Couldn't have said it better myself. Absolutely no need to turn a smooth rotor just because you are installing new pads.

 

So I'm curious if my steering wheel is shaking just ever slightly and my car jolts forward as it comes to a stop where it feels like the brakes grab then release and the frequentcy of it occurs slower and less frequent as I come to the stop.
Is that my pads?
In the past I've always just shaved some of the rotor off.
I realize here in florida that in the summer it is extremely hot plus I use to always put my emergency brake on. Even after a hard run at the track cause it was second nature and I heard that could warp the rotor doing that. So I stopped putting my emergency brake on.

 

Your rotors are warped. Usually, if you feel it in the steering wheel, it's the fronts. The emergency brake won't warp the rotors.

 

Warped rotors are largely a myth... an excuse from shops who don't understand what's really wrong...apart from improper install or defective parts it doesn't happen... what causes the vibration usually felt in the steering wheel isn't "warped rotors" it's uneven pad transfer. See here for why it happens, why it's NOT "warping", and how to prevent it in the first place-

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

Kurtz, since it's not the rotors. How do I fix my issue now?
I read the link and it didn't really mention how to fix if you currently have the issue. I presume new pads?
Then once I get the pads and install at that point I need to bed them in correctly.

 

From my track day experience, never apply the parking or regular brake at stop (red light in daily driving case) when the rotors and pads are hot. Otherwise, brake pad material might be transferred to the rotors. That will cause uneven pad transfer and feel like the rotors are warped. I always use Autozone rotors for my Miata, never had any problem with appropriate usage.

As for vibration, you might want to flush the brake fluid. There might be trapped air inside the line. Remember, air is a compressible fluid.

 

IS uses a drum-style parking brake, so that wouldn't cause much issue with applying the regular brakes.

Jeff

 

So since my rotors are not jacked up and I have uneven pad transfer

This may be my cure...

Depending upon the friction compound, easy use of the brakes for an extended period may lead to the removal of the transfer layer on the discs by the abrasive action of the pads. When we are going to exercise a car that has seen easy brake use for a while, a partial re-bedding process will prevent uneven pick up.

& or I may also need to do this:

"The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason."

Thanks prankster for the tip

 

Drum in the rear right Jeff? So when I apply emergency brakes when Im parked on a hill it only clamps the rear drum?

 

It's a drum-in-hat style, so the parking brake shoes clamp the inside of the rear rotor, you are correct, just the rear.

Jeff