Adjusting my BC Coils Dampening??
01-19-11, 08:37 AM
#31
No problem man =) good to know that everything has worked out for you. I think I am just going to purchase the bc coilovers, however did fender roll or shave your fenders IXII87IXI? If so, do you recommend a shop in PA that does it? I spoke with RT but they said they stop doing it.
01-20-11, 03:32 PM
#33
How many miles have you put since you installed them? I noticed the first week of driving them when I had them on 30/30 that it was rough but seemed to get smooth after a little "break in" period.
Rides smoother than H&R for damn sure.
Did you relube/regrease the bolts where the shocks mount to the control arms when installing?
Rides smoother than H&R for damn sure.
Did you relube/regrease the bolts where the shocks mount to the control arms when installing?
01-20-11, 03:50 PM
#34
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
01-21-11, 08:45 AM
#36
Iv'e had mine for almost 3 weeks now ~ 500 miles and still rides the same. Having coilovers you'll always have some kind of bounciness, Some guys here claim the ride quality on the BCs are pretty close to stock that's why I went with it. I have mine set at 12F and 10R still feels kinda bouncy on the regular roads I take.
Last edited by rcracer; 01-21-11 at 08:49 AM.
01-21-11, 11:40 AM
#38
Eh bounciness isn't a characteristic of a coilover setup. I have coilovers on my car and they don't bounce, but I also took the time to calculate the best spring rate that's acheiveable with my dampers and my car's weight. The concept behind 'coilovers' and a typical spring/shock system is no different from one another. Either setup can give you the ride you want as long as it's designed for it. I roll my eyes whenever someone says coilovers ride better "because the shocks and springs are made for one another." Most of the 'custom' spring rates you get are nothing special. Just swapped springs on the same shock. Anyways before I blabber on any longer, I just want to make a point that getting coilovers isn't always a solution to your ride quality woes. I only mention this because it's usually one of the first suggestions on this forum whenever someone doesn't like their spring/shock combo.
01-22-11, 03:20 PM
#39
Best thing to do is to start at full /closedstiff and go down from there, that way you know all 4 shocks have started from the "closed" position.
Damping settings are a personal preference thing and are best suited to you and how you drive. I tell people to start in the mniddle and go from there. That way you know if you want it sitffer or softer.
Try setting them to something like 15/17, as in clicks down from full closed/stiff.
If they feel "bouncy" add more rebound in. Also, tires can play a huge roll in "bounciness" check your air pressure and make sure you have enough.
Damping settings are a personal preference thing and are best suited to you and how you drive. I tell people to start in the mniddle and go from there. That way you know if you want it sitffer or softer.
Try setting them to something like 15/17, as in clicks down from full closed/stiff.
If they feel "bouncy" add more rebound in. Also, tires can play a huge roll in "bounciness" check your air pressure and make sure you have enough.
01-28-11, 06:04 AM
#41
Rookie
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Valdosta, Ga
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm thinking about buying them. Any advice on them? I'm a coilover newb and it seems people are referring to the numbers differently from the instructions on the coilovers. I'm used to 0 being soft and highest number being stiff so it's throwing me off. Is there a possibility that the op had too much preload in the springs causing it to be too bouncy? Is there anyone here that would be willing to measure their settings in mm's? I could then copy those settings other than the height that I'm going to set mine at. It would be nice to have numbers in mm's that would let me know where to set the height at before I put them on the car.
01-28-11, 07:02 AM
#42
preload is suggested at 3-5mm. the numbers for the dampening doesnt really matter because the ***** tell you which way is soft and hard. turn the **** all the way to soft then work your way up to around 10 in the front and 8 in the rear and use that as a starting point
01-28-11, 07:54 AM
#43
Preload doesn't make your car bouncy unless your springs are crap and not truly linear (ie progressive), then the springs can become too stiff and your system will be considered underdamped.
As far as how much preload you need, it depends on your car. Realistically, no two cars will have identical preload, but because most people don't care about setting up their coilovers properly, they just go with 3mm or whatever the heck that's in the manual.
01-28-11, 09:18 AM
#44
Rookie
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Valdosta, Ga
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Preload doesn't make your car bouncy unless your springs are crap and not truly linear (ie progressive), then the springs can become too stiff and your system will be considered underdamped.
As far as how much preload you need, it depends on your car. Realistically, no two cars will have identical preload, but because most people don't care about setting up their coilovers properly, they just go with 3mm or whatever the heck that's in the manual.
As far as how much preload you need, it depends on your car. Realistically, no two cars will have identical preload, but because most people don't care about setting up their coilovers properly, they just go with 3mm or whatever the heck that's in the manual.
Well that must be the case with my husbands buddy club n+'s b/c if he adds much preload to the rear springs, they become very "bumpy, bouncy, whatever" and it's not fun to drive. Disclaimer: different car.
I want to set mine up correctly. I would prefer to have them actually cornerbalanced; however, it's something that I doubt I can find in my town. Any tips on setting them up as far as measurements to begin with? I have the 10/12 for the dampning to start with, but what about springs? Should I go with less than 3mm or just start there?
01-28-11, 10:06 AM
#45
If he added too much preload, he might not have had enough travel for rebound either. The piston could have been hitting the top of the shock body.
San Antonio is a big city. I'm sure there has to be at least one shop out there that can cornerbalance. How much preload you need depends on many factor. There are no magical answers, but generally it's not a bad thing to start out with the piston in the middle of the shock body. 50/50 ratio seems like a good place to start. If your piston is below that point with the full weight in the car and drive, then add some preload. This is why the 3-5mm rule is thrown out the window as soon as you move onto a different spring rate.
Anyways if tracking is not the number one priority, then I wouldn't worry too much about preload unless it's obvious that you need to change it.
San Antonio is a big city. I'm sure there has to be at least one shop out there that can cornerbalance. How much preload you need depends on many factor. There are no magical answers, but generally it's not a bad thing to start out with the piston in the middle of the shock body. 50/50 ratio seems like a good place to start. If your piston is below that point with the full weight in the car and drive, then add some preload. This is why the 3-5mm rule is thrown out the window as soon as you move onto a different spring rate.
Anyways if tracking is not the number one priority, then I wouldn't worry too much about preload unless it's obvious that you need to change it.