, since nobody responded to this, I went ahead and found out for myself...here is what is off the EBC website:
Ultra quiet sport slotted brake rotors
Manufactured using premium disc blanks mentioned above, the narrower multi slot design of the Ultimax sport rotor and the progressive angle at which the slots are machined creates a quiet running sport rotor that still has benefits of removing gas, dirt, water and debris and MAINTAINING parallel pad wear.
I think they look cool as well, but I think I am looking for a dedicated track rotor for track events...this looks like a daily driver slotted rotor...
Ultra quiet sport slotted brake rotors
Manufactured using premium disc blanks mentioned above, the narrower multi slot design of the Ultimax sport rotor and the progressive angle at which the slots are machined creates a quiet running sport rotor that still has benefits of removing gas, dirt, water and debris and MAINTAINING parallel pad wear.
I think they look cool as well, but I think I am looking for a dedicated track rotor for track events...this looks like a daily driver slotted rotor...
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#8
^^ Good stuff, thank you for your recommendations and I will check out those pads, lines, and fluid (all items I will be needing anyways)
The IS is not going to be a dedicated track car, I will be purchasing a vehicle in the next year or so specifically for the track, but in the mean time I wanted a daily driver that could also throw down at the track every once in a while...upgrading items like the lines and fluid would be good to do anyway, so those will be on the check list...
Really, I just want to be faster than my father's AMG around the track...he has about 150 BHP on me, his car is even heavier than the IS, but I know I can out handle and brake him (plus I am a better driver)
The IS is not going to be a dedicated track car, I will be purchasing a vehicle in the next year or so specifically for the track, but in the mean time I wanted a daily driver that could also throw down at the track every once in a while...upgrading items like the lines and fluid would be good to do anyway, so those will be on the check list...
Really, I just want to be faster than my father's AMG around the track...he has about 150 BHP on me, his car is even heavier than the IS, but I know I can out handle and brake him (plus I am a better driver)
#9
Why do you say that a pad intended for the track is not to be used for street driving? This is one of the biggest misconception out there where companies such as Carbotech wants to redefine this thinking. I've used alot of high end company brake pads in the past ranging from Performance Friction, Ferrodo, and Cobalt Friction and can tell you that Carbotech is on a league of their own. Their Xp8 pads is perfect for occasional heavy track use while perfectly balance for daily street use.
#10
^^ Good stuff, thank you for your recommendations and I will check out those pads, lines, and fluid (all items I will be needing anyways)
The IS is not going to be a dedicated track car, I will be purchasing a vehicle in the next year or so specifically for the track, but in the mean time I wanted a daily driver that could also throw down at the track every once in a while...upgrading items like the lines and fluid would be good to do anyway, so those will be on the check list...
Really, I just want to be faster than my father's AMG around the track...he has about 150 BHP on me, his car is even heavier than the IS, but I know I can out handle and brake him (plus I am a better driver)
The IS is not going to be a dedicated track car, I will be purchasing a vehicle in the next year or so specifically for the track, but in the mean time I wanted a daily driver that could also throw down at the track every once in a while...upgrading items like the lines and fluid would be good to do anyway, so those will be on the check list...
Really, I just want to be faster than my father's AMG around the track...he has about 150 BHP on me, his car is even heavier than the IS, but I know I can out handle and brake him (plus I am a better driver)
#11
Had these on the car for a little over a year, took about that long for them to quiet down or 'break-in' to acceptable noise levels as a daily driver. I did all four corners with 'redstuff' pads up front and 'greenstuff' pads in the rear.
Truth be told I did the rotors because they look cool, pad choice is because i am a bit of an aggressive driver on the street.
Never tracked the car, its my daily driver (learned a long time ago its too much of a hassle to track a daily driver and set it up properly for events).
Truth be told I did the rotors because they look cool, pad choice is because i am a bit of an aggressive driver on the street.
Never tracked the car, its my daily driver (learned a long time ago its too much of a hassle to track a daily driver and set it up properly for events).
#12
most race pads are made for race conditions, and these conditions are not what we find on the street. i do see pad companies that seem to expand pad use, like EBC's Bluestuff NDX. i guess its kinda like how oil companies have expanded oil ranges using multigrade. however, if i were racing i would not be using a multigrade oil nor would i be using a brake pad that says "suitable for street use". however, if the pad specs show they span the specs of other pads made for street and race then we know they will perform the duties of a "street" and a "race" pad in terms of braking, however, we also need to define "performance" metrics. for street use, dust, noise, feel, and how bad the pads cause rotor damage are metrics we should also consider for street use. the EBC Bluestuff might stop well race or street, but EBC green will stop well on the street and will feel better and have lower noise. on the track the dust,noise,feel are likely metrics we dont care so much about.
"Carbotech does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise."
http://www.therpmstore.com/carbotech/
"Carbotech does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise."
http://www.therpmstore.com/carbotech/
#15
Ok...looks like I have pretty much settled on using the EBC Red stuff pads, but now I will need to find a really good (but not too expensive) slotted rotor and some steel braided lines...any suggestions on these 2 items? and maybe where to purchase?