GSdarksol

iTrader: (4)

I
I paid about $230 for lbj's and outer tie rods shipped from Sewell..as for the labor, I haven't got a quote yet.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

Its about 2 hours of work....very simple imo....DIY job.

Here's what you need....

• Hydraulic jack
• Jack stand...do 1 side at a time
• Socket set with 17mm and 19mm long sockets
• ball joint puller (Autozone sells them for cheap...about $12)
• open end wrench set
• torque wrench (must be able to torque to 119 ft/lbs)
• needle nose pliers
• and some liquid paper to mark the threads of the inner tie rod when you remove the outer tie rod.

After you are done...get a 4-wheel computerized alignment ASAP!!!

Good luck ppl.

GSdarksol

iTrader: (4)

Thanks....I'm just afraid of running into bolts that wont budge.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

You will run into them...if you use a typical ratchet....not recommended.

I used the torque wrench...its much bigger....cranked it up to 130 ft/lbs....to remove the castle nut under the lower ball joint. OEM torque on that castle nut is 119 ft/lbs.

pete

GSdarksol

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the info again...

SidhuGs300

iTrader: (2)

I have a 2004 gs300 with 156k on it, but i don't hear any noises or anything at all with the car, and by the way the vehicle is completely stock, it is my daily driver, should i still replace lower ball joints and tie rods? Also does anyone know what else I need to do with my vehicle after the mileage that I am at and at what mileage, thank you in advance.

CPMD

iTrader: (2)

Siddhu,

Check for play on the ball joints...but if they are the original ball joints, it would be safer just to replace both front lower ball joints and front tie rods. Most probably they will have some play in them at that mileage.

SidhuGs300

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info cpmd.