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beat them off with hammer, use a impact gun and wack em on till theyre all the way in, u need to get an acorn nut that has a hole and use it backwards for the install, real simple
beat them off with hammer, use a impact gun and wack em on till theyre all the way in, u need to get an acorn nut that has a hole and use it backwards for the install, real simple
You could definitely do them that way, but a "kinder" added touch might be to use a heavy piece of metal (another hammer head, a chunk of thick plate stock, a heavy dolly, etc.) to back up the hub on the backside in the area right next to the stud which you're pounding from the front. This will have two positive effects. First it will focus more of the impact energy on the stud itself; making it come out even easier, and second, it will minimize the potentially damaging side load forces you're applying to the hub and wheel bearings. Try it, it really works.
Oddly enough I replaced a rear stud today on my '95. You have to remove the caliper + rotor and beyond that its as the other folks posted. Pound out the old one, and reinstall the new stud with an open faced lug nut. I used an old axle nut under the lug nut to pull it down. It took me about 30 minutes total to accomplish this.
I used an air hammer to remove my old cross threaded stud. I'm sure the pound method works fine, but I didn't want to risk killing my wheel bearing.
You might be able to rent a stud remover/installer kit from your local Autozone for very cheap too.