lyonkster

Mike,

Is there a chance that you are using tight tolerance spherical bearings which may not be compatible with perhaps looser tolerances that Lexus expected in their OEM spherical bushings? I'm thinking that if Lexus bores had a relatively wide tolerance range, you may be over-constrained in trying to use a tight tolerance spherical bearing without it being either too tight or too loose in some vehicles. Just a thought.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

the spherical bearings are precision but we can make adjustments so that regardless of tolerance we do not compress the bearing too much. Its the stackup between our cup and the bearing. We just need to add a relief, more machining time.

lyonkster

Understood. I was just wondering if the Lexus OEM bores had loose tolerances - we see how some folks (like me) had no trouble pressing the factory bushings in and out, while others needed an act of congress to get them in and out. As I recall, spherical bearing OD's need a fairly precise bore to be pressed into, so that may be the source of the problem here.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

it is the difference between using a grease packed bearing vs a spherical bearing with a teflon liner which is less tolerant of compression forces. More of a tolerance stackup issue with two machined parts vs a single as well.
I will get the design modified and send out replacements for anyone having the issue.

lyonkster

That was my point, and may explain why you are having to rework these for some folks.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

possible to get replacements Mike before i install so that way when im on the rack if i run into this, i can switch the cups with no down time and if i dont need them, send them back?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

yes absolutely Brian. Will shoot you a PM.
So I ran through 10 cups today on the lathe and it looks like the ID tolerance was greater than OD and I had 4 that removed about 0.005 off the ID and 5-6 that ranged in just scrapping the zinc coating to not touching at all. We will go through our remaining stock and clean up things on the bearing interface so that it is easy to press in and the bearing will move freely. I verified the fitment in our test knuckle again and movement was as it should be. The initial tested cups must have just been in the low range of tolerance so we will keep things closer on final inspection. The larger variable is the zinc plating which looks like it was built up on the inner diameter in addition to machining tolerances. I would rather be on the small side and back fill with 620 retaining compound then on the tight side and cause squeaking. In any case I think this will be a good solution to verify everyone that we ship from here on out.

Mike

DriftChris

I had a question about this part [FIGS]. I just ordered these and the part I needed was this.


IS3002GGS-KNUCK-FIGSSPH

This is a photo of another members part they received from this thread.



I believe it is the same part. The one I have looks significantly different and I wanted to know if it is an improvement over the original part before I start taking stuff apart again. This is the one I received.





Old and New side by side. This is what your Axle Carrier Bushing will look like after extreme wear and your wheel will go negative on the camber and if you go over a bump hard enough you will destroy your wheel bearing. Also being replaced so this is an important part lol



So is my part the same as others that have received or Mike do I have the wrong part?

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

There should have been some stainless spacers included, please check the package. If not let me know and we will send them out.

BTW the modifications the bearing sleaves have proven to work well and three customers now have confirmed that they function properly. We will continue this check moving forward. Aurora is backordered on the bearings at this point so we will be working to come up with alternate sources and some other options.
Mike
Mike

repugnante

Didn't know this had an effect on the wheel bearings.

BayAreaLex

First, very interesting thread and it's great that we have a place like this to compare symptoms and identify solutions (although I have to say, when I was in the Mustang/BMW world, we spent most of our time getting our cars to accelerate faster, handle better, and stop in less distance. Here in the Lexus world, it seems like all we do is diagnose suspension clunks, lol )

This thread caught my eye because I have been trying to diagnose a rear noise in my 2001 GS430 w/ Megan LP coilovers. When I go over small bumps or "low amplitude" imperfections in the road at low speed, I hear this popcorn popping/ratting sound coming mostly from my passenger side rear. I thought it was coilover related (and it may be still) but watching the OPs video, it's worth a look at those carrier/knuckle bushings as well as the track-link bushings while I am in there.

I have couple questions/comments:

1.) I notice that Carson carries the polyurethane track-link bushings (ADUS-690). Does anyone sell a stock replacement of this bushing? I like to limit how much poly I use on a daily driver.
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=3322

2.) In order to diagnose the carrier/knuckle bearings as the culprit of my problem (as was for the OP), I guess I can jack up the car, grab the rear wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, and give it a good shake while someone else is looking for play in that bearing.

3.) I'm interested to know how many miles you guys have on these (what are apparently China-made) carrier/knuckle bushings from New Zealand and Ireland that are being sold on ebay?


That *might* be related to the differential bushings but what you are describing is classic split motor/tranny mount symptoms. When my driver side motor mount was split, if I went WOT from a stop-light, I'd get a violent jerk/thud coming from the differential as the whipping motor transferred energy to the back of the drive-line. It was so counter-intuitive because I was convinced that the problem was from the rear of the car. Replacement motor mounts solved the problem.


handogg, so did the replacement carrier/knuckle bearings solve your problem? Low speed pop/clunking is exactly what I am experiencing.

This thread is giving me some hope.

Thanks,

Luke

Blanco

iTrader: (8)

Luke,

Here's the link where I got my track link bushings. These were visually identical to the stock bushings, and work perfectly. Shipping seemed fast for something coming from overseas.

BayAreaLex

Excellent, thank you sir. Am I correct to assume that these bushings must be pressed in the same manner as the carrier/knuckle bushings?

And does this rhd vendor also carry the carrier/knuckle bushings or would I have to go through New Zealand or Ireland on ebay for those?

Blanco

iTrader: (8)

Yes, pressed in the same way, allthough the brake rotor shield can get in the way. I THINK they carry the axle carrier bushing, but it's not a stock piece. They're calling it a rear axle pillow joint/bushing. Pics look identical to what FIGS sells. Price seems higher too.

To get the stock style axle bushings, the only place I know to get them is from that shop in NZ.

tiger4life

iTrader: (16)

I don't think the ireland guy sells them on ebay anymore. You might have to try nz or rhd. I bought my first set from the ireland guy. I messed up one while installing. Found another set in the 2gs classified. Used one and sold the other in the classifieds.