DIY - Rear Axle Carrier (Knuckle) Bushing Replacement
#256
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Those with the old mattress sound are having issues with the bushing on the other side of the arm (the one closest to the differential). The metal on metal sound is the bushing on the knuckle (close to the hub). That knuckle bushing must be metal because it takes up plenty of load. Plenty. There are those on here who got the two confused and threw poly bushings where the knuckle is (very big mistake).
Last edited by BayAreaLex; 03-31-13 at 08:22 AM.
#257
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BTW, I was having the exact same issue as you. Popcorn popping sound in the rear. Clearly heard at low speeds. Unnoticeable at high speeds. However at high speeds, the rear wandered a bit. The average Joe probably wouldn't have noticed the wandering but my **** self certainly noticed it. That made me confirm that that knuckle bushing is way more important than I had thought. After replacing all of the suspension pieces on my car, that bushing fully exposed itself. The noise got so irritating, that when driving down the street, folks can hear it and turn their heads. Very embarrassing.
Last edited by repugnante; 03-31-13 at 07:47 PM.
#258
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100% spot on.
I wonder what the typical life of these spherical bushings is. On my car after 95K miles both sides are toast. Which bushings (and from where) did you use for replacement?
I wonder what the typical life of these spherical bushings is. On my car after 95K miles both sides are toast. Which bushings (and from where) did you use for replacement?
#259
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I'm clueless on the lifespan. But I can tell you that when I first purchased the car (about 80k) I could've sworn I heard that clanking sound back there. But the entire suspension was so worn out, I just figured it was one of the obvious parts that wear out overtime. It was faint back then, got progressively louder up until this morning when I replaced them. Now that I think of it, I probably should've gone with Figs because this bushing looks like it is more than just wear item.
There is a shop not far from me that specializes in Toyota/Lexus vehicles. I see them quite frequently and are like my personal guru's for Lexus advice. Last week I explained the problem to the mechanic and after a few words he immediately knew what I was referring too. This is a very common part that goes bad on the IS's as he's replaced these before many times but never on a GS. He agreed along with most of us here that we share the same knuckle as the IS. Fortunately, he had a set of these bushings brand new for an IS that a guy never came back for and sold them to me for $40. I don't know what brand they are, but they are virtually identical to what came off of the car.
There is a shop not far from me that specializes in Toyota/Lexus vehicles. I see them quite frequently and are like my personal guru's for Lexus advice. Last week I explained the problem to the mechanic and after a few words he immediately knew what I was referring too. This is a very common part that goes bad on the IS's as he's replaced these before many times but never on a GS. He agreed along with most of us here that we share the same knuckle as the IS. Fortunately, he had a set of these bushings brand new for an IS that a guy never came back for and sold them to me for $40. I don't know what brand they are, but they are virtually identical to what came off of the car.
#260
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Oh and many, many thanks to Leon (OP) for providing the "light bulb" to this problem. Please sticky this thread. Many others are going to chime in with this exact same problem. Fortunately, the car doesn't collapse when these fail but in my opinion the knuckle bushing is equally as important.....
#263
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Here is a question for the suspension gurus.
If the carrier/knuckle bushing is shot, will that wheel tend to camber positive or negative?
The reason I ask is because my passenger side tire rubs on the outer fender on large dips (the side with the shot carrier/knuckle bushing) while the other side doesn't, which suggests that it would camber positive? Wonder if the rubbing is related to the bad bushing.
If the carrier/knuckle bushing is shot, will that wheel tend to camber positive or negative?
The reason I ask is because my passenger side tire rubs on the outer fender on large dips (the side with the shot carrier/knuckle bushing) while the other side doesn't, which suggests that it would camber positive? Wonder if the rubbing is related to the bad bushing.
Last edited by BayAreaLex; 03-31-13 at 09:17 PM.
#264
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Gold star if someone can identify a vendor who has these in stock in the USA.
I just ordered mine from Ireland (eBay).
Last edited by BayAreaLex; 04-01-13 at 02:12 PM.
#266
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I'm going to get my hands on the autozone ball-joint press: #27023 Hopefully this tool will work like a charm and is appropriately sized.
#267
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I used that ball joint press kit on one side... I dont recommend it. Its really hard to do correctly because the cups dont sit flush against the knuckle and it was really hard to do without removing the entire knuckle. If you want the easiest way to do it. (Definately more time consuming but worth it.) Remove the whole carrier assembly and take it to a machine shop to have them pressed in. Or get that expensive Balljoint press kit.
I did the passengers side with the kit from autozone it was a nightmare and I had to remove the other side to do a wheel bearing anyway. Took the drivers side to a machine shop to press in the wheel bearing and the bushing 65$ and painless and it was done correctly within a day.
Also I am vouching for the Figs Sphericals being the best solution instead of getting OEM or OEM comparable. Day and night difference from New to old to FIGS replacement. Also thanks for the great customer service Mike.
I did the passengers side with the kit from autozone it was a nightmare and I had to remove the other side to do a wheel bearing anyway. Took the drivers side to a machine shop to press in the wheel bearing and the bushing 65$ and painless and it was done correctly within a day.
Also I am vouching for the Figs Sphericals being the best solution instead of getting OEM or OEM comparable. Day and night difference from New to old to FIGS replacement. Also thanks for the great customer service Mike.
#268
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I used that ball joint press kit on one side... I dont recommend it. Its really hard to do correctly because the cups dont sit flush against the knuckle and it was really hard to do without removing the entire knuckle. If you want the easiest way to do it. (Definately more time consuming but worth it.) Remove the whole carrier assembly and take it to a machine shop to have them pressed in. Or get that expensive Balljoint press kit.
I did the passengers side with the kit from autozone it was a nightmare and I had to remove the other side to do a wheel bearing anyway. Took the drivers side to a machine shop to press in the wheel bearing and the bushing 65$ and painless and it was done correctly within a day.
Also I am vouching for the Figs Sphericals being the best solution instead of getting OEM or OEM comparable. Day and night difference from New to old to FIGS replacement. Also thanks for the great customer service Mike.
I did the passengers side with the kit from autozone it was a nightmare and I had to remove the other side to do a wheel bearing anyway. Took the drivers side to a machine shop to press in the wheel bearing and the bushing 65$ and painless and it was done correctly within a day.
Also I am vouching for the Figs Sphericals being the best solution instead of getting OEM or OEM comparable. Day and night difference from New to old to FIGS replacement. Also thanks for the great customer service Mike.
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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#269
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Figs, though I went with the OEM type bushing, I'm still considering yours since these tend to have a habit of wearing out early and yours appears to be rock solid enough to last for years and years. I noticed that I couldn't press the OEM ones in by the inner sleeve. Would that be the case with yours as well?
#270
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Figs, though I went with the OEM type bushing, I'm still considering yours since these tend to have a habit of wearing out early and yours appears to be rock solid enough to last for years and years. I noticed that I couldn't press the OEM ones in by the inner sleeve. Would that be the case with yours as well?
__________________
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
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