GSRSRT

so will a broken bearing cause the steering wheel to shake and guys like i said idk whats really the problem and why the wheel wont move freely like the other side

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Guys.

Check the following parts:

- Lower Ball Joints (need to be replaced if you see bearing grease popping out of the boot, or if its torn, hear a creaking or cracking sound, clunks, etc when turning or going over bumps)

- Outer Tie Rods (check for wear and tear, make sure no grease is around or present outside the boot. Again, creaks, clunks, etc -- replace.) They can only be removed with a pitman arm puller or ball joint removal tool.


- Inner Tie Rods (this can only be checked once your outer tie rods are removed and to check them you will need to just make sure that whichever way you move the rod part that it stays still or doesnt move once you move it) They can only be changed with ainner tie rod removal tool.

- Steering pre-tensioner (adjust this only if your steering is loose, i.e. going over bumps your steering sways in either direction immediately, too easy to turn, shaking, vibration -- search on the site for the nut to tighten, i've listed the p/n for the nut on the site as well)

- Brake pads/rotors (if when you brake you're feeling the shimmy or shake in the steering wheel or body of the car; change them out (pads and rotors) or get them (rotors) resurfaced with new pads). If the shake still appears, or is present, bleed your brakes.

- Wheel bearings (if you turn your wheels and hear anything other than the wheel spinning, grinding, etc you need new wheels bearings. hold your wheels at 10-2 and 12 and 6 and you can see what I'm talking about. or take off your wheels and try to spin and shake the hub). If you need new bearings, and dont want to spend $450+ in labor -- pep boys will press in bearings for like $40 each side if you take the spindle to them. To take off the spindle its easy - remove two lower bolts on the underside of the spindle, two on the caliper bracket to spindle and the nut that connects the upper spindle rod to the uca. The bearings -- either use OEM or timken -- nothing else. National brand bearings (can remember the p/n is timken). Advance auto has freeshipping and coupon codes. I got both bearings for $50.00 OTD with tax -- timken! Make sure you get new seals, spindle lock nut, and the rest of the parts -- pm me for more details.

When doing any of the above, make sure you get an alignment right after!

mexikan

A lot of independent part stores have a press they should be able to help you!!

GSRSRT

damnnn i jus purchased 2001 GS430 spindles, complete sets and finished installing the driver side and still a humming sound so it has to be the passenger side!, ill let you kno tomorrow if its gon and fixes the problem

JDMCelsior

iTrader: (1)

If you haven't checked already, it could also be uneven tire wear. Had this happened to me and this was the problem, front tires of course.

SocalMr2

iTrader: (1)

I had the same symptoms on my 430. If you lift up the car and spin the front wheels, it should spin freely. If not the calipers are sticking. I ended up rebuilding my calipers after the same symptoms. I assumed prior to the rebuilding that the rotors were warped, so I resurfaced them and changed the pads. A few days later the same vibration came back. I finally rebuilt the calipers and put new rotors and pads on. The problem went away.

GSRSRT

i have the loud humming noise and it has to be the bearing idk why my steering started shaking bad, it all started after i changed the breaks shocks and control arms, i also found out that the top screw was not coming out from the caliper and it was stuck in a outer position so i just replaced the hole spindle, all its left is the passenger side and then ill take it for a test drive i hope that humming go's away smh

Got0wned

iTrader: (4)

This is really good info. Thanks again for everyone's input.

GsOnDubZ

rotors man common now, everyone knows that

GSRSRT

so i just changed the passenger side spindle,i got it off a 2001 GS430 and my car is a 99 GS300 so the humming noise went away now a new problem came up my steering wheel is not straight anymore and when i drive it feels hard to make right turns and pulls towards the left! i think its the Tie rod end !!! let me know if this will correct the steering !

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

You can get the bearings taken out at any shop, and pressed in. I got all the parts for mine (pm me if you need help) and then bought some timken bearings. To get it done cheaper I took out my spindle/hub and took them to the shop.

Cost about $35 per side for removal of the bearing and pressing in.

Choritsu-shi

Something isn't right... understandably after replacing suspension parts your wheel alignment can be thrown off a bit... but it shouldn't change a whole lot. Something seems bent, maybe your old spindle was bent or the replacement one is bent. If it still shakes while braking, your lower strut bar rubber cushion is bad. On this LS diagram... the "Strut Bars" are connected from the lower suspension arm and mount forward just behind the front bumper. On the GS the "Strut Bars" are the opposite...they go towards the rear of the car.

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

so the thread starter owns a Corolla and the tags in this thread includes 400h, es350, rx300, and someone else starts talking about the spindle and a recommendation to look at the tension rod (from a LS??) arises... I'm surprised a V10 swap from a LFA wasn't recommended. I personally think it's the muffler bearing but thats just me.

but come on guys.

we all know why your steering shakes. you have a gnome living under your car and humping your car every time you brake.

Choritsu-shi

This is a GS 2nd gen forum, and you can't put 18x9 and 18x10 on a 86 Corolla. After thoroughly reading their posts I can say it's not the brake rotors, not the bearings, not the spindle, not the pitman arm... nor did anyone mention a tension rod. Understandably many of us probably are talking about the same part but just incorrectly calling it something else.

That's why I used this pic because it correctly identifies the Lexus suspension parts by their proper names and the pic was easy to find. I remember posting it on the LS forum for a similar problem... and I also didn't have a GS diagram handy.

Although since they both come from the same manufacturer and share the same components, I assumed everyone could easily understand after seeing the diagram... I'm surprised you came up with "tension rod"

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

AE86 on Watanabe 9J front, 10J rear.

AE86 on SSR Formula Mesh 15x10-15, 15x10.5-21

Also, the diagram you posted correctly identifies the name of the suspension parts...yes, but for a LS. A car with a completely different suspension setup; a car that is also equipped with air ride and like you said, the LS has the "strut bar" in the front. If you want to "correctly identifies the Lexus suspension parts by their proper names" it's actually lower control arm no.2 for the GS. and no they don't share the same components. Same engine, different chassis (hence UZS161 and UCF10/20/30/etc). I'm sure some parts can be used though (like the brake calipers).

and yes, i'm probably being the jackass on the interwebz forum pointing out that you spelled their and there wrong so i'll stop.

to the OP>
do your own search and get as much information as you can before you ask blind sighted. There is plenty of information here and there are plenty of helpful/resourceful members here. And don't ever think more post count = more correct info, b/c post count doesn't mean anything. I have 6000 posts but I bet 5000 of them are OMFGLOLWTFBBQ type comments.
On a serious note, the GS has a lug centric wheel design and many of us have found the steering to shake more when you go with aftermarket wheels and the cone type aftermarket lug nut. I think some have had luck with a hub centric ring though.
good luck.