Roll VS Cutting/Shaving
#1
BANNED for ripping off other members
Thread Starter
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: ny
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Roll VS Cutting/Shaving
i've read ALOT on the topic and i want to cover everything in one thread without having to read back and forth...hopefully this will assist others in the future make a better decision before making a desperate uneducated one. some say this about:
rolling
-prone to dimple fender
-less clearance
-rears are a no-no since the metal is thicker than the front ones
-paint will crack if heat gun is not used
-best tool is eastwood fender roller at $270
cutting/shaving
-more clearance for lower offset wheels
-more tool options (dremel, belt sander, angle grinder)
-not recommended to cut past the spot welds
-can comprise rigidity if cut past the mentioned welds
-easiest
-prep the area with rubberized coating for rust prevention
i am faced with this dilema as my tires (245-30-19f / 275-30-19r) are hellarubbing . i need experienced advice on what is the best solution.
example...should i cut & shave the rears and roll the fronts, do i need to heat the rear lip before cutting? what type of disc is used to cut when using an angle grinder? has anyone cut past the welds and experienced any issues/problems? do the front dimple when rolling?
i am on new coilovers and i slapped them on right out the box without making no height adjustment and all 4 tires are rubbing. i don't plan on re-using the black plastic trim so they will be tossed. your help and advice will be much appreciated
rolling
-prone to dimple fender
-less clearance
-rears are a no-no since the metal is thicker than the front ones
-paint will crack if heat gun is not used
-best tool is eastwood fender roller at $270
cutting/shaving
-more clearance for lower offset wheels
-more tool options (dremel, belt sander, angle grinder)
-not recommended to cut past the spot welds
-can comprise rigidity if cut past the mentioned welds
-easiest
-prep the area with rubberized coating for rust prevention
i am faced with this dilema as my tires (245-30-19f / 275-30-19r) are hellarubbing . i need experienced advice on what is the best solution.
example...should i cut & shave the rears and roll the fronts, do i need to heat the rear lip before cutting? what type of disc is used to cut when using an angle grinder? has anyone cut past the welds and experienced any issues/problems? do the front dimple when rolling?
i am on new coilovers and i slapped them on right out the box without making no height adjustment and all 4 tires are rubbing. i don't plan on re-using the black plastic trim so they will be tossed. your help and advice will be much appreciated
Last edited by wald.sc400; 03-29-11 at 06:19 PM.
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (3)
I cut/shaved my rear lip with 4inch dewalt angle grinder with cut off disc, I cut it down to 1mm and yes I cut spot welds and no i did not affect rigidity im running 295/30/19 in rear tucking tire on a 19x10 +30 offset rim, My fronts are 19x8.5 and are +34 offsett i ran 245/35 with no issue removing inner fender liner and I didnt touch the front fender lip at all. I now run a 235/35 and have my fender liner back in and it only rubs when i go over high speed dips in roadways and its very slight at that. GL hope it helps but I wouldnt hesitate to shave rears I would however never roll them as unless done very slowly with patients will undoubtly dimple/crack paint. I also did not use a heat gun when I shaved my rears and they came out fine paint wise. i protected metal with a coat of ospho and then paint (alpine silver as the car)
#3
BANNED for ripping off other members
Thread Starter
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: ny
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the feedback entryspeed, my fronts are also 245-30-19 with no fender liner and i rub like crazy. do you have pics of the cut? any tips you would give when cutting? i believe only a certain amount should be cut (upper contact where it actually rubs) not the entire lip.
#4
Northern California Regional Officer
iTrader: (5)
Between myself and several other of my local members who have shaved 100% of the rear lip including the welds MANY years ago.
Add up the time with this mod for all of our cars and we have about 15 years and over 150,000 miles with NO ISSUES.
As much as people can provide "OPINIONS" that shaving off the welds "WEAKENS" the car, I have seen NO DOCUMENTED evidence showing what problems would occur, on a "GS3/4". Examples of Hondas and other cars with thin sheetmetal and "stories" of welds separating without pics don't count.
There is no argument that there would be a "slight" reduction in the structural integrity by shaving off the welds, but the concern should be minimal.
With people negative cambering well beyond spec, lowering their cars Waaay below the ride height that the suspension was designed to operate and people cutting holes to clear their upper A arms from bottoming , worrying about shaving fenders would be the least of my concerns.
Add up the time with this mod for all of our cars and we have about 15 years and over 150,000 miles with NO ISSUES.
As much as people can provide "OPINIONS" that shaving off the welds "WEAKENS" the car, I have seen NO DOCUMENTED evidence showing what problems would occur, on a "GS3/4". Examples of Hondas and other cars with thin sheetmetal and "stories" of welds separating without pics don't count.
There is no argument that there would be a "slight" reduction in the structural integrity by shaving off the welds, but the concern should be minimal.
With people negative cambering well beyond spec, lowering their cars Waaay below the ride height that the suspension was designed to operate and people cutting holes to clear their upper A arms from bottoming , worrying about shaving fenders would be the least of my concerns.
#5
BANNED for ripping off other members
Thread Starter
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: ny
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good valuable info from both you guys. Seems like cutting/shaving is the best choice when dealing with rubbing issues with the 2gs. Perhaps cutting past the welds is not really a problem like rmmgs4 said since I've done plenty of reading and as of yet have not seen read or heard of rigidity issues concerning our cars when cut past welds. Like rmm said, maybe this applies to other cars with thinner metal. I now feel much safer cutting/shaving both my front and rear....now only to find someone local who has experience in doing this
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post