IS250 AWD Axle Nut Size
#1
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IS250 AWD Axle Nut Size
i need to replace my axle on my AWD, not sure what the size is, saw a post on here saying it was 30mm and one on My.IS saying 32mm, just want to clarify which one it is and if its the same for my AWD
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
#4
Driver School Candidate
Lexus is250 (2006 2007 2008 2009) front axle nut
Just to confirm, this is a 12 point 30mm (a 1-3/16 socket will work perfectly also) socket.
It does not have to be a deep socket but you ABSOLUTELY will need a good lubricant and and a breaker bar and a torque wrench that is capable of 80lbs psi to re-tighten.
The bolt will stick badly over time and MUST be taken off with extreme care, if you strip or damage the nut, you will need to bring the car to a welder to completely torch off the hub bearing assembly and install a new axle arm which is very expensive.
TIP: Take your time and don't push too hard too fast.
TIP: You will also need to have the opposite tire touching the ground because the axle on one side moves the tire on the other side... the only way to make it stop is to have the opposite tire touching a surface.
TIP: Left loosens the bolt... the threads are not reversed or anything.
TIP: You do not need a hub puller, use a mallet to knock the center bolt toward the engine compartment and once it's loose, take a flathead screwdriver and pry the bearing assembly away from the dust guard little by little at each bolt hole opening. The assembly will pry off with a little patience.
TIP: Use caliper grease for each and every hole so that the bolts are not so hard to remove should you need to get back into this area.
TIP: Tighten the caliper bolts to 40lbs psi (use torque wrench)
TIP: Tighten the bolts for the caliper housing and the hub assembly at 60lbs psi (use torque wrench)
TIP: Tighten the center axle bolt to 80lbs psi (use torque wrench)
TIP: Expect this project to take approximately 3 hours (assuming nothing dramatically bad happens during the replacement).
Still need help?: Contact me via email (slipdipidis@gmail.com) with your question, I'll do my best to reply with an answer. (not an instant help option... it may take me a day to see the email and reply).
Good luck.
It does not have to be a deep socket but you ABSOLUTELY will need a good lubricant and and a breaker bar and a torque wrench that is capable of 80lbs psi to re-tighten.
The bolt will stick badly over time and MUST be taken off with extreme care, if you strip or damage the nut, you will need to bring the car to a welder to completely torch off the hub bearing assembly and install a new axle arm which is very expensive.
TIP: Take your time and don't push too hard too fast.
TIP: You will also need to have the opposite tire touching the ground because the axle on one side moves the tire on the other side... the only way to make it stop is to have the opposite tire touching a surface.
TIP: Left loosens the bolt... the threads are not reversed or anything.
TIP: You do not need a hub puller, use a mallet to knock the center bolt toward the engine compartment and once it's loose, take a flathead screwdriver and pry the bearing assembly away from the dust guard little by little at each bolt hole opening. The assembly will pry off with a little patience.
TIP: Use caliper grease for each and every hole so that the bolts are not so hard to remove should you need to get back into this area.
TIP: Tighten the caliper bolts to 40lbs psi (use torque wrench)
TIP: Tighten the bolts for the caliper housing and the hub assembly at 60lbs psi (use torque wrench)
TIP: Tighten the center axle bolt to 80lbs psi (use torque wrench)
TIP: Expect this project to take approximately 3 hours (assuming nothing dramatically bad happens during the replacement).
Still need help?: Contact me via email (slipdipidis@gmail.com) with your question, I'll do my best to reply with an answer. (not an instant help option... it may take me a day to see the email and reply).
Good luck.
Last edited by slipdip; 10-12-13 at 02:06 PM. Reason: update answer
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