tjschraf

Hey guys,

I really apologize if this has been asked before but from what I have read it hasn't. I just ordered new break pads for my 2006 IS 350 with 24k miles and I am going to be putting them on this weekend. I ordered them off of Sewell and got the low dust pads, like all of you have recommended. I do not know much about pads and was wondering if there is some kind of break in process or something that I should keep in mind? My friend bought ceramic pads for his GTO and was supposed to heat them up or something (don't really remember what it was) to work their best. I am just wondering if there is something I should do to make sure they last and are good.

And also, since so many people are complaining about their nav screens breaking, I was wondering if (in the event) mine breaks, whether or not the newer nav screens fit in there interchangeably?

dackp143

iTrader: (3)

As far as break in... I GRACEFULLY go from 10-0mph, 30-0mph, 45-0mph, 60-0mph... and then in a hard fashion I go from 60-0mph by hitting the breaks with a little force.. Just changed my breaks this past weekend. Posi Quiets are THE BOMB

WIZARD1325

iTrader: (1)

shoot and here i thought it was 300miles lol

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

No this isn't how you bed new pads.

Read, learn, understand.

XhyDra

iTrader: (8)

I never really understood how Lexus approved to go from a high friction compound to a low friction compound without first prepping the rotors. See what happens is when you install new brake rotors and pads what you want to do is mate the surfaces of each other so there is a transfer layer of pad material onto the brake rotor. This helps prevent squealing brakes (not related to shims), extends the life of the brakes and allows for braking to always be at its best.

Anyone that knows anything about brakes knows that when you switch pads to a different compound you either resurface the rotor or use garnet paper to sand off the old pads transfer film. So the surface is ready for the new compound. Some high friction pads do not need this because they have enough friction to scrub off the old pad material with a proper bedding procedure. Then again not many on this forum use the living hell out of their brakes to be able to tell what not doing that causes.

In any case, for these softer compound pads that seem to heat up quite easily you can do 4-5 hard 40mph to 5mph without coming to a complete stop or engaging ABS, enough force to slow the car down but just before ABS kicks in. Do this consecutively because you want to heat up the pads so there is film transferring over. And you can also top it off with two 60mph to 10mph, after that do not, I repeat do NOT come to a complete stop, drive around lightly using the brakes if needed for at least 15min to let them cool down, it's best to do this on an empty area at night so you can drive around without stopping. Stopping will cause your brake pads to leave an uneven transfer film on the rotor that will result in an imprint on the surface of the rotor, not good. You can expect vibrations down the road from that.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Not at all true. I go from street to track and back routinely and never, EVER, resurface or scrub my rotors. Light use will scrub off the previous compound, so will following a good bedding procedure.

More reading required.

And yes, I do think I use the brakes sufficiently to comment on this. See rotor below:

XhyDra

iTrader: (8)

I'm referring going from heavier compounds to soft compounds (posi quiet) for example, that sometimes do not mate well. In some cases, it's not always the case, but it can happen. I've read about this happening on some Subaru forums, the softer compound pads don't build enough heat to remove the higher friction pad deposits, resulting in TV down the road.

Also I know you drive the hell out of your brakes Lance, you're one of the few, next to me and a few others, I go through brakes fast

dackp143

iTrader: (3)

Well obviously you shouldn't STOP in the middle of the road....("The rotor and the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface")...so let me update my information so the no common sense police don't write any fines.

The link states, "The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface." In other words try from 10-5mph, 30-5mph, 45-5mph, 60-5mph... and then in a hard fashion I go from 60-10mph by hitting the breaks with a little force. As lobuxracer's info says, heat the pad and rotor surface up. I would start low in case you screwed up the brakes line and some how (though almost impossible) got some kind of air in the brake lines. You don't want to be going 80 at first and have no brakes :O

This isn't rocket science. I have broke in breaks on my IS350, IS300, S2000, M3, and 550i without any problems over any period of time. Good luck

XhyDra

iTrader: (8)

The best way to heat up pads is to drive at normal speed and tap the brakes lightly a few times while driving at speed this does a better job than slowing down till you can bed them in right.